Joey Joe

My axle roll pin seems unremovable. I have done this many times with no problems but the drill bit i was using to pound it out jammed inside and broke off inside and the pin is only half out. I have a new axle waiting to go in. Drilling it out seems down right impossible so I was thinknig of just removing the axle stub. The car is jacked up on one side, the axle is free from all other parts, how much force will I need to remove the stubs and what is a good method? This is possibly the most frustrating thing that has ever happenened to me while working on my car. Thank you

OKay good to know. The GL 5 speed was non turbo. I figured as much because Just moving about 4 feet I could feel a lot of pressure building. whats the difficulty of a ring and pinion swap. 1-10, and whats the price I am looking at.

I swapped a 5 speed from a 87 GL in place of a 4eat into my 90 loyale. I am having problems with the 4 wheel drive and it is being caused by the rear dif. I have not driven it more than a few feet as to not damage anything. When I swapped out the auto could that have changed the gear ratios in the front but not the back? How do I tell the gear ratios of the rear dif and the 5 speed tranny, is there a place that will tell me. Also it could be that the dif is shot because I know that it leaks fluid, but it did seem to work fine with the auto about 4 months ago. Starting early on this problem before winter arrives. Thank you for your time.

It wont work on a 4eat auto tranny. Those are rare but some loyale's have them, mine did.

Got that engine from an import shop, put it in a month ago, it has 30-40 thousand miles on it and was leak down tested and compression tested. It definately leaks a very little, because it sat for long enough to dry some seals out I suppose? but the ammount of time I put into it is not worth trying to get a new one on warranty. I am pretty sure my mechanic sucks a$$. Any one know a great subaru mechanic in the kirkland seattle are. If it comes to it I just need someone to tell me what I need to do because troubleshooting is the hardest part. Oh yeah, and it burnt oil from the same spot before I swapped out the engine. The old engine I replaced the head gaskets and it wasnt leaking a bit of oil anywhere, it just threw a crank bearing. The car gods hate me these days\, but its looking up.

Cool, where might I find good wiring diagrams? I have had the car idleing for about 15 minutes now and theres no smoke at all. May have been a combination of too much oil and lots of gear oil all over the place. But i do think the tubro leaks burns off a bit of oil.

My 1990 loyale auto is now a stick shift. I gave her about 50% hell, still want to double check and tighjten every bolt. Much thanks to everyone who helped. Obviously their are a few things to work out, I will name them. 1. Engine idles strong but shakes a lot, I am thinking vacuum lines, which confuses me. 2. My left head light, side head lights, and dash cluster have all drastically dimmed, except for my right head light which is as bright as always. I am sure I jossled something around, I know a little about electric but any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. 3. I had a turbo put in by my mechanic because for some reason I thought it would have been too hard, but it would have been easy. Any ways, I thought it was leaking and burning oil internal because there is oil burning from the large burlge in the exhasut pipe right behind the turbo, whicle it is idleing, so oil is not being thrown onto from another leak. But no oil is coming out of the tail pipe. Mechanic said the leak doesnt constitute a new one under warranty, I just want some reassurance that this is just from the turbo. Thank you all for making my car run again:banana:

Yeah, you get your samrt ones and you get your dumb ones. It is enterttaining to me to see what kind of service I will get. Im pretty sure I know more about working on cars then them, they have just memorived parts asnd such.

Could be a million things, vacuum leak, running riich/lean, fule filter/ line leak. Try to find some leads. How does it idle, how does it run at top speed, what is acceleration like. Anything at all abnormal. What color suit is on your tail pipe? you will get more responses if you give as much relavent info as possible.

I can swap and auto to manual but I cant figure that out, just the way it goes. Might I ask who is the drunken professional? Thanks for your help Cab

Is it close to where the positive line comes from the battery to the starter.

I thought I knw how to do this but am failing at this moment. I need to have a wire going from positive on the battery, to a switch then back through the the starter but I dont know where to hook it up after that. By the way I put a fuse in. .

I spliced the two big wires, both black with a yellow stripe, from the shifter linkage wiring harness, I was under the impression that this would by pass the neautral switch which would make the car start. Didnt work, it is still making a buzzing noise just like when I used to try and start it in a gear besides park. This is a 4eat just to clarify. Thanks

I am still stuck. I have found a few ideas, but I do not know the locations of any of the parts and my HAynes isnt helping me much, as always. It seem there should be 2 wires on the tranny wiring harness that stayed in the car that could be spliced together to make this work. Any one know? I am anxious to see if this actually worked as planned.;

Yeah, that was pretty easy. I went to schucks and the guy had no idea what I was looking for, thankfully a costumer in the store was able to find exactly what I needed for me. I found a very small tear in the brake piston boot, Im gonna ride it out cuz I have a replacement unless someone says that is unsafe or something. Thanks for the help

The stock axles that I got with the 5 speed fit perfectly in the hubs, thank you all. Also I need help finding out how to by pass the park to starter switch, it wont start til I do

Mine is a 4eat, anyone know how by pass the park to starter connection, btw, I am done with everything but this.

SO the screw that disconnects the e brake is the one that is on the lower part of the brake assembly and is encased in rubber? I dont know nothing about brakes so it is hard to understand exactly what I am supposed to do. Thanks

I am finishing up my auto to 5 speed swap and am putting the brakes back on. I took the brake set up off of the rotor, though I dont think I had to, but now I can not get it back on. The brake pads are clamped together and the E brake and the normal brakes are not engaged at all. It almost seems like they may have come out to far and not wanting to go back in place. I have done this procedure before with no problems. Thank you all

I am basically done with the auto to manual swap, thanks to this forum. I have been searching for info on how to bypass the park switch to starter connection so I can start this thing up, but haven't found any good posts. I know there is a good one out there but I can not find it. Can anyone help me find a good post, or tell me what I need to know to figure this out. Thank you

Shewt, I quess I will do that. I thought I could sneak around having to do that. Seems like a lot a lot more work than just changing the screw, but no other leads so f it.

I am in the middle of an auto to manua swapl on my 90 Loyale. I am stuck on the brake pedal assembly that was originally on my 90 loyale. I can not get the bolt that holds the pedal off, I can turn it but it doesnt go anywhere, something is holding it on that I can not see. I need to replace it with the one for the manual which is longer to hold the clutch pedal. This thing is giving me hell, what do I do? Thank you all

Thats easy enough, any one know if a clutch alligner is necissary? Couldnt find one at any parts store, or a dealership, except for a universal one, but I didnt even wana go there. Tranny is from an 87 GL.

I invited my bvrother over to help me with install the clutch, he in the GENIUS of the family. I was planning on having everything ready for him but I can not figure out where to place the fly wheel on the engine. I do not know where the point of refrence is to match up the timing marks on the fly wheel. I had it all planned out but I moved the engine, I got ahead of myself. Thanks in advance

I want to replace the tranny stubs as I had to do it on my 4eat and it was very easy. Just one c clip to deal with. So should I just pull on the tranny stubs on the 5 speed as hard as I can to pop them out, or is there another way?\ Thank You aLL