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Belt marks aren't needed as long as cams and timing cover marks are perfect. 1. Why did you have to use a new crank sprocket? Is there some damage or issue that might help us in this saga? A. Unplug the cam and crank sensor connectors, see if pins are compromised and ensure they're fully seated when plugging back in. B. Verify the correct timing marks were used and they're alignment is correct. C. Check the cam and crank sensors for damage to the sensor, connector, or wiring. If still striking out - verify the crank sprocket you swapped is the right one (there are two for that year).

Headgasket. check other things for proper function. Look for bubbles in the overflow while it’s running or after turning the engine off. If you had the engine apart it seems like bad water pump vanes would have stood out.

Be nice to know what actual CVT failures happen and what causes, or prevents, them. Granted this isn't the same, but I think it would take strong evidence to convince people that short duration 1 quarter engine oil changes are better than a traditional full change. So I'd guess a full change is *better*, but whether it matters or is worth the time is another thing. I don't think anyone knows the causative mechanisms behind CVT failure and what role fluid, if any, plays in it. Does CVT fluid degrade, get overheated, or get particulate matter in it?

I’m not well versed in grease so I don’t have a technical reason. But I use Valvoline synthetic and any name brand synthetic in the past. With seeing the old dried up nearly nonexistent grease chunk out in pieces, or old watery grease pour out of old joints when disassembled, it seems like having actual useable grease is more important than brand. totally makes sense just swapping in new axles. It’s ideal. Regrease is an option for unavailable options, keeping a back up, or for those already doing more than average axle work with lifts or off-roading.

Michelin cross climate II I guess your local snow maintenance is decent if you’re not asking about snow tires

On 2009 and earlier axles: Clicking while accelerating has been inner joint 100% of the time IME. Ive regreased a number of OEM and MWE (no longer an option) axles with 100% success rate. They were always dry or the grease pours out like water. A guy I know pulls both axles and swaps the joints left to right since load and wear shift “to the other side”. Though I wonder how much of that “success” is the clean and regrease required to swap guts

Yes, if it’s an oem or oem style pump there’s a sock inside the intake line side of the pump.

Did you test output in anyway - if installing another pump- run it before connecting the output hose so you can see it coming out and tell if it's muddy from internal tank rust. Was the sock on the old pump clogged at all? If a used fuel pump was installed then there's no telling it's any good. I swapped 3 used fuel pumps in a 1987 XT years ago and all three pumps weren't usable.

CARB converters are aftermarket converters intended to be equivalent to OEM and won’t give any performance gains for your engine. aftermarket converters are cheaper and not as emissions efficient as original converters installed at the factory (OEM). They use less of the expensive catalysts to make them cheap - and that’s why they can cause check engine and emission compliance issues. So CA requires CARB compliance which simply means aftermarket converters have to meet higher requirements, or are much closer to OEM specs. They’re more expensive because they have more expensive catalyst and ECON 101 supply and demand. There’s less demand for them. Ignoring all the converter stuff there’s practically zero gains to be had for performance efficiency in the exhaust of a *non turbo* engine. That 08 Forester will have unimpressive 0-60 times no matter what is done to it except forced induction. Entirely removing the converter will have zero practical performance gains. You can have a shop (or do it yourself, Ive done it) make a short section of straight pipe to bolt up to the exhaust. for that matter just unbolt it and run open LOUD exhaust one day to get “free flowing” exhaust and you’ll notice it doesn’t run any different. Happens in the rust belt where exhausts rust off. Those options will result in a tiny performance difference from hoping and pressing the gas pedal more aggressively. None of that is true for turbo engines. Completely different beasts. This can make it deceptive for those scouring online forums or listening to locals talk at work or Friday night at the bar. Just because Atticus installed a high flow exhaust and gained a bunch of power in his turbo doesn’t mean a non-turbo car owner can do the same.

What "part"? Axles don't have bolts, do you mean the 32 mm axle nut and threads it threads onto are damaged? Did you pound the outer CV joint threads that go through the hub and wheel bearing? As you found out, that compresses and damages the threads. Just the outer CV joint (with the 32mm threads/nut) can be removed and replaced, but it requires technique and a lot of force. But if the two axles aren't the made by same company I'm not sure they always play well together.

I’m unsure but it doesn’t seem like rod knock. Since it didn’t do it with the previous head then Occam’s razor suggests it’s probably something with the: 1. Used head 2. Timing belt components (since those were removed for the head swap) 3. Very unlikely it’s something that just happened to start making noise exactly when the new head was installed.

Ah I see that. Thanks. OP how do you know the fuel is good? that’s MPFI and requires more psi than carbed engines. starting fluid excellent suggestion.

88-91 XT relays are on the upper left of the photo you posted, above that brownish connector tucked agaisnt the side wall behind the fuse panel. But how can a relay fail and still allow the car to start and run for a moment? Sounds like a waste of time to me but maybe someone can chime in which relay (fuel pump?) and how they fail that allows them to prime and start but not run? I'd pull the fuel line first and see if fuel flows out like normal. Remove fuel clamp, point hose in bucket while priming and trying to start the vehicle. If you're not sure what the flow is supposed to look like video it and post a link. It should roughly look like a garden hosing flow water. Or of course even better - the proper test is to put a Tee in with a fuel pressure gauge.

Does it go to 3k immediately and die without running more than 2 seconds, or does it do it once you hit the gas pedal? Or randomly? Will it stay running if you keep your foot on the gas before it "drops to 0"? Have you tried "read memory" mode to see if there's more codes than just that one? Any modifications or recent work to the engine or wiring? 1. check/test/clean out the idle control valve - they get carbon build up and stick internally 2. Check fuel pressure. 3. Check the contacts/connector wiring of the CTS. The contacts inside the connector get badly corroded so installing another sensor doesn't help. It's also very common to need to replace the entire pigtail and some wiring if the corrosion has crept back up under the wiring insulation. This is very common on these. I've even cut a notch in the CTS sensor, cut the plastic connector off and soldered new wire directly to the CTS terminals to bypass bad old gen connectors and wiring. There's a common fuel injector plug that's a direct fit but I'm not sure if 86 differ in anyway from 88-91 I'm more familiar with. 4. The wiring on these old engines tends to "break" and have poor contact inside the insulation very close to the connectors on the engines themselves. And I've seen this happen with no trouble code/check engine light. Massage the wiring from each connector where it plugs into the engine and your way back about 4-6". Do this while the engine is running or trying to start multiple times. That's how I've found a few. If it changes while you're doing it or throws a code - you found the issue. CTS, idle control, throttle position. Oddly even though there are far more of them I've not seen/heard of it happening to injector connectors.

Pardon my dumb question I'm sure I'm reading this wrong but are you sure that's the right thermoswitch you're looking for? Since it has a pressure switch I can only imagine that being the A/C or transmission - is that the thermoswitch someone wired funny? Correcting custom wiring can be confusign when you don't know what the previous owner did. Can you post a larger picture of that same diagram? Or tell me what section and page it's on (I Have XT6 FSM's).

Call local Subaru dealer. Pin is the same as all legacy Outback Forster Impreza 1990-2004 and later so probably in stock. Message me an address and I’ll ship you one. Use a local UPS store address if you don’t want to give out home address. I wouldn’t use “any 6mm pin”. I’ve used a variety of things before temporarily but it’s been awhile so I forget what. So try something but I’d consider anything but OEM a temp fix. I wouldn’t something else to not fatigue or rust over time.

It beeps when you're approaching another object at a high rate of speed. If you have heavy feet on both pedals or are in congested areas it's going to beep a lot as you outpace the slower vehicles in front of you. It'll also beep if a vehicle is coming up behind you quickly around the blind spot and it receives steering input similar to a lane change. At first the side view mirror lights flash to grab your attention but ramps up to beeping if it escalates.

Wow, very nice. Why wouldn't someone buy that!?

Oh yeah. They can get seriously wedged in there. If it’s an automatic you can remove the axle from the hub first. Then yank hard on the axle and it’ll pull the stubby shaft out of the trans. It’s just held in with a circlip. bw careful when it comes out that you don’t damage the shaft seal in the trans then you can at least work at it on easier or ask a machine shop to do it. Ive had plenty of objects jammed in there and gotten them out every time on the vehicle. Use a proper sized punch and tap it back the opposite way it was jammed in there while wiggling, wriggling and cussing for a long time. They’ve always come out but often with a lot of effort and tools available. a drill bit can work but they’re brittle and break easily with impact. If you had to try one again use them backwards so the drill side which is flat is entering the cv joint hole first. If it’s a manual the shaft can’t be removed and you have to get that hole freed up.

The stubby shaft stays with the transmission, it's not part of the axle. Punch the pin out (3/16" I think) and the axle slides right off the stubby shaft. Slide the new axle on and punch the pin back in. Keep in mind the axle only slides onto that stubby shaft one way. The holes line up two ways but it can be 180 degrees off. Look at the splines and how they are oriented with the holes. One side the valley is in the middle, the other side the peak is in the middle of the hole. Hard to explain but just look at how the splines interact with the two holes in the CV alxe cup when you remove it and you'll see. You guessed right. They are configured and installed exactly like EJ axles. I have EJ axles on mine (though it takes some extra steps to convert, they don't directly swap although I've seen people do it before!).

Okay, remove the headliner and map lights. Apparently they differ across years/models. I've removed trim between headliner and sunroof and the bolts are accessible under the headliner and through the sunroof assembly itself If the sunroof doesn't move at all, that may inhibit bolt access for some. On some models you remove the light fixture up front and there's an access to manually move the sunroof.

Is it using coolant? I'd guess the coolant or oil getting into the combustion chamber is causing poor ignition and drivability issues, not compression loss. If it got really bad I'd expect it to be blowing exhuast gas into the coolant and impossible to mitigate overheating. The tough part is the "wrong torque specs". Are you sure it was the wrong specs? If it weren't for that I'd be close to condemning this engine. Sounds like it's been through D-Day without a helmet. Two owners ago ditched it with some reworked or replacement parts (as indicated by the pop up sensors) but wasn't worth keeping or following through on Prior owner - it was too bad or too cheap to fix Somewhere in that mix was a autoshop that pawned it off without fixig it Now there's more issues I'm assuming too much and making it sound worse than it probably is. But all of that is suspicious. Maybe with some flat heads, block check, and proper torque down it's all good, don't know.

It should be a full sunroof that slides back. Yours is just one right (it doesn't have a moonroof and sunroof dual does it, I don't think that's an option in 2011?). The headliner should have an obvious formed portion beyond the sunroof where the sunroof assembly extends to receive the retracted sunroof. It should fully retract. 1: When you press the left button, the one that "does nothing", do you hear the motor try to do anything or it just does nothing? The buttons/controls are probably the issue, not the sunroof. May be able to fix them. If the leak could be anywhere near the controls, that could even cause them to be flaky. Dry it out and it may function fine. You shouldn't have to touch the headliner, the entire sunroof assembly is replaceable without removing the headliner.

Please don't say it that way! reaching the era where finding an OEM one on the vehicle is practically impossible.

EA82 are green - so starting in 1985 at least. Unsure about earlier EA81.