ausubaru92

I havent yet had a wideband installed on an EA82t. I did upgrade the 1 wire non heated sensor to a 3 wire heated sensor though when I had my narrowband gauge on the dash I have a wideband in the drawer beside me I will use when tuning my Speeduino ECU. It has a "simulated narrowband" output that you can input to the ECU to provide factory style closed loop fuelling. Given that stoichiometric a/f ratio for propane is 15.7:1, you will have to adjust or account for your display and aim for slightly lean when tuning your mixer

First of all you need to post some pictures. What issues are you having getting it to run?

Can you post some info on the gas adjuster?\ If you dont need the throttle switch, the direction of rotation doesnt really matter. Just swap the 2 outermost wires so that ground is at the closed throttle side and your 5v is on the open throttle side. What is the 12v to 5v converter for?

Is this the 4 pin you are looking for? Its from an EJ22 but im pretty sure its very similar except for the direction of rotation.

I was talking to Nncoolg's dad yesterday and he said he got gen3 heads from the US years ago. Are these still available and how much?

There should also be a brown relay with 6 wires, this is the main ignition/ power to ecu, injectors and coils

Yep thats exactly what I did (machine some of the teeth out of the centre of the gear) Didnt consider swapping the selectors. I left the input shaft out like that but thats as far as I got Jono, its hard to explain without seeing the wires you have at each switch (I assume it was an existing 2 way switch)

How different is the EJ centre diff? Why not upgrade and add an EJ rear housing and you gain the viscous LSD centre

Here I am,... but Im pretty green when it comes to playing with transmissions. Ive swapped the EJ stuff into my EA case, half assembled it waiting for a paint pen to check the backlash. I then have to pull it apart, seal the halves and put it back together properly I didnt pull the selectors out One problem I did run into was that the input shaft bearing housings are different, so I had to machine a few mm of the splines of the EA input shaft so I could assemble the EJ dual range gears onto it.

EZ30

Was going to run a Wolf until tonight, starting to think Speeduino might be a better choice. Will still be sticking with the "plugin to the WRX loom" theme though

What about something like Megasquirt, Speedunio or something similar controlling either the SPFI throttle injector or get someone to machine a pair of injector bosses into the ends of the carby manifold just before the heads. They use off the shelf sensors for IAT, coolant and absolute pressure (no air flow meter) and you could even use the carby distributor as the crank angle sensor (as injection wont need to be sequential)

I think there is a nut to undo from the top, somewhere under the rear seat

I have a part time 5sp and an ej box in pieces on my shed floor. will see if i can get photos tomorrow

Back to the EA82T for a couple of reasons.... 1. Club rego with original engine 2. I wanted to do something different, I have a few things to try on the old EA. 3. I'll probably crash or loose my license with an EJ20 Im running my EA82T on the EJ20G loom via a EJ20G plug in Wolf3d (which I'll configure to run an EA82T) so if I ever need to go back to an EJ, I just pull the engine and drop in another EJ20G and plug in a standard WRX ecu and drive it

My silver RX turbo. Gone back to EA82T, wolf3d ecu, distributor delete (wasted spark coil pack) and an intercooler of some sort. Ive also swapped some bits between gearboxes to run EJ dual range gearset with viscous centre diff in the EA casing Once I get it driving I will do a better flowing up-pipe, TD04 and cam regrind to make it a bit more rev happy

No he is going to sell me the spinder,.... arent you Jono. AUSubaru was working yesterday but down today.

Can you find ecu plugs off another car that has has the same type pins and nick the pins out of it? Vehicle speed sensor can be done with a magnetic hall sensor and a magnet glued to the tailshaft

Would need to know the number of teeth on the gears they mesh with to work it out

Looking good Jono, shame to waste a good spider manifold though You havent been on AUSubaru for a while Gannon

The 4EAT of the OBD1 style is a different control system to the later 'Series 2 4EAT'. If you are using a series 2 box, you will need the series 2 TCU Torque control just sent a signal from the TCU to the ECU to reduce timing momentarily while the transmission changes gear. Will work fine without it. The AT diagnostics signal is part of the OBD2 communication system, not required for normal operation. As for not locking up, the TPS on some early models was reversed to later models, maybe you will need to invert the signal from the TPS to the TCM

Ok, my next biggest hurdle is to get it posted to Australia. I emailed USA radiators but havent got a reply Anyone have any suggestions?

Hi Been a long time since ive posted on this forum because i had sold my turbo wagon. I have since bought an RX sedan which will very soon have an EJ20G in it. I am in search of a radiator and i had an idea. If i were to buy a dual core radiator from the states (they are un-obtainable in Australia) and get it shipped here. As long as it has brass end tanks, i could get the inlet/outlets removed and replaced with larger EJ sized ones. Does this seem feasible to you?

You are right. I set the duty cycle meter up to display the duty cycle backwards as it makes it easier to interpret the data. So i explained the operation of the solenoid to match the readings in the video. The manual AWD use a mechanical centre diff because its cheap and effective. And because the manual gearbox doesnt have a high pressure oil supply like the automatics do. As for the STI (which i assume you mean the DCCD gearbox) They use a planetary centre diff like the normal manual, but it has a mismatched ratio to give it a 35/65 front/rear bias.It has a series of clutch plates that are actuated by an electric solenoid to behave like a LSD with a variable lock between 35/65 open and 50/50 locked. (think of the RX FT4WD 5speed, it has a 50/50 open diff, that can be switched to 50/50 locked, except it only has 2 modes of operation, the DCCD is variable) The DCCD control unit uses throttle, brake and G force sensors to control the clutch when in auto mode, or several stages of set lock can be applied when the driver places the DCCD knob in manual mode. The VTD (variable torque distribution) auto, uses a very similar system to the STI above, only it uses oil pressure to control the centre diff instead of the electric solenoid.

That run was tested on bitumen. I found no difference between 1, 2, 3 and D That display was measuring duty cycle. So it is the ratio of on and off periods. 0% duty cycle would mean zero pressure to the MPT and thus a torque split of 100% front and 0% rear. 50% duty cycle means there half pressure to the MPT and a torque split would be 75% front and 25% rear. 100% duty cycle will give full pressure to the MPT and a torque split of 50 50 The TCU MPT output is mostly related to throttle position, but sudden changes in wheel speed (loss of traction) quickly sees a rise in MPT output. Yes the lowest default is 30% (which gives a front/rear torque split of 85/15) Full throttle gives around 70% ( front/rear torque split of 65/35)and if there is wheelspin detected, it jumps as high as 97% (almost 50 50 split) I took it for a drive on gravel, but didnt record it. I could see the TCU applying more pressure because of wheelspin, even though i could not feel the wheels spinning. The TCU is very quick and quite clever. Subaru obviously put a lot of time into programming it.