idosubaru

Looks original and old. If you’re not seeing losses or leaks then it’s not leaking externally. The only failures I’m aware of are external leaks, damaged necks preventing the cap from sealing, and interval clogs. I’ve never heard of internal leaks but failure of the plastic is no surprise on 10+ year old radiators and yours is 20 yo. If you have tractor or equipment repair shops or one of the few remaining radiator repair shops around they can test the radiator. But for the time you can just buy a new one. Ebay is the go to radiator source. They’re very inexpensive and aftermarket is a surprisingly decent option for Subaru radiators. I’ve seen H6 Subaru radiators for under $70.

It's probably not the struts. I've never seen even horrific struts cause ghost walking like you're describing, why replace them? It's probably the springs, not the struts.

Yes. I have one. Liberally grease all the threads, they're under a lot of stress, don't run them dry.

Lots of great shops in CO, as the previous reply indicates. Both those guys that replied to you 100% know what they're talking about. You just received top notch advice. Good luck!

I don't know CA laws but if the car is going to be registered in CA I think it's not going to pass their sniff tests. Don't they check to see if the engine is original?

The spring has failed. I've pulled out failed springs like this and compared them to others - and there's no visual difference. They are the same length, no cracks, I assume the materials are degraded and not offering the right spring rate characteristics. So I don't know of any tests that can be done to confirm diagnosis. But if it happens due to bumps while driving straight, that's a failed spring in a Subaru IME. That's true, his is happening only due to bumps, not while cornering, which is typically a failed spring. Although at this age and condition, it probably doesn't matter and both new struts and springs are on the menu.

Ensure all your leaks and filter is sealed with no air sneaking around? If the intake is still stock, try another filter for just one oil change?

I think they used to be cast such that the left and right heads were identical parts. only need to cast one part for both heads. Which just requires the cam support be cast into both ends, just plug the unused one as needed. I worked in manufacturing engineering early in my career and this type of move was very common. Having one type of cast product that could be finished as needed for multiple applications was more efficient than having two different casts, particularly for low volume products or initial development. So my guess would be the ones without plugs are later models.

I’d drive it and shut it off before it overheats so much it bubbles out, but after it gets warmer than normal. Do that a few times and see if there’s coolant loss/air in the radiator and reservoir. What happens: 1. Levels all normal? 2. Radiator is low? 3. Radiator and coolant reservoir are low? 4. Or is it overheating so badly and quick that test isn’t possible? Good, sounds like head gaskets but glad it’s not. Those engines run fine on pure water, it will not overheat because it has pure water in it. cool lower hose is indicative of air in the system which prevents coolant flow under certain conditions. aftermarket thermostats and water pumps aren’t known to be be high quality. But those don’t explain your symptoms

Yes. That’s the rear of the camshaft right? assemble and install the plastic caps that go there. Camshaft plugs they might be called.

It runs fine without a thermostat? How long was it driven without one? How do you know it ran fine before all the work? Is this someone else’s car who told you that or you’ve been driving it for years? You seem adamant it’s not, but this is the classic start of a case that ends up being headgasket.

I’d suggest getting 16” Forester turbo wheels and if you must stick with those vulnerable 17” stock wheels - If I had to guess the BFGs will be a strong candidate. Generally, for what you’re looking for - you get what you pay for. Cheaper tires tend to reduce side wall strength and chemicals that mitigate UV/oxygen degradation for longevity. average consumers aren’t good purveyors of those traits. So companies can easily cut expense there. Have you considered getting larger sidewall tires? You could use the lid time standard Outback 16” wheels. The 16” Forester turbo (and maybe some non turbos) are super sharp wheels The 2005+ trend to increase wheel diameter and lessen the tire side wall makes them more vulnerable. I live in an area where gravel roads are common. I see tons of 2005+ Subarus with busted side walls and those bumps on the side walls (do they have a name)? My 2009 legacy has a large protruding bump now. It’s so common I’m just leaving it. I’m tired of replacing them, this set will be replaced soon, these are otherwise great tires, and this car isn’t that critical. Tire companies change brands all the time for marketing purposes so it’s hard to see good quality long time reviews and consumers in aggregate aren’t great reviewers for a huge number of reasons. Example: general Altimax tires are a very common tire here that performs well and is priced well. But they have weak side walls and I see them fail all the time here. The online reviews don’t mention this. So reviews aren’t great but: Id still look at reviews to see what they say.

Check the timing belt and tensioner. Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the intake when it's stumbling and see if that smooths it out? What happens if you prop the idle open by hand or drive with partial throttle like 10 mph - does it stumble then? Or just at idle? If it's happening just at idle I'd swap in another idle control valve. Is the fuel pump aftermarket? Pressure looks good but I don't trust aftermarket subaru pumps/alternators/starters - they're routinely garbage and fail or work poorly.

I might have a 96-98 legacy cat - you want me to check?

the transmissions are $6,500

Excellent low mileage.

They’re solid vehicles. Prices seem to be subsiding. If you can wait a few more months, don’t buy now tax returns still in play. Economy will continue to stall and people will be spending on summer travel houses pools land scaping and cars are second fiddle.

If you mean “new” I’d get the extended 120k warranty and buy whatever you want. I avoid warranties generally, and haven’t priced them recently but they were a very reasonable deal a year or two ago when acquaintenances/friends were getting them Ascent for space Crosstek for resale Outback for interior space usability As others have stated the Rav 4 and Toyotas in general are impeccable for reliability.

All the 90's EJ25's are 4.44 final drive so use any AT from 2.5 equipped 98 and earlier Subaru: 1996-1998 Outback, Forester, or any 1996-1998 Legacy models with 2.5 (LSi, etc).

95-98 Legacy Forester Outback Impreza all work. Generally 2.5s are 4.44 final drive and 2.2s are 4.11. occasionally there’s an oddball. make sure the final drive matches or swap diff to match. 95-96 FWD auto trans will bolt up and plug and play work as well.

Yea. It’s 100% benign for pre 2005 models. The ECU doesn’t use that data for fuel trim. It’s not indicative of anything but emissions. the biggest issue is you can’t tell when the code trips again. It’s routinely ignored in states that don’t check the check engine light for emissions or inspections for 100s of thousands of miles. Install an extender $10 on eBay and the code will go away. It’s just a spacer - remove rear O2 sensor, install spacer and reinstall O2 sensors into the spacer. It just makes the rear O2 sensor sit a little off the exhaust stream which is enough to trick 90% of them to not trip the code. repair usually includes replacing the converter. Aftermarkets sick and can cause the same issue in 1 month or 2 years. Subaru converters are $500+. So it’s not economical to repair if it’s not needed. it can often be caused also (conflating causes with an tires converter) due to an exhaust leak, fuel trim, vacuum leak, etc. but it’s nearly impossible to track down unless you’re a signals wizard. Most of the times the repair will be installing a new converter and making sure the engines working properly.

Don’t know. Some of the Subaru sites post dimensions of orings. Maybe try looking to see if any of them list it to compare to the shaft measurements? I’ve replaced those but don’t recall number. I’ve always gotten the right one so my hunch is you probably found the right one.

Good to see you beast! Lots of your parts went to good use and I still have quite a few! Yes cam and crank stay with the vehicle if you swap the engine swap the original crank and cam sprockets onto the new engine. Done that’s it. The swap that person did is a mountain of headache though because the idle control differences aren’t easy to work around. The ghetto work around is to just prop the throttle plate open but that’s not a great soltiuon either. good to *see* you. drove a friend to NH for grad school and passed by Albany and northern NY, beautiful.

Never seen one. Could you ask your machine shop what they think of those?

Nonturbo EJ25 with new properly installed Subaru headgaskets, full timing kit, and 4EAT. Which should be close to: 2005--2010 Forester 2005-2011 Imp 2005 - 2012 Outback/Legacy