idosubaru

Reinstall the original EJ25 ECU and EJ25 intake manifold and EJ25 oxygen sensor. You did too much work for no reason. If the engines aren't both from an automatic or both from a manual transmission then swap the EJ25 drivers side cam and crank sprocket onto the EJ22. Follow those steps above and you're done. Have a question....reread the directions above. More wires just has higher fidelity and I think 0-5V is the normal range. Not a big deal. You just need to follow my directions above and the oxygen sensor is a non issue.

You want all the sensors to match the original wiring/ECU. Just change the engine and nothing else. Leave the original oxygen sensors, etc. There's no need to count pins, just leave the old sensors in or replace them with the same part. Is that what you did?

Even since the introduction of FI engines with ECU's subaru has changed parts numbers rapidly even in what look and function as identical ECU's. I've swapped tons from the 1980's, 1990's, and 2000's that have different part numbers. I'm just now seeing "Georgia" means the country, not the US State of Georgia. I'm unsure if that means your market/vehicles are different than US offerings. What's I've told you is true of US markets.

Shirt answer: get a 00-04 Outback ECU Subaru changes ECU part numbers ALL the time, they’re almost pointless for determining compatability. All 2000-2004 Outback/legacy 4 cylinder non turbo, and all non turbo bajas, ECUs swap and plug and play. Yours is an outlier Subaru went CANBUS in 2005 with OB legacy which are notoriously NOT interchangebe plug and play ECU The components are married and need done at a Subaru dealer. You can’t even swap a 2005 legacy GT ECU with another identical 2005 legacy GT unless you take it to Subaru and ask them to wave their magic sorcery electronic sauce at it. But since the Baja was just a 00-04 Outback castrated in the rear, the later 05-06 models are just 00-04 outback’s. they didn’t redesign the Baja to later Gen aesthetics or components. this will confuse online listings and information which doesn’t have the fidelity or experience to parse all that At least that’s my understanding. 05+ are off years as Subaru rolled out CANBUS technology piecemeal across models. But it’s fairly safe to say your 05 baja is just a 00-04 OBW and you can use any 00-04 Outback or legacy non turbo 4 cylinder ECU

I routinely avoid the disconnect battery step. I’ve worked on totaled wrecked Subarus airbags without pulling the battery. I’ve removed and replaced airbags in running Subarus to leave the AC on while I’m disassembling the ceiling and interior for the side impact curtain air bags. That takes forever and the back gets hot in the summer. I’ve plugged and unplugged airbags countless times in vehicles that are on. Bad idea I know but there it is I’ve also tied string to a wrench and pulled it right to a brand new fully charged battery posts and nothing but a small spark or three happened. Boring and disappointing. The type of wrench and it’s alloy/hardening or coating matters. The hard part was deciding when it was safe to go push the wrench off. Lol. Of course I’m not recommending any of this, and as an engineer with excessive Subaru experience I am discerning and will disconnect sometimes…and of course one day it will end badly.

His implied point is to flush the entire cooling system. I use Georgia Tech gecko adhesion technology on my tires for those 90 degree grades. Now, off to keep skis and tubes from falling out of the boat….

Doubt there’s enough scale to differentiate beyond anecdotes. Ive used a few CSF radiators, maybe 5-10. haven’t kept track of brands but end up with CSF most often by far, including at least one H6. they’ve fit right and worked fine. Second most would be Koyo I think. Also worked fine. I think GD said Aftermarkets are reasonable (he doesn’t say that often), but he’s seen the radiator cap not seal properly due to the internal neck sealing depth/surface. One could check cap sealing while it’s still under warranty. I’ve had the same issue towing other Subarus or large boats with an H6. Same thing. Fine until its steep grade, 90+ degrees. ensuring condenser fins are clean and straight will improve airflow to the rad. there are fin straightening tools if needed. A dedicated AT cooler would incidentally expand cooling capacity. That’s what I thought of doing but never did.

And I do remember your thread and comments sourcing and fixing that solenoid.

It seems valve body issues usually result in poor shifting but no noises. Whines and noises would be more indicative of CVT failure rather than valve body….that’s what comments seem to suggest but there’s a lot of i complete threads and comments so trying to get it right.

CVT and valve body failures aren’t rare - so how do you tell the difference? What’s the symptom differences?

You can use extensions to get a socket back there and wrench it extended out to about the brake master cylinder. Then play blindfolded whack a mole until the socket seats on the nut. Just make sure you got the right nut size - shoukd be 14mm. Then you’re not sticking your hands down there really anyway. If you can’t get it back on the remaining fastener is more than adequate. Lol

Easy - two fasteners, the one is a bit blind but not that big of a deal. Sounds like you have but make sure the power supply and cables are good. Also you can replace the $20 contacts inside and be good to go. The starter brushes and motor are almost always fine.

What he said. Replace slave cylinder and hose and prepare to bleed and bleed and bleed. Very common. Or convert that unreliable maintenance required hydro clutch garbage to a maintenance free cable clutch and never think about it again. Granted I’ve never had a repeat hydro failure after I’ve replaced the slave and hose, but the fluid flushing and failure rates of the hydro components are trash on principle for no net gain. been so long I’m forgetting if the fork and ball are the same between the two or the cable swaps right in

2000-2004 legacy, Outback rear axle. make sure it’s a Subaru OEM axle. they’ll have a green cup like I’m this example picture: https://www.ebay.com/itm/273843602467?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=273843602467&targetid=1645685073288&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=1023819&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073288&abcId=9312979&merchantid=108560327&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh9LOZz4eXXXBiZuxfnKtt5rn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoIaZl_GzgAMVETjUAR0rlARTEAkYASABEgKUWfD_BwE

hahahahhah. True true! That's Stout advice. I haven't pulled one in over 15 years and can not imagine a reason I ever will again. For the crank bolt - impact guns are money. A 3 foot pipe extension and smash the end with a heavy metal mallet will suffice as a make shift impact to remove the crank pulley as well. But having a bolt/anchor on the bellhousing for the flexplate or flywheel is much simpler and will be needed/useful when reinstalling too.

Sounds like a solid job.

Nice hit just replacing one head! I've done that before but always just pulled the entire intake manifold. You weren't worried about debris from the intake dusting the head surface? EA82 heads are incredibly easy to do in the vehicle. They're the one engine I'd never even bother considering pulling the engine unless it also needed a clutch or someone has a weak back. The "I can pull a Subaru engine in..." comments are two sided - Anyone that can pull, and more particularly, install, an EA82 in an hour can be cleaning both heads in an hour getting ready for install. There's no messing with seized dowels, walking the bellhousing off, propping up the transmission, aligning trans/engine. If someone has the experience to make all of that easy - they have the experience to make an insitu head pull with fewer bolts and less work a walk in the park.

Given the original sellers dishonesty the unknowns of the original engine are probably worse than the unknowns of the JDM which also has a warranty. There's no set of differential equation capable of determining whether the original or JDM engine is better or more risky. There's no telling how badly the previous engine overheated, was limped around, ran with water, and who knows what else. I'll fix H6's in the right situation but your situation isn't ideal particularly paying for the labor. JDM engines can have a warranty so if you have it installed by a shop quickly you can at least know the car wasn't scrapped for headgaskets, or get it replaced if there is an issue. $1,000 engine + $1,000 install/parts isn't really that terrible. While the JDM engine is out I'd replace the oil cooler gasket and thermostat with OEM subaru. Those both take 20 minutes and less than $30 in parts and you avoid draining/paying for coolant doing it now. It's also a good idea to do the spark plugs and gaskets. Do them now and you're good for another 100,000 miles, those OEM spark plugs are pricey ($100 for all 6) but easily last 100,000 miles. They're super easy to do with the engine out and much longer with the engine in.

If you get a 2.2 from a 1995 automatic legacy/outback it will be plug and play and bolt in for YOUR 1998 (not all EJ25's, but it will for that 1998 outback). Any 1995-1998 EJ22 can also work with some attention to EGR and exhaust which are very easy.

The OEM hoses are absolutely notable better quality (stiff/firm/cut different) fit, last longer, and you'll be sure to get the right hose. Not worth saving $10 unless the car is a rust heap nearing it's death. The lower hose and clamps typically contact road debris/chemicals/winter treatments more than the top and are worth checking closely.

Probably. Subaru parts websites have a "What this fits" tab that will show you all the models that part is used one. Check there and www.car-part.com

Thanks. That should be it unless you already have an engine oil cap laying around just about any year should work. rebuilt a totaled Outback for myself and misplaced it and one of my spares. But don’t go looking for one, just if you’ve got it.

Excellent I’ll take a new style tensioner and cam sensor 97 EJ22 if that works for you.

Thanks. Got it I’ve swapped to old style, out of brackets and probably best to keep this guys stock for a few reasons. Cam sensor maybe. I think I scrapped all my 90s sensors. Im working on it in a week so I’ll let you know once I test the timing tensioner.

Helped a neighbor tonight. 97 EJ22 OBS, idled poorly yesterday with no codes, then today No start, fuel good, timing marks good. Cam sensor code, the sensor connector and wiring look good. I’ll look it up, I think the FSM has a test for the cam sensor How far apart are the timing tensioner set holes once the pin is pulled? Does anyone have a picture of EJ timing tensioner hold down pin hole on a good engine? The tensioner hydraulic pin shaft had about a 3 mm clean metal ring like the tensioner may be moving or are they all like that? The belt seems a little tiny bit loose but maybe I’m grasping for straws… 1997 EJ22 - I could stick a drill bit into the tensioner hold down and pin holes. They’re only off by a little bit. Seems like they should be further apart but I don’t have any in the garage to compare too.