Joey Joe

That page is gone in my manual. Cant find it in the search either, anyone point me to a thread or lay it out for me.

I think im goin with rock auto, should I get the set????? or just the individual and get the rest of the stuff like cam carrier o rings, and valve cover lining that I will need from NAPA. I remember the last kit I got for head gaskets came with a bunch of stuff I didnt use. Thanks

Looking for where to get some fel-pro pt permatorque head gaskets for my 87 GL. All I can find is OEM . Thank You

Should be enough info to get it fixed

The button is broken and I broke a wire off so my plan is to re wire it to a switch button but I cant tell which ones are ground and positive and negative there are three wires red yellow and white. Any one know

Got my camera stolen and need to make the fold up hatch in the back of my GL wagon locking. I am speaking of the folding up droor right on the trunk bed of the Wagons. I was thinking of putting an eye bolt up through the folding droor and then using a gym locker. Has anyone done this if so any suggestions.

There is definately zero oil and coolant coming out of the exhaust so wouldnt this rule out the head gasket or heads being the problem. The smoke comes out right around the heat sheild and under/around the turbo but definately not from the engine. There werent any cracks like that on the heads and the engine has never even come close to overheating. Hoses were all new and the turbo was used when put on and smoked right from the get go, thats why I tried this new one that is more than likely bad cuz it dont run anymore.

When I hear the knocking and the turbo light comes on the engine definately gets power for during that time

90 Loyale, turbo with a bran new headgasket, 20 miles on it. So the after the head gasket, which was definately the major problem, their is still smoke burning off the from all around and on the turbo but their is no sign of anything irregular coming out the exhaust so the head gasket is fixed. I had another turbo that came with my japanese import engine rated at less than 60K so I figured it'd be fun to throw it on and see if it fixed the problem. Well it runs awful and barely idles and smokes alot when I rev it at full temp and sparks were flying out the exhaust. Periodically the turbo light comes on (which never used to on the old turbo) and a sudden increase in power and a loud knock coming from the turbo and then the turbo dies and it looses almost all power all within 2 seconds. It is extremely underpowered and I know its the turbos fault.......Any suggestions on if this new turbo has potential or is it worthless. I will probably just throw the old one back on and smoke it up for a while. PS the pcv system looks fairly clean.

So I did my head gasket on my 90 loyale turbo and it went very smoothly, everything looked as it should, cept there were weird minor scratches in a couple of the cylinders. I put it all together and fired her up and it runs great, quieter and smoother than before but I am still loosing coolant, a lot less than before though. I checked the piston that definately leaked before and found no sign of coolant in the cylinder( I stuck a paper towel in and rubbed it all around and looked in with a flash light...no coolant). No coolant in the oil or vice versa. I am hoping the problem is in the turbo cuz I have always been suspicious that it leaked oil internally. What are some of my options to finding out what the problem is. Thank You Joe

I couldnt find any write up on the head gasket on miles fox's page just pictures.

Its a 90 loyale turbo. I need the torque specifications for the head and cam ect ect. I am amazed that I can't find this in the USRM, maybe I am blind.

There is plenty of room to do the head gasket without pulling the engine. I would never dream of pulling it unless I was planning on rebuilding the whole thing.

I have not, so maybe I should....................................I was just going to tear into it, but now I think I will compression test it.

I am diving into a head gasket replacement..... coolant leaving the system, over heating, oil and water are mixing in both systems and I have bubbles coming out the coolant over flow tank, and water in the oil, Oh yeah this engine has less than 70k original miles, so I have cold feet about this head gasket diagnosis. When I pulled the turbo to intake section off there was tons of milky coolant water around the edges(meaning coolant is going right into the intake through the turbo?). It may be a side effect of the blown head gasket (since the turbo runs off exhaust) but I do not know how the turbo relates to the engine, it seems weird that their would be a lot of dirty coolant and water in the turbo to intake pipe. I have not had this sympyom before, and I have done a head gasket. I am wondering if this could be an internal turbo problem, and not a head gasket????? My question is, is it normal for coolant and oil to be in the turbo to intake section when their is a head gasket blown, or does this maybe sugest that the turbo is f'ed.

I am diving into a head gasket replacement..... coolant leaving the system, over heating, oil and water are mixing in both systems and I have bubbles coming out the coolant over flow tank, and water in the oil, Oh yeah this engine has less than 70k original miles, so I have cold feet about this head gasket diagnosis. When I pulled the turbo to intake section off there was tons of milky coolant water around the edges(meaning coolant is going right into the intake through the turbo). It may be a side effect of the blown head gasket (since the turbo runs off exhaust) but I do not know how the turbo relates to the engine, it seems weird that their would be a lot of dirty coolant and water in the turbo to intake pipe and I have not had this sympyom, before, and I have done a head gasket. I am wondering if this could be an internal turbo problem, and not a head gasket?????

Okay, Im loosing coolant, over heating, oil in coolant (coolant is merky brown) , water in oil( the oil looks like latte and there is traces of white goo around oil cap and on the dip stick), bubbles coming up the coolant run off tank, umm what else......... I am about 99 percent sure its head gasket, IM not even going to do a compression test I am just going to replace them, unless people think that I should do a compression test to make sure. Thank Joe

I bought this engine from a japanese import company. It was rated at 40 - 50 k original miles, compression and leak down tests, so this engine should be new. I put 15k on it and it has run perfect. Great oil pressure perfect temp, I didnt let the temp gauge get anywhere near the danger zone and still havent. A few things on my mind are............ The engine runs horribly when warmed and full of coolant(lots of water going through engine), means water may be fouling up the combustion stroke. Does this tell anything about where the water may be leaking through? When I drove it last (and up until that last drive) the coolant level has stayed perfect for 6 to 7 months. When I picked it up from the shop, it started smoking, then I noticed power was lacking, then it didnt take more than 15 minutes for me to see the temp needle rising. I am not in denial about my head gasket, I have done one before, it just seems really weird.

So when I took it for a ride it started to get hot, which it has never done since I oput the engine in the car 8 months ago. It has always run under half way and not once gotten hot, so it is most likely water in my oil. When the cooling system is full it runs horribly, it wouldnt even idle. As time went on it started to run better as it heated up, im guessing because there was less water in the cooling system coming through the engine. Besides head gasket or intake manifold, anything else can cause this.

Oil is now tanish brown and fairly consistent, and the oil level is a bit high. It doesnt look like theres water cuz I think water has a white streaky look, am I right? How do I check the coolant with out draining the system? I will check the plugs and change the oil tonight and see how that works.

I just got new tires and some steering work on to my turbo 90 loyale. I picked it up from the shop today and the first few minutes it ran fine, as I went along I noticed excessive smoke from the axhaust, it was white. Eventually more and more smoke started pouring out until the engine started to loose power and get groggy. It died a few times on the way home and now takes a little while to start and runs like sh**** Before I took it to the shop it ran great. The engine has about 50,000 on it and ran amazing until today. It has a tick that I beleived was a lifter could this be letting oil through somehow? Also I was advised by someone to put some automatic tranny fluid in the oil to clean the engine and maybe help the lifter, I did this right before I took it to the shop and I put in a 1/4 quart or so, could this be causing the problem? I would be shocked if it was head gasket. Thanks Joe

I am removing the damaged engine cross member in my 90 loyale. I have gotten most of the easy stuff removed but I have questions...... Do I need to lift the motor from the top or can I jack it from the bottom to remove pressure from the cross member? I will also have to remove the rack and pinion and steering arms ect... My manual should explain the removal easily, but how much do I have to remove to pulll the cross member out? Also, if anyone has done this I would love to have any tips. Thank YOU

Theres a good write up in the subaru repair manual that will walk you through it.

I will post a pic soon, but I have already replaced everything that was broken except the engine cross member. I will post some pics from under the frame. The cross member was bent inward an inch or less and the place where the sway bar mounts was bent in the same direction. I should measure it when I get it home this week, until then I cant start on it.

I swapped out the entire front right end and it still isnt straight because of the bent cross member. Yeah you are right though, everything was bent so I replaced it all from my donor rig I had at the time. Once I get the cross member off and am down to the frame should I check for any damage?