toybuilder

This has been discussed ALOT. Try the search function. Your questions have been answered many times already.

Thanks for coming in today. This link is now in at least three different threads on this forum. In addition, it is in the Off Topic and the New Generation forums. If anyone can't find it, they probably don't need it......

Your Loyale does not have a center differential, that is why you are experiencing this drive train bind. It is a 5-speed with push button 4wd, right? Get it in the dirt or on a snow packed road and try to get the wheels to spin, also try backing up like Skip said. That should relieve the bind. Then it will shift out of 4wd. Good luck

Inspection mirror and a stubby screw driver. Very easy job.

Get an Ohm meter. Unplug the sonenoids. Check the resistance between the two terminals going to each solenoid. It should be around a few hundred ohms. If the resistance is infinte or zero, the solenoid is bad. Then check the terminals on the plug going into the wiring harness. There are 4 pins on my plug, two for each solenoind. Check the resistance between the two terminals for each solenoid. If it is zero ohms you have a short somewhere in the wiring harness. You have no indicator light because your 4wd is never engaging. Sounds like you have a bad solenoid if the fuse is taking a few seconds to blow. A short would take it out instantly. Good luck

I just bought a rebuilt center section from turbo city. I wouldn't mess with trying to rebuild one myself. It's not worth spending $125 on parts if you have no way to balance the assembly. Yes it will work if you don't, but not for long. The center section is quite a bit more expensive than the rebuild kit but you don't have to have any special tools or knowledge to bolt the old housings onto the new center section, and you get a warranty. I went through three junk yard turbos in a matter of a few months, before deciding to shell out the bucks for a new center section. For $27.50 at the local Pull n Save, I could have gone through many more junk turbos before spending as much as I did at turbo city. I want to drive it, not work on it anymore. Too much down time...

I couldn't find that torque spec in my 1990 Loyale FSM. Like WJM said, I made them just a little more than snug. Funny that they don't specify a torque for those bolts, no spec for the water pump bolts in my book either...

Recovering my hijacked thread... Well I finally got the axles off of the diff. I don't want to admit how long I worked on it. Air hammer did not work, not even with propane assistance. No amount of heating, prying, and hammering worked. Finally, I removed the boot from the Double Offset Joint, removed the snap ring that retains the axle/ball cage assembly, and removed the axle from the DOJ cup. There is a cap in the bottom of the DOJ cup that covers the stub axle and keeps the grease in. I used a center punch to put a hole in the center of the cap and then pried it out. Now I could see the end of the stub axle inside the DOJ cup. Cool. Now, I put a medium sized wheel puller, of the 3 jaw variety, around the outside of the DOJ, pushing against the stub axle. Impact wrench on the puller, propane heat on the outside of the DOJ cup, with good solid hits from a BIG hammer, and slowly but surely victory was mine. Like AdamNDJ said, next time you work on your axles, put some antisieze or grease on the stubs! I know I will. This mess came from a car as new as '89. Now to work on getting rest of the the axle off the control arm side. I'm not sure how to disassemble the Bell Joint on that side. It doesn't have a snap ring like the DOJ side. The cage seems to be retained by "magic" on the BJ side. ???

Just wondering, it seem to have disappeared. Not moved, but gone??

Thanks for the info Skip. Guess I should have looked into the FSM a little more thoroughly.

I'll second what achemitis said. Looks like this is true according to my '88 XT FSM. I think the best thing about the Spider intake is that it looks cool.

Thanks for sharing your info! I wasn't asking you to prove anything, just to share enough info that I might be able to do this myself. I see, the snap ring fits on the the u-joint itself, on the inside of the yoke. I'm going to order some joints and give it a try. Hopefully, no more junkyard shafts for me... Thank you.

Because of the floating nature of the valve cover and the way the bolt holes are sealed, I don't think it would be feasible to use a different size bolt. I would go the heli coil route. Expensive but correct.

You need a new turbo. My RX is doing a similar thing. It still makes good boost, but is a little noisy when it spools up. Once the boost comes on I lay down a "spy hunter" style smoke screen. If I stay off the gas and the boost never comes on, no smoke. I believe that the oil seals are shot. Good luck

The center section kit comes with the complete center section, and the gasket for the oil drain tube. I believe that's all. I ordered all the little copper washers for the banjo bolts from the dealer, as well as the gasket for the air outlet, and all new hoses.

There are no grooves in the yokes for internal snap rings. Did you also machine these into the yoke? What is the part # of the joint that you are using? What is the part # and source for the internal snap rings that you are using? Got any pics? Pop out just fine? Why did Subaru stake them in? Mine would not "pop" out, not even with a 10-ton press.... Please enlighten the rest of us with some useful info, because we haven't figured it out yet. I even had the local shop try to replace the joints, they wouldn't/couldn't do it. Thanks

1 hour! with the engine in the car? You removed the fan, front pulley, outside timing covers, timing belts, cam sprockets, and inner timing cover, removed the pump, installed the new one and put all that stuff back together in an hour! Can I come hang out with you and leech some of your skills?? Also, please explain the theory behind the HP gain. I don't buy it, unless your old pump had an incredible amount of rotating resistance. EDIT: Nevermind, I just noticed your talking about an ea81. Still don't buy the HP increase, though.

Rx Low = 1.196 Other Low = 1.592 Yes, it's a very noticeable difference.

It is burried, but not a "bid deal" in my mind. I can do it in about 4 hours. What kind of car are you talking about? It would help us to give you more accurate information?

$435 shipped. More than I originally paid for the rest of the car, but I have two old turbo cars and I'm getting tired of swapping junk yard turbos. Also, I just rebuilt the motor which made it easier for me to spend all that $$$ on a turbo. This link still works for Turbo City

Thanks Adam!

I just ordered a new centersection from http://www.turbocity.com for my ea82 turbo. They said that they had the same listing for all Subarus from '85 - '94. Same part # for the centersection only. He called it an RHB5, is this correct? Is it true that only the housings are different on a Legacy? Thanks, I don't have time for them to ship the wrong one.

The u-joints are not replaceable. They are staked in. Just two weeks ago I explored this situation. 1. New shaft from the dealer ~$500 2. Local drive shaft shop remakes my shaft with new yokes that accept replaceable u-joints ~$325 3. Shaft fromm pull n save ~$15 Guess what I did...

4-LO is 1.592:1

Yes, we should all get together. In Colorado! No way I'm going to Wyoming. I am glad that I am from there, and that I am not there. Not to mention, a bunch of us in freaky looking Subarus with out of state plates, would certainly draw attention/harrassment from the conservative Wyoming police.