idosubaru

Sounds like a solid job.

Nice hit just replacing one head! I've done that before but always just pulled the entire intake manifold. You weren't worried about debris from the intake dusting the head surface? EA82 heads are incredibly easy to do in the vehicle. They're the one engine I'd never even bother considering pulling the engine unless it also needed a clutch or someone has a weak back. The "I can pull a Subaru engine in..." comments are two sided - Anyone that can pull, and more particularly, install, an EA82 in an hour can be cleaning both heads in an hour getting ready for install. There's no messing with seized dowels, walking the bellhousing off, propping up the transmission, aligning trans/engine. If someone has the experience to make all of that easy - they have the experience to make an insitu head pull with fewer bolts and less work a walk in the park.

Given the original sellers dishonesty the unknowns of the original engine are probably worse than the unknowns of the JDM which also has a warranty. There's no set of differential equation capable of determining whether the original or JDM engine is better or more risky. There's no telling how badly the previous engine overheated, was limped around, ran with water, and who knows what else. I'll fix H6's in the right situation but your situation isn't ideal particularly paying for the labor. JDM engines can have a warranty so if you have it installed by a shop quickly you can at least know the car wasn't scrapped for headgaskets, or get it replaced if there is an issue. $1,000 engine + $1,000 install/parts isn't really that terrible. While the JDM engine is out I'd replace the oil cooler gasket and thermostat with OEM subaru. Those both take 20 minutes and less than $30 in parts and you avoid draining/paying for coolant doing it now. It's also a good idea to do the spark plugs and gaskets. Do them now and you're good for another 100,000 miles, those OEM spark plugs are pricey ($100 for all 6) but easily last 100,000 miles. They're super easy to do with the engine out and much longer with the engine in.

If you get a 2.2 from a 1995 automatic legacy/outback it will be plug and play and bolt in for YOUR 1998 (not all EJ25's, but it will for that 1998 outback). Any 1995-1998 EJ22 can also work with some attention to EGR and exhaust which are very easy.

The OEM hoses are absolutely notable better quality (stiff/firm/cut different) fit, last longer, and you'll be sure to get the right hose. Not worth saving $10 unless the car is a rust heap nearing it's death. The lower hose and clamps typically contact road debris/chemicals/winter treatments more than the top and are worth checking closely.

Probably. Subaru parts websites have a "What this fits" tab that will show you all the models that part is used one. Check there and www.car-part.com

Thanks. That should be it unless you already have an engine oil cap laying around just about any year should work. rebuilt a totaled Outback for myself and misplaced it and one of my spares. But don’t go looking for one, just if you’ve got it.

Excellent I’ll take a new style tensioner and cam sensor 97 EJ22 if that works for you.

Thanks. Got it I’ve swapped to old style, out of brackets and probably best to keep this guys stock for a few reasons. Cam sensor maybe. I think I scrapped all my 90s sensors. Im working on it in a week so I’ll let you know once I test the timing tensioner.

Helped a neighbor tonight. 97 EJ22 OBS, idled poorly yesterday with no codes, then today No start, fuel good, timing marks good. Cam sensor code, the sensor connector and wiring look good. I’ll look it up, I think the FSM has a test for the cam sensor How far apart are the timing tensioner set holes once the pin is pulled? Does anyone have a picture of EJ timing tensioner hold down pin hole on a good engine? The tensioner hydraulic pin shaft had about a 3 mm clean metal ring like the tensioner may be moving or are they all like that? The belt seems a little tiny bit loose but maybe I’m grasping for straws… 1997 EJ22 - I could stick a drill bit into the tensioner hold down and pin holes. They’re only off by a little bit. Seems like they should be further apart but I don’t have any in the garage to compare too.

Or piston slap, timing tensioner slapping

I had new one break in a couple thousand miles that was in contact with a lot of oil from a leaking crank seal. Luckily a non interference engine, and it seemed obviously caused by chemical contamination. Though the picture you posted doesn't show any wetness, so I'm guessing it was clean? You haven't mentioned timing pulleys - were any low on grease or seized? If nothing else is obvious, Aftermarket parts are like that - it's not like they all fail, but I'd expect 1-3 early failures in 15 years from aftermarket timing belts.

I’ve installed JDM. H6s and replaced H6 HG for the reasons you stated. I’d rather have new gaskets than another unknown engine. But it’s a beastly job and given you just bought this car I would hesitate to do it because you don’t know how badly it’s been overheated before you got it.

Aftermarket belt is most likely culprit. Use Subaru or OEM supplier onlyfor belt and pulleys Check rotation of all timing pulleys for grease filled bearings and crank/cam shafts Id replace the lower cogged idler at a minimum.

Ask your local Subaru service department where they get their machine shop work done. The ones I know mostly avoid machine shop work entirely but they still always have a job or 5 they need something done for by a machine shop.

Piston slap can be fixed with the heads off with new pistons or if you have a shop that will knurl the pistons for you. With heads off, unscrew the piston pin access hole, pop the pins out and the pistons come up through the bore where the heads were. What larry said. I wouldn't worry about normal piston slap. And I'd wonder if it was reasonably maintained, and how much oil it was consuming.

Looks original and old. If you’re not seeing losses or leaks then it’s not leaking externally. The only failures I’m aware of are external leaks, damaged necks preventing the cap from sealing, and interval clogs. I’ve never heard of internal leaks but failure of the plastic is no surprise on 10+ year old radiators and yours is 20 yo. If you have tractor or equipment repair shops or one of the few remaining radiator repair shops around they can test the radiator. But for the time you can just buy a new one. Ebay is the go to radiator source. They’re very inexpensive and aftermarket is a surprisingly decent option for Subaru radiators. I’ve seen H6 Subaru radiators for under $70.

It's probably not the struts. I've never seen even horrific struts cause ghost walking like you're describing, why replace them? It's probably the springs, not the struts.

Yes. I have one. Liberally grease all the threads, they're under a lot of stress, don't run them dry.

Lots of great shops in CO, as the previous reply indicates. Both those guys that replied to you 100% know what they're talking about. You just received top notch advice. Good luck!

I don't know CA laws but if the car is going to be registered in CA I think it's not going to pass their sniff tests. Don't they check to see if the engine is original?

The spring has failed. I've pulled out failed springs like this and compared them to others - and there's no visual difference. They are the same length, no cracks, I assume the materials are degraded and not offering the right spring rate characteristics. So I don't know of any tests that can be done to confirm diagnosis. But if it happens due to bumps while driving straight, that's a failed spring in a Subaru IME. That's true, his is happening only due to bumps, not while cornering, which is typically a failed spring. Although at this age and condition, it probably doesn't matter and both new struts and springs are on the menu.

Ensure all your leaks and filter is sealed with no air sneaking around? If the intake is still stock, try another filter for just one oil change?

I think they used to be cast such that the left and right heads were identical parts. only need to cast one part for both heads. Which just requires the cam support be cast into both ends, just plug the unused one as needed. I worked in manufacturing engineering early in my career and this type of move was very common. Having one type of cast product that could be finished as needed for multiple applications was more efficient than having two different casts, particularly for low volume products or initial development. So my guess would be the ones without plugs are later models.

I’d drive it and shut it off before it overheats so much it bubbles out, but after it gets warmer than normal. Do that a few times and see if there’s coolant loss/air in the radiator and reservoir. What happens: 1. Levels all normal? 2. Radiator is low? 3. Radiator and coolant reservoir are low? 4. Or is it overheating so badly and quick that test isn’t possible? Good, sounds like head gaskets but glad it’s not. Those engines run fine on pure water, it will not overheat because it has pure water in it. cool lower hose is indicative of air in the system which prevents coolant flow under certain conditions. aftermarket thermostats and water pumps aren’t known to be be high quality. But those don’t explain your symptoms