toybuilder

Shop around for your parts if you have time, don't feel like you have to buy everything from the same place. I saved a lot of money this way. I bought the gaskets, seals, and bearings from a friend who has a Subaru shop. Gaskets are all genuine Subaru parts, and I would not recommend using anything else. http://www.1stsubaruparts.com is a good source for genuine Subaru parts. The bearings I used are made by NDC. NDC is Subaru's supplier of engine bearings, so even though they didn't come in a blue and white SOA box they are exactly the same bearings. I purchased everything else online, mostly from the Ebay. I am using Paraut oil and water pumps, also the original supplier of these parts to Subaru. I still have some parts to buy, like timing belts, which I will buy from 1stsubaruparts. CCR Inc rebuilt my heads, I think that they charge $65 per SPI head and like $150 per MPFI head (don't quote me on that, just rough numbers, call them if you want to know for sure). I don't know what other shops charge, I haven't seen any other prices. When I rebuilt my first SPI engine two years ago I had about $1200 in parts from the local dealer. This time I have about $400 in parts from various sources. Same quality of parts! I can't give you a meaningful answer about how much money to budget, as you can see, it could vary greatly depending on how much shopping you want to do. Parts sources that I have used: http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ http://www.thepartsbin.com http://www.all-foreign.com http://www.ebaymotors.com http://www.gasketpro.com

Other than the ring compressor the only other special tool that I needed was to remove the wrist pins. I made my own, it looks like this: Wrist Pin Tool I didn't need a valve compressor because CCR Inc rebuilt the cylinder heads. You will need some specialized tools other than a valve compressor if you elect to do your own head work. I recommend having someone else do that stuff. Torque wrench is a must. Make sure it is high quality and that you trust it. Good luck!

Are the Accel wires made to fit the Subaru, or the cut to fit kind? If they are the cut to fit kind are they a pain to install? I need to get that setup for my new turbo motor.

That is a ring compressor. I am ready to tap that piston down into it's bore.

Not much progress tonight. I reinstalled the fourth piston correctly, that's all. Too much other stuff going on. Good thing I don't need it running anytime soon.

NSK, a reputable Japanese manufacturer, makes a high quality replacement; all metal like the original. I have seen some other brands with plastic wheels.

I tore it down this far: I took absolutely everything apart, then I cleaned and measured everything with a micrometer. I had my crank reground, but other that that I reused everything and only replaced the wear parts. CCR Inc (you guys are great!! thanks!!) rebuilt my cylinder heads for me. As mentioned in another post, the "hardest part" is cleaning everything. I was feeling pretty good! The fourth piston is in but I missed the con rod when I installed the wrist pin, didn't even notice at first. I thought the fourth one went in too easy.....The hard part is knowing when to give up for the night and go to bed.....

Well, my engine rebuild is coming along rather slowly. I guess that is because this is a hobby, I don't have very much free time, I am meticulous, and I tend to too much while working in the garage. Last night's progress: 3 pistons and rings installed, 5 pints of Guiness consumed. I'm not slow, just enjoying myself.

I use good old fashioned solvent to clean the engine parts. It is petroleum based, similar to kerosene but with a higher flash point.

I am also glad that I got my stuff before he bailed. Sucks that you guys got screwed, sounds like there is more than a few of you too.

Like someone else said this is a project not just a repair. This is what is involved: Engine Parts 1 Engine Parts 2 This is one that I am rebuilding now, for my turbo wagon. There are some parts missing in those pics (don't have everything yet). The most time consuming part is cleaning everything. Oh yeah, that is also the least fun part. I worked on it for four hours on Sunday. In that time I got the connecting rods assembled to the the crank, crank installed in the block, and one piston in. No part of the job is especially difficult, just time consuming. Be organized, clean, and meticulous and you will have no problems. The first one that I rebuilt (ea82 SPI) has been running for 2 years now, almost 40k miles. Good Luck!

Wow! I hope my paint job comes out looking that good. What kind of gun and paint did you use? What kind of prep work did you do? You're in Denver? Why don't you come out and show that thing off at the Subaru Bar B Que next weekend? Details about the get together are in the Meet/Greet forum.

I have seen it before. Your block is toast. The engine got hot enough at some point for the aluminum to expand enough to let the sleeve float. Not repairable as far as I know.

Being bigger is not what makes oversized bearings better. The advantage comes from regrinding the crank, which makes it perfectly round again.

EA81 and EA82 use the same main bearings. If you get .25mm over you will have to have the crank reground. Yes, this is better. You should do it. It will cost about $60-$75 to regrind the crank. I don't know about the pistons or the rods, but all EA81 and EA82 1800s use the same piston rings. Good luck!

I'll be there!

If we do it on a Sunday, the rest of the details don't matter too much to me. Just let me know when and where.

Sounds like there is some interest in having a pot luck bbq. If this is the case we should make plans to do it soon. Anyone else feel that chill in the air? Might not be too many warm weekends left....

No, you won't lose any fluid. That is unless your work area tilts to the right side about 45 degrees. Good luck!

Unless these engines have been abused they usually only need the "wear" parts replaced (bearings, rings, seals, etc). Take it apart and inspect everything. The cylinder block itself it almost always useable as long as it was never run out of oil. If a piston siezed or a main bearing spun your block is no good. Otherwise chase the head bolt holes in the block with an M11x1.25 tap and hone the cylinders. If your pistons look good get new piston rings. Use high quality rings and make sure that you check the end gap. The rods are just about indestructable. Unless they are obviously damaged or the wrist pin fit is sloppy reuse them. Make sure you have the crank reground and get the appropriate size bearings. 220K really isn't that many miles for an EA82.

It is M11 x 1.25. A fairly uncommon size...... I just ordered the tap and die from MSC for about $20.

A barb-q or some wheeling sound like fun to me. I missed the last meet n greet in Morrison, didn't hear about it until too late. Won't miss the next one though.

Cool! Are you planning a five lug conversion? Any progress on the transmission project?

Damn! That is the second one that I've missed at the PnS in the last two weeks. Last time I was there someone was pulling one out of an 89 GL-10 when I walked up. Maybe next time......That's part of the fun......

The pump that my local Napa sells is the same pump pump that Subaru sells. It is manufactured by Paraut for Subaru. Same goes for the water pump. Not all aftermarket pumps are made by Paraut and some are simply rebuilt, you definitely don't want either of those. Looks like you can get one over at 1stSubaruParts for about a hundred bucks. Check them out, I've had good luck with them.