idosubaru

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10mm ratcheting wrench for those lower rear bolts. Game changer for those two bolts. A short enough height ratchet and socket can work but much more annoying.

Oil is normal in an engine. It’s spraying everywhere and coating interior copiously and sitting in locally low spots in the engine. Milky, probably short trips. or initial headgasket you don’t know about yet. Use standard issue OEM plugs. No need for platinum or specialty

"scan", for 3D printing? Yes it can be done for hundreds of dollars. Not all XT(6) steering column covers are interchangeble. Total tire diameter depends what struts you have. 225/60/16 tires on mine now would allow for 19" if they're low profile. But again itll depend what struts you have. Most are converted to something else by now, if you have impreza struts up front you'll be more limited.

Those only came on very early 90's Legacy's. None after 1994.

Good thinking. Then you'll never have to think about special tools, not engaging, mangled fittings.

Are you sure you need all fluids drained, maybe that's a CYA list that they only loosely follow when someone is being asinine? I've seen "gas tanks drained, hole punched in tank, and title necessary" and scrapped cars for full price with neither of those "requirements" being met. 15 miles I'd pull it in the middle of the night with a long chain/tow strap. Emergency brakes are mechanical so no brake fluid needed at all, just make sure they're working well and practice first, they do not work to stop QUICKLY so if you're being towed go slow, slow starts, slow deceleration, consistent, with someone who's done that before and coast down steep mountains and reattach at the bottom. If you still want to go the original plan - I would drain the ATF/diff/engine 100 yards from the place, tow it into the parking lot, or push it with another vehicle or if there's any grade - use those to coast into the parking lot. Removing all the fluid is impossible since the rack, torque converter, valve body and more all have fluid that can't come out with a typical drain. Even changing the fluid will still leave all those significant amounts of fluid in it. So their "requirement" to drain all fluids is a bit suspicious.

Doesn't matter now but I've cut them off my personal cars and installed regular fuel hose.

This might be a good tutorial on reading OBDI codes but it's a legacy not forester and USDM: https://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Try to read those codes. That's the best starting point. Oh you're probably OBDI? Quick google suggests AUS didn't have any Subaru OBDII in the 90's so yours probably is OBDI. Have you see that process for getting the car to flash the codes for you? Maybe you don't need a scanner? I think you just plug in the connectors and the check engine light flashes the code to you, not sure where you'll find these in a RHD 98 For but the connectors may look like this: It got down to about -10 Celsius where I used to live and did TB coolant bypass without issues.

Do you think it slid through the covid cracks? Our inspections were all screwed up due to COVID. Offices closed, no inspections of reconstructed vehicles for a year. They allowed local title companies to provide more services than normal and delayed/weren't enforcing any state inspections at all. My inspection is 3 years expired and they aren't pulling me over with my ancient peeling off sticker. I have inspection scheduled Thursday this week. Also I've seen a number of times where the insurance/payout/titling/totaling process doesn't happen like normal. "Totaling" a car means the insurance company buys the car from you. They pay you and take the car and title. The title then gets branded however your particular state brands wrecked cars. If you do a buyback they give you the title back branded and you keep or get the car back. Often times they don't acquire your car/title and just hand you a check, so no documentation happens besides just paying you. I find they'll act VERY QUICKLY (and thus skip those steps) if concise and I make it known I'd prefer to avoid lawyers if the situation is addressed reasonably. I've avoided them every time for myself and friends I've helped through wrecks with good results. Or take the car, but not the title, then you do a buyback and they never follow through with title. Whatever the case - the totaling/wrecked/title/branding/registering of wrecked cars through insurance often doesn't go the same way every time. I've found the insurance process is surprisingly not as regimented as other parts of the legal/DMV process.

Can you post all the codes you’re getting? You’re positive it’s all cylinder misfire codes? I think that’s the idel controller. The three wire part? Look it up and see if it looks the same as what you’re looking at I’ve removed them on older fuel injected non turbo subarus down to temps well below zero without issue. If the idle controller is expecting coolant maybe it’s freaking out? Don’t know. Higher octane alone shouldn’t matter.

Can you map fuel trims while it drives normal and through one of it's episodes and compare?

No non turbo US EJ25's had that unless they slapped it on some late EJ25 nonturbo's that snuck past me. I'd guess that's a turbo only part in the US. 99 EJ25 isn't turbo, there are no turbo EJ25's in the 90's in the US.

What is TSV? I’ve never heard that term. Googling Subaru TSV didn’t help.

I've bought from them before too. Nice too they know Subarus when other places fumble and waffle around with what fits what or have interchange issues.

Do you have any non-ethanol gas close by? Non-ethanol is the gold standard. Landscaping equipment managers and boat owners go that route and have no love for additives. More anecdotally, I've used Stabil and my outdoor equipment never worked any better over doing nothing. I may be mis remembering but I thought GD mentioned years ago treatments aren't nearly as good as their reputation. I remember someone talking about it because it was when it wasn't doing my property equipment any good.

Radiator isn’t blocked? How many miles has it driven since the work? Did the symptoms start immediately or after a month? How often does it do this - once a day or week? Look for a pattern when it overheats. Coming off a long sustained drive (like exiting an interstate or driving back roads and stopping more in city)? Going up hills or coasting or night and day or ambient temps.

Those connectors are used for memory and clearing functions. The test connectors should be disconnected for normal driving. Connecting one connector will flash the codes in memory. Connecting the other connector will erase the ECU memory. Or maybe connecting both connectors does one of thsoe functions. It's been awhile since i've done it. You should also be able to just disconnect the ECU entirely either the plugs to it or pull the fuse if it has one or disconnect the battery overnight.

I routinely - like 100 times - have removed the alignment bolt without getting an alignment. Mark the top strut mount bolt *head* and the strut body with a chisel. Take a picture of the marks on the bolt head and strut body for good measure before removing. Reinstall with marks in same position. Very easy.

Depends on parts. Subaru only: head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, spark plug wires (or get NGK elsewhere), axles (used are fine), water pump gasket, wheel bearings, timing components, radiator cap and thermostat. Rockauto for brakes, and brake hardware, air filter, oil filters, and many other things you can tolerate shipping for Your favorite local retailer like advance, autozone Oreilly etc. NGK plug wires only KYB struts only

My lack of confidence has to do with EJ25 HGs generally, not your work. Haha. As GD said The radiator caps can have compromised gaskets. Also the radiator necks can having pitting or chips that prevent proper sealing of the cap gasket. Id just expect (maybe incorrectly) some other symptoms like coolant loss at the cap or improper levels/flow/bubbling in the overflow if that were the case. But I haven’t seen too many symptomatic radiator caps.

New subaru timing belt and pulleys. Those old school tensioners rarely fail and can be kept. While the timing belt is off, replace the cam seals, cam orings, crank seal, reseal the oil pump (one oring and RTV) and tighten the backing plate screws. Inspect or replace the knock sensor while the engine is out for the clutch job. Remove the 12mm bolt and look at the base - the rubber starts to crack where it sits on the engine block. In the past if I plan on the engine being around awhile I'd just replace it because over time they are the single most common sensor failure on that vehicle by a loooooong shot. New valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, air filter If you want new headgaskets use Subaru head gaskets, resurface the heads, clean and lube the bolts/threads, and properly clean the deck (no wire wheel or sanding). They rarely need valve jobs, the valve stem seals and guides aren't prone to issues on those. The 97 legacy alternators I think work in a 1995 and are only $70 from Subaru: part number 23700AA211. They're still not as good as new OEM but still a great price and beats the local auto parts garbage. If you're in a rust prone area inspect or replace the brake pad clips. If they're original and not rusty and it will see salt then consider keeping them since new aftermarket clips rust much faster than the original OEM's. Or just get OEM pads if they're still available that come with the cilps. Subaru pads are excellent and last way longer than average aftermarket cheaper pads. Frequently cars that sit in salted areas will accrue rust around the pad backing plate and clips that creates easy hang up spots. New pads will hang on those rust ridges and compromised pad clips and wear out in well under a year.

Ah, got it. No need to pull the engine, timing marks can be inspected in half an hour.

I've seen those exact symptoms but of course rule out simpler things. Check coolant levels, I've seen cool running due to inconsistent coolant levels...though only in EJ25's with known headgasket issues though no overheating (external leaks). Can the fans run at the wrong times (flaky fan sensor?) causing over cooling sometimes and overheating others? Never seen it so it's just a wild guess.