
jp98
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Everything posted by jp98
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For a problem vehicle I would figure out what it is worth without the problem and then start deducting for the problems. Blown head gaskets can be fairly inexpensive to take care of if you do it yourself or expensive if you have a garage or dealer take care of them. So if you figure that your vehicle is worth $2K with everything working you might be able to get $500-$1000 out of it if everything else is good. If you are planning on selling it put the price high and then see what others are offering you. You may have to drop the price some to sell it.
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You can't tell the condition of the oil by its color. If you are running a synthetic you should be able to get at least 10,000 miles out of it by just changing the filter and then topping it off. You need to pull a sample of it and send it to a lab to see just what the oil is doing. I use Blackstone Labs. The sample kit is free and the turn around if quite quick if you use their email service.
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98 outback 2.5
jp98 replied to jpcloonan's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Subaru's are not priced that much higher in Denver where you would get even 1/2 of your money back with the quoted price on the repairs that you have. -
I should of said that I have used them on a grade 8 stud and not a bolt. I don't know what it would take to snap a bolt head off of a grade 8 bolt and don't want to find out. The studs were sheared off even with the block of metal that they were in.. I ground them down flat with a Dremel tool and then center punched them to get them out. Once the drill bit got a bite into the stud they started to come out. As I said low speeds and a lot of lubricant.
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I have used them on a couple of grade 8 bolts. The secret is to use a slow speed on a variable speed drill and use some lubricant. If you can use a center punch to start on the broken bolt then the drills should be able to bite into it.
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If you have a Harbor Freight in your area go pick up a set of left hand drill bits to use on broken bolts and screws. I have a set and have used them more than I would believe. The broken bolt may come out and it may not if it is frozen into the threads but you never know, they have surprised me at times at the bolts and studs that they will pull out once they get a bite into the metal. I have even used them on plastic bolts that have broken. And at only $8.00 you won't be out that much if they don't pull the bolt out and only drill through it. http://www.harborfreight.com/left-hand-drill-bit-set-13-pc-61686.html
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The color of the oil has nothing to do with the fact if it needs to be changed. You should try driving a diesel and see how fast that oil goes black. The manufactures are going by averages on when you should change out your oil and nothing more. Oil will break down over time loose some viscosity, and additives that are in it. If you really want to know just when you should change your oil you need to have a oil analysis done to see what is going on with the oil. When I have had it done with my Outback it has come back that I can run the oil to 7,000 miles with no problems. But I found this out over time by starting off sending in a sample at 3,000 miles then 5,000 miles and again at 6,000 on different samples. The last time that I sent in a sample at 6,000 miles it came back that I could run it another 2,000 miles but I am keeping it at 6,000 mile changes.
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You hope that it is going to last 9+ years. My last set for my Ford F250 only lasted 6 years and they were Motorcraft and cost roughly the same as yours did. Batteries any more are a crap shoot and if they outlive the warranty by very much you are lucky.
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Just beware of your next place that you are going to break down. I lost a fan belt years ago and coasted into my favorite automotive parts store, bought a new belt and borrowed tools from them to replace it. The next time I broke down I was 90 miles from the nearest parts store out in the boonies with a bad fuel pump.
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I would actually check and see if there is a rebuild shop in your area, there should be. Then have them rebuild the one that you have. You'll have a better alternator than any parts house would sell you. Now after saying that, the last alternator that I had to buy at a parts store got returned the next day and then the one after that. It took me 4 alternators before I got one that would actually work. The only reason that I bought it at a parts house is because I was out of town and needed it now.
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Metal in my oil?
jp98 replied to subakev's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Time to run the oil for a thousand miles or so and then get a oil analysis done and see what is in it. I use Blackstone Labs. If you go to their web site they will send you a free sample kit. -
Also don't even go by the fact that they give you a factory part number on Fleabay. I have a friend that purchased a part for a diesel truck and it was a piece of Chinese junk with the factory part number on the package but a different part number stamped on the part. There are on line dealers that sell factory parts for a few percent over cost, you just need to dig around to find them, and they are well worth the extra cost.
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Oil Filter
jp98 replied to keith3267's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I doubt it, all filters will have problems if you look deep enough or take enough of them apart. I have had a Wix blow apart on a truck, so should I quit purchasing Wix? I have also had factory filters come without O rings on them so should I quit buying factory filters? -
Oil Filter
jp98 replied to keith3267's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
I wonder just how many Fram filters he had to go through to find one that the metal strip was miss crimped and had the pleat missing in it? -
Oil Filter
jp98 replied to keith3267's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
If you don't want to mess with the oil drain plug and washers anymore just get a Fumoto Valve. I have had one on my Outback for over 15 years now with zero problems. If you worry about someone getting under your car and opening the valve then just get the hose ring lock that they sell for it. If you are worried about knocking it off if you go off road just look at what else is going to get tore up before the valve does. http://www.qwikvalve.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=search-fumoto -
From what I understand if the hole in the tire isn't round or a perfect fit for the plug it will still leak no matter what you do, where a patch will seal the hole no matter what. The tire dealer that I go to will fix my flats for free and they only do patches. Also on their warranty paperwork for the tires they state that a plug will void the warranty and should only be used in a emergency. All I have done is to plug the tire and then have them pull the plug and patch it a week or so later when I get down to them.
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You can also go down to Autozone or some other parts store and they should be able to read your cel and give you the code for it.
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I am not sure on a Subaru but on my truck a 96 Ford diesel I couldn't pull the block drains without removing the engine. So all I do is to remove the thermostat then flush everything with a hose and a T into the heater lines. I then drain as much as I can out of the lower radiator hose. I'll then fill and drain the coolant system 4 or 5 times with plain distilled water and then drain that. Then instead of using a 50/50 mix I'll fill the radiator with the correct amount of antifreeze for the system and then top it off with distilled water.
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If I would of thought that something had fallen into the cylinder or something had broken off and fallen into it I would do everything that I could think of to see inside that cylinder including going down to the nearest Harbor Freight and purchasing a fiber bore scope to investigate it further. I hate pulling heads when you don't have to.