idosubaru

Ha! I thought so. That’s great. That was me, though I changed my username since then so it may be less recognizable. Some auto parts stores will rent for free or loan tools out and may have it if you want to DIY. That kit is too awkward and heavy to pack and ship and then ship back for a one time use or Id suggest you borrow mine.

A new cam, new cam seal, and it still leaks from the ID of the seal? Wow. I'd wonder if the cam carrier is allowing the cam to walk or is otherwise distorted? Cam carrier/head may need replaced?

Good job catching that pan/solenoid, I've seen a few of those solenoid connectors broken before for the same reason.

EA82, RX, XT6 - all of them will work, they all interchange the same as far as bolting to an EJ22. So you're good to go.

looks like a good try, looks like standard aquarium hose available at wal mart or other places so when it dries out/cracks should be easy to swap out. Proprietary hoses are annoying. If it's relatively easy I'd clean it afterwards and store it out of sunlight and wrapped up to prevent UV/O2 exposure, I wouldn't expect great longevity from that. I've been around a reasonable amount of fluid pumps and small cheap hobbyist ones are prone to fail. A local large land scaping company quotes new pumps for many jobs and throws them away. It's not worth their time to maintain/expect them to work because they have so many issues with them. harbor freight has a few options but none look compelling over that one you posted.

It sounds hosed. But I agree that is interesting for it to go downhill the way you described. I assume the pan isn't damaged/dented right? The ATF pick up is insanely close to the pan, denting in the wrong spot can inhibit fluid uptake. Ideally this would have been attempted when it was still drivable but disconnect the TCU entirely - does it drive then? It'll run in purely mechanical mode - no torque converter lock up, no shiftings, 4WD is "locked", permanent 3rd gear no matter what gear the shifter is placed in. But it'll run and drive fine as a test. If some symptoms go away or get worse it might tell you something. And it renders the vehicle usable/movable which is helpful. I drove an unwworthy to repair rust bucket subaru 4EAT many years ago for a year like that. Do you mean ATF and do you mean this vehicle? If not: I'm assuming you meant you've changed the ATF in this car but just in case - a wild theory would be - Maybe the fluid you drained was loaded with trans x and it needs to drink more of it to function?

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Have you tried lessening it to like 40? Can you experiment until you find the maximum pressure they'll take without tripping the light? I'd just guess it's around 40 psi. When you find that maximum it will probably also give you nearly identical gas mileage as 50 psi...all things being equal (which they won't be with changing seasons. 50 is probably "maximum", not a recommended pressure. Tire manufacturers don't give recommended pressures because they don't know the final application/vehicle it'll be installed on.

Yes need a hub tamer. Oddly - didn’t I buy a hub tamer from you like 5-10 years ago?! I thought you used to have one? You can use a press but carefully. Id get Subaru bearings and wheel seals or score a used knuckle. Order a nice clean rust free used one from south or west.

Well done Larry. Enjoy another job well done boss.

How confident are you/him this is an axle noise? Maybe it's the CVT making the noise? Let's assume his diagnosis is correct for a moment: Excellent. A dipstick check isn't very conclusive or condemning. Change the fluid, have the fluid dumped into a clean container and inspect the fluid. Blackstone labs I think can test the particulate matter of CVT fluid and tell you what it is and whether it's more indicative of wear or worse issues. If the noise is an axle and there's no transmission noises then there's a reasonable chance of not having any issues either. CVT's aren't very good at failing quietly. You didn't ask but do not use any parts store axles. They all suck no matter what rando review you read on line. You will not find the holy grail you, or others, think exist. They all suck. Regrease/reboot your original, or install a rebooted/regreased used Subaru axle. Aftermarkets are total trash. All of them. Unless you like gambling with insanely high failure rates and wasting your time swapping axles multiple times. Install a Subaru axle or reboot/regrease the original. They typically last the life of the car. The ones I've regreased/rebooted the old grease just pours out and is absolultely trashy...or it's mostly empty/dry. I've never rebooted a noisy/clicking Subaru OEM axle that didn't drive like new afterwards. I of course avoid ones that have eggregious issues, I don't blindly regrease ones filled with sand (which I've seen before)

car-part.com for used trans pricing and availability. 2013-2017 Outback CVTs are interchangeable even though that database says they are not. I’ve never checked into 2011 comparability but you might have more options than it lists. He’s wise for installing new - saves him and you the headache of used parts issues. And Any aftermarket rebuilt AT for Subarus should be avoided. The glaring omission here is why was he looking and how did he check? ”presumably” - does this mean you just got the car? If so, there’s a good chance you just bought someone else’s problem after they got the same quote and sold it to you. I see this happen all the time. Enough of that Sherlock Holmes talk - back to the omissions: If he checked via the dipstick I wouldn’t consider that a reliable diagnosis. Drain the fluid and check. If it was drained, why was it drained? Or did you have symptoms that promoted looking for issues? Transmissions can have debris in them - the magnetic rings always have built up debris on them over time in the pans. So you’ll need to describe this “shavings”. But yes - “shavings”, in the way I’d use that word is absolutely catastrophic for an AT. That said - I could envision plenty of scenarios where I’d fill it with new fluid and see what happens. As annoying as those are to fill. 2017 CVTs work in 2013s, not sure if they go back to 2011 but that might expand your used options if you need that route

How much/how quickly is it leaking, is it external or internal leak, is it the original gaskets? If it's a slow, external leak, on the original gaskets then you have a really good chance of it working. I wouldn't try if you suspect a reasonable amount of internal leakage. If it's leaking a lot or the gaskets were previously replaced - chances aren't great. If it's an internal leak - it has zero chance of working. This is when I think it can cause problems. This might not be 100% accurate but for example - Normally coolant conditioner is suspended in solution and doesn't "react" until it's exposed to a leak. So it doesn't do anything to cause issues. In an improperly working cooling system the conditioner may be exposed to air pockets, exhaust gases, pressure/temp fluctuations that may encourage it to react internally where it's not suppose to. This may or may not matter or it might take more than one bottle to cause issues, I haven't tried that enough to say. But I'd probably try to diagnose how much/how quickly it's leaking and if it's internal or external before attempting it.

Stateside they're in the $50's from Subaru, that's where I get them. I think they were $40 last time I did it.

Hmm there is that. We have all be there before! not wanting to make it worse or ruin a chance of it being flaky enough to work right again.

Any uncertainty on how long it ran hot, or if turn around time is critical: JDM. If turn around time isn’t critical, or it overheated on someone’s watch that I know: repairing is a reasonable option.

interesting feedback. someone posted earlier about repairing the sensor does that look doable? Do the testing instructions give clues to how to bypass it? GD mentioned ohms… As already stated removing the entire seat is 4 bolts and disconnect the plugs. They drive fine without the seat, ive driven subarus without any front seats at all LOL. So you could remove the passengers seat for testing purposes and still use the vehicle. A second person might help keep the lower metal tabs of the seat from scratching anything inside or outside. They are awkward to wiggle out. But I’ve done gobs by myself and it only takes a few minutes.

Buy a used lower cushion and swap it out. I have one but it’s not worth shipping or rendering my parts car without a seat. Good call - you should be able to mimmick the sensor to always be “on” rather than “off”. I don’t know the functioning of the sensor to say how to do it though. But it’s probably a simple toggle mechanism or limit switch somewhere just on/off. there’s no circuits, ICs, or code embedded in the seat. This sounds like a great solution Im not sure why this feature exists, maybe it’s so the bag doesn’t go off with a short person or pet in the seat who might get injured worse by the bag? But that doesn’t seem likely since it doesn’t take much to trip it and a pet can’t be restrained by seat belts. Or maybe it’s to avoid the passengers side airbag blowing? I just rebuilt a totaled 2017 ans every single bag in the car went off except the passengers side airbag. Even the drivers wheel and passengers side curtain and passengers seat went off but not the passengers bag. That replacement block scenario is bizarre. I don’t know why that’s been so complicated but it seems like it’s gotta be something beyond Subaru Corp going on behind the scenes.

It's listed mileage is 105,000. That's the exact mileage, 105,000, that subaru requires the timing belt to be replaced. So it may be the case that he's listing it for sale because he just got an estimate for the timing belt job. So that might suggest a reason for being sold. I always want to know why a car is being sold. Not just the reason someone gives, but the real reason they're getting rid of it. There's some reason they don't want it - why?

Avoid. A decade old turbo with no known history. I'd suggest an outback as they're larger and heavier and safer because of it. There's no substitute for size and impreza's are small. The highest risk for accidents is 16-19 year olds so safety isn't a bad consideration. Scour the wrecked auto auctions and look at totaled Subaru's - I buy from those places and it seems to me outbacks fare better as the weight suggests they should. There are turbo Outbacks and they come in H6's for a little extra power without the turbo's maintenance, repair, and failure horror stories. Any turbo gas engine is one small failure away from $5,000+ in repairs. My buddies 30k mile cream puff turbo blew up a a year or two ago - $10k repairs. And more. It happens. But let's be realistic - if the kid is looking at this and it's even remotely possible for his parents to be entertaining it - then practicality and finances are obviously of little concern. This kid obviously has free reign to get some sporty aesthetic he's after. That car is nothing remotely close to a good financial or safety decision, so those things probably don't matter much beyond just talking about it. If that's true, let's mitigate all the heat/synthetic oil/intervals/mods/maintenance issues possible with a turbo. I would want documentation on timely synthetic oil changes. Those engines are extremely unforgiving. Non-turbo's - who cares, don't let it get low and change it sometimes and they're fine. Turbo's...they like to blow up if you give them a reason. Get the VIN and pull all the data on it - VIN check, carfax, ask owner for maintenance history, and call the local subaru dealers to see what's been done to it. Pay particular attention to the oil changes and oil/cooling/turbo related work/repairs/modifications. At a minimum it needs a timing belt job ($1,000 at a dealer if it's done properly with Subaru belt, pulleys, tensioner). Mileage doesn't matter, it'll well past the age limit.

Who replaced the headgaskets?

Did you see signs it was worked on before? If so then your guess is highly likely - they had parts in a bag and mix and matched when reassembling.

Good question - I’d rather walk 50 miles barefoot while brushing teeth than pulling those in a yard. The H6 shims I’ve done have always needed reduced, not increased. So I just do it the easy way and grind down the backsides to gain the clearance instead of doing that baffling shim matching voodoo.

Usual culprits are front diff or front axle. If you mimic the same conditions that cause the noise but do it while 1. Going straight 2. Turning left and 3. Turning right 4. Uphill, are there any differences? A free test, or waste of time, would be to swap both front axles left to right. This reverses the loading and will change the noise if it’s axle related. But if they’re old and may need new grease or boots this might not be a total waste of time. Is either axle a non OEM replacement? Those are highly problematic when new and with age. Or They can also just need grease - the grease gets old and will just pour out like liquid. Cleaning and regreasing can quiet them up Change diff fluid and look for any signs of metallic particles or chunks in it. Driveshaft ujoints or carrier bearing and potentials but I’d expect

absolutely. I pour it through a cheap cabin filter or whatever you have laying around. As to the clutch issues I imagine you'll know what's wrong when you take it apart but probably a decent change the fork or pivot have failed.