idosubaru

After flushing it'll be such a small amount I'd guess it's negligible.

Yeah they’re decent combos. Also have a 2002 H6 outback with 260k on it as well. mileage is comparable to H4s only under ideal driving conditions. Even moderate City, mountains, heavy foot and they plummet quicker than H4s…which I’ve owned a ton of too. The headgaskets don’t seem quite as bad as H4s but can be a problem. I bought the Tribeca (when they were still 5 digit vehicles) with blown headgaskets (cheap) at around 120k. Installed a JDM. The OBW is all original. I’ve owned others, been around lots of H6s and seen other headgaskets and repaired them as well. It’s a beast of a job compared to H4s. I like them personally, but they can hose someone who can’t DIY or doesn’t have a good reasonably priced mechanic or doesn’t purchase them well.

Ah I see. Yeah turbos and H6s (Outback legacy Tribeca) got the 5eat. Any Outback or legacy 5eat will work but final drive needs to match. If you find a diff gear ratio swap the matching rear diff. Not sure if Tribeca will work. The 5eat isn’t the beast like 4EATs but they’re not that bad, I’d just change the fluid and see how it does. My Tribeca has 260,000 miles on a smooth as butter original trans. I’ve changed the fluid once with Amsoil.

Determine what is in your car before thinking about swaps, which isn't likely to happen anyway. 4 ways to tell: 1. look in the cabin, does the gear selector move only straight forward and back and have a button on it and the base plate says P-N-D-1-2-3-R or some simlar combination for Park, neutral, drive..etc? That's an automatic. If it's a loan stick that has play left/rigth as much as forward/back without those demarcations then it's a manual. 2. Post a pic of the gear selector/center console, and we can tell you or compare to online photos of the same 3. plug the VIN into an online VIN decoder and it'll tell you what transmission it has. 4. Auto's have a long dipstick under the brake master cylinder on the drivers side, and a front diff gear oil cap on the passengers side. Manual only has gear oil cap on passengers side. This is too funny not to mention - I'm not sure how to own a car, see the trans fluid, and pull the engine without knowing what kind of transmission it has, the process to remove the engine is slightly different for each. A 4 speed easily installs in place of a 5 speed, they're like lego's and it bolts right up, but getting it to run is mad money or labor that's out of 99.9% of people's time or money thresholds. Wiring, TCU, cruise, cables, pedal assembly, driveshaft length differences, center console.... lots of work and parts. Yes other manual transmissions in other subaru's will fit that vehicle. if they have a different gear ratio you'll need a matching rear diff and your speedo will be off by a litlte bit.

Someone post some manual racks for sale from rust free New Mexico a few times. Can’t recall if EA81 or EA82. have you looked for used one? reman racks are still available.

14 codes!!! probably improved 0-60 times not needing to process all that extra data. Lol.

I’ve never pulled a dash. I think you have access but can you get an 04 FSM? I’m out of state now but will check.

Don’t recall year/model. I remember being surprised XT6s ran fine without an instrument cluster when I had a ton of them so I did it with later EJ (or possibly EZ) and they drove fine to work. It’s odd driving not knowing if check engine light tripped, speed and engine temp. some folks on vanagon forum mentioned sometimes it takes awhile for issues to show up with a lack of VSS so maybe I got away with it for a lone commute to work? Which I say because the Subaru vanagon conversion folks have to deal with this often maybe you could see what they say if you strike out here? Let us know what you find.

It looks like parts are available. Here’s the exploded diagram: https://www.subaruparts.com/v-2014-subaru-forester--2-5i--2-5l-h4-gas/body--rear-seat-components Is it item 10, 11, or 15?

The bolt it tight and not stripped? Is the bracket visibly bent? Can you bend the bracket back into position? Some newer subarus have adjustable recline, my 2016 OB does - does this one have that?

I dug out two SIKA bottles I already had, if they're still good I'll try them. Thanks again.

$30 a tube no kidding. cutting the bushings out and pressing in new ones sounds terrible but you’re probably right. this is closer to a farm truck than long term daily driver so, time being money, I’ll probably try window weld for the learning experience. ha I’ve got that same sika flex in my garage. Fascinating never consider using it for bushings.

Exactly. used Subaru pumps have higher 3 year survival rates than a new aftermarket. I would never install aftermarket unless I had an uncanny reason.

I’ve driven EAs and EJs without an instrument cluster. It’s very weird to do so but they ran and drove fine without one. I wonder why that’s possible but you need it for a swap?

Oh heck yeah. If it’s wiring it’s almost always inside that flex boot conduit.

mud dauber nest. They paralyze a spider. Stuff it down each hole and lay an egg on it. The baby hatches and eats the paralyzed spider. There’s a rubber gasket under each lid. Have a replacement gasket or back up tube of sealant for triage if it rips.

Id still guess it’s the switch. Test it. Wet due to window being off track?

Excellent. Did you do it to compensate for the bushing failing or performance? The diff blew up so it’ll be removed and easy access.

Look up your exact vehicle year model on a Subaru parts website. They have a “Fits these models” button that shows all the vehicles that share the same part. This really helps show what the delineation is Pull the hose at the fuel filter to diagnose a bad pump in less than 3 minutes. Very easy.

Bearing debris. If this is a good engine maybe a bearing/chunks were wedged in/under oil pan baffles and not noticed during a previous pan swap. Or just sitting there and the pan was quickly swapped.

The rear bushings are cracked - 3 of the 4 support areas have cracks all the way through and the last one is very close to being all the way through. But the bushings are all intact, all rubber is still there, All the cracks are gapless and tight. 250,000 mile Tribeca but the diff/bushings are exactly like EJ/EZ and even EA even. I'm going to clean the bushings out and fill all of the areas around the bushing material with 3M window weld and see how it goes. Clean with brake cleaner or something else? Brake cleaner is said to be safe for rubber/bushings. Has anyone done this? I've seen posts about making bushings or filling in good bushings to stiffen them up. But not much of anything on just filling in existing bushings with this stuff.

Totally get it weve all been there. For certainty measure it like I described. Then it’s real easy to visually see/check/confirm that bell housing difference.

Starter can be an indicator if it’s working properly and you’re testing when extended as if starting and not just statically putting jt there. The solenoid pushes it out further. When the engine and trans are bolted together the flex plate and fully seated converter ***will not touch***. There’s a gap and the TC bolts draw the TC and flex plate together. Measure the TC distance to trans bell housing and flex plate distance to engine side bell housing. it’ll be obvious the engine side measurements can’t show interference with the trans side measurements. If the flex plate is recessed inside the engine bellhousing 1/2” then the TC can’t protrude more than 1/2” out of the trans bellhousing. If the mating surface on the TC sticks out 3/4” past the trans bell housing then you know it’ll interfere with the engine. Those are made up numbers for reference.

Wow. I’ve got no cable or internet and limited cell service via a self installed Singapore repeater antenna in the mountains. Hundreds of miles wow. So what year rust-free Subaru would be tradable up there for a camping spot, cabin or place to salmon fish or moose hunt?!

It's a been awhile but I'm fairly certain those are identical.