Joey Joe

I am wanting to know if the tranny stub from my 4eat will it into the trany stub port of my 5 speed, My axles are a different spline count so I would have to go new axles and the ones I have are new.

So you are saying that there is an axle that will fit on to the 5 speed non turbo transmission and into the knuckles from my turbo auto? I didnt think there were any. I Have the axles that go with the 5 speed so I figured I would try and make those work instead of dropping 140 bucks on an all new axle set up.

It is coming along. The car is a 90 loyale turbo. I have to mod the axles from 4eat to make them fit the 5 speed non turbo from a GL. I was planning on switching doj cups but I thought that maybe the tranny stubs could be switched instead. Is there a difference in the stubs housing to tranny between a 4eat from a 90 turbo and a 5 speed non turbo from an 87 GL. Thanks

I have a 4eat so I will need to do something about the axle to knuckle. What is the DOJ? Is that the inner cv joint connecting to the tranny or the outer. I have undone the outer cv joint and bearings and put it back together, can I expect that the inner joint will be about as dificult. Thank You all

What do you mean by the axle's knuckle? I am assuming you mean where the axle connects to the wheel/brakes/knuckle ect. But i know that my axles on my subes have a different spline count and thinkness. By the way my loyale is an auto. Might be an important fact.

So you are saying it can be done but it is hard? or impossible. There are two different types of axles I know this to be true. So would you suggest swapping out everything instead of making all of my good parts already in place work with the tranny?

The auto tranny is trashed on my 1990 loyale. Ran it enough to get to know the engine I just installed runs great and is worth putting some time in to. I have a 5 speed from a GL non-turbo and the axles and dif, basically the whole car. My problem here is that the axles from the GL tranny do not fit with the hub/knuckle/brake components on the Loyale. My options 1. Install everything and build new axles to fit the GL tranny and the loyale knuckle I have heard this can be done but do not know what it truly takes. Can I use my original axles off of my Loyale and switch the inner joints with the Gl axles? Seems to good to be true but I would prefer to do this rather than swap everything else 2. Swap everything, dif front hubs knuckles and brake compnents ect. ect. I would love to be able to make these axles work with both components and am starting to install the tranny today so any knowledge on the subject will help so much Thank you

Fluid is good. But it wont shift manually either, but their is no Drive 1 only 2 3 D so i can't shift it out of first. It doesnt do it in other gears but I havent driven it much in its current condition.

I dont think their is a vacum line anymore, was confused with 3at information. I am not sure if the electrical connecters are good, How would I go about doing this. I am a newbie with electrical stuff.

Does anyone know any possible fixes for this problem......Electronically controlled scares me. Any help? The transmission ran with no problems up until the engine swap, sat for about 2 weeks now it will barely shift out of first.

Swapped in an engine into my 1990 loyale turbo 4at and now the transmission , which worked fine before, is having problems. It wont shift out of first when it is cold and when warm it shifts at a high rpm and clunks hard into second. I have researched this problem but am finding information mostly on the 3 speed. 1. Does the 4at use a vacuum modulator or is it electric? Where is this located on the 3 speed. 2. This problem could definately be the governer gear, the write up on the USRM is for the 3AT and I am having trouble finding where it is located on my 4At. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated Thank you

NOw it wont even shift out of 1st gear when its cold. Just drove it around the block, engine runs great though. Also, my oil pressure sender worked for about 4 minutes when the engine was turned on, then it would just drop all the way down instantly. If i turned the engine off and then right back on it would register good pressure for a few minutes then fall off again. Then the the oil pressure gauge pin in the dash dropped all the way down way below the zero line and when I turn the engine on it goes up just above the zero line. This seems like a short. If it is I would rather get a new gauge and mount it under my dash somewhere then deal with getting into that dash.

I have a 1990 loyale Turbo that I just put an engine in. The tranny was shifting fine before the swap but after wards it has been having problems. It shifts out of first at 4.5 (when warm) rpms and clunks into second. I am going to check the vacum and governer gear, I have been getting info on this but cant seem to find the governer gear and vacum modulator. My tranny is a 4 speed I believe, shifter goes from 2-3-D so IM guessing theres a 1 and D is 4th gear. ALso, the down shifting solenoid is working. 1.Where is the vacum modulator 2. where is the governer plate, there is 12mm (give or take) bolt right about the tranny stub, is that part of the plate? 3.Any other thoughts on what this could be

This is a picture of the hose on the passenger side of the tranny that I think is the vacum module, I couldnt find any other hoses that it could be. The picture is the passenger side top of the tranny right below the firewall. Is this hose a vent or something else? Also I can not find the modulator under the car, I heard ten inches behind the passenger axle but I cant see anything their, or find a hose going to it, any guidance would be great.

Did some research and found another possibility that would explain my tranny situation. Read about the governer being resposible for symptoms exactly like mine. My tranny gets stuck in gear and wont change til 4.5 rpms then rather violently changes into 2nd or third. Possible stuck spring on the governer, still trying to find out more about the vacum hoses and where they should hook to the engine, and havent found anything about the kick down or where it is located to check if it is connected.

I did the head gasket on my 90 loyale and finished it up and started it up, then turned it off and was done with it for the night. Went out in the morning to test her out and I couldn't get it started, nothing was happening when I turned the key, just an electrical sound. Must be the starter, so I switched the starter from my parts car onto my loyale and nothing. Later my brother came by and happened to notice it was in drive still, I am used to a stick so I didnt think about it. Put it in park and it fired up no sweat.

I found two hoses, one of which is on the passenger top side of the transmission and the other is right in the middle top of the transmission, They are both not connected to anything and were bound togehter with a zip tie. Anyone know what these are and where they should be going.

I am going to tinker around with the auto tranny, check the vacum and someone said something about the kick down may be the problem, where is that located on the tranny? thanks for the help

How do I check if it is my kick down that is the problem, is it internal? I will check the vacuum hoses tonight after work. Thank You

What do you mean by inner joint? Do you mean the joint connecting to the tranny stub? How is that changed? Also...since I am going to be changing the entire driveline besides a few major parts will I be able to slip the tranny to the motor and bolt it in from the back end instead of pulling the motor? Thanks for the input General

Yeah, Ive been searching and have found some good stuff but I am unclear on a few things. I have an 87 non-turbo that has a perfect drive train, I drove it for years and there are no problems with it, just a bad engine. How can I find out the different gear ratios of the knuckle and axle to make sure they are compatible with my 90 turbo, which has a good engine, does it say somewhere on the parts what the ratios are? On a side note, can I remove everything from the back and slip the tranny in from the back instead of removing the engine and implanting it from the front? Any step by steps anyone can find on the web or this site would help me greatly.

I am faced with a decision in the near future as to what to do with my car. Tha auto tranny in my 1990 loyale works but has some problems with the lifters, I beleive, and I am expecting it to die within 15,000 miles. I have a 5 speed from a GL lying around that is a good transmission. The only difference that I will have to change that I know of is the axles and hubs, loyale axel is a bit beafier the gl and doesnt fit in the hub, will there be any gear ratio problems with changing to a GL front end and keeping the loyale rear end? I will have to swap out tranny and t case, will I have to swap out the drive shafts as well? What can I expect and are their some good threads someone can point me to to learn more about this tranny swap. This is a hassel but will complete my dream Subaru.

I dropped a new ea82t in my 1990 loyale and towe3d it in to my shop to have them do a few small technical things to it. Picked it up last night and the engine is running good but the automatic tranny is shifting fom 1st to 2nd at about 4.5 rpms instead of where it used to shift, not sure of the speed but too high. It was a little low on fluid after sitting for a while in my driveway but shifts from neutral to park to drive fine, filled it up all the way and it shifted better, still to high though. Was wondering if there were any transmission systems that could have been dirupted in the engine drop, or any adjustments that can be made. Thanks all

What are the test mode connectors? I originally timed it at the zero mark on the fly wheel, this is tdc right? So is the 20 mark 20 degrees before tdc? What you need to do is possition #1 TDC and Insert the distributor with the rotor pointed to #1 position. Plug the two test mode connectors together and start the engine and let it warm up. Then set the timming to 20 degrees before TDC.

I am having trouble timing an engine I just finished installing in my 1990 loyale. It is an ea82t but the engine I beleive is newer than that. I cant get the distributor timed right. I have heard that it should be timed 20 degrees behind tdc. I lined it up with the 20 on the flywheel, marked the first cylinder wire and lined the dizzy rotor up with the mark and put it back together and I only get a couple little cylinders fires here and there. I had it running very rough for a second when I was fitteling around with it. Was my timing procedure correct and if do what should I go after next