idosubaru

You said 30 ohms - how did it compare to the others or did you look up specs? Bad ECU's can cause injectors not to fire, though I haven't heard of them causing one to fail. I'd look up the FSM procedure for testing the circuit. ECU is easily accessible in passengers side footwell under carpet/dash if you need to trace wires from injector to ECU. I don't have it memorized but I don't think injector wiring is too complicated, can probably just test resistance/continuity from one side to ECU and the other to ground.

Get a new Subaru block with 3 year 36,000 mile warranty ( I think I heard they even bumped the mileage component up higher). https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-GENUINE-LEGACY-FORESTER-IMPREZA-SHORT-BLOCK-ENGINE-EJ253-2006-/283726043624?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0 (Resurface the heads first - like $150, no need for a full valve job. And use Subaru gaskets) If you're buying used get a 2008-2009 legacy or outback engine. There are ways to get other year/engines to work. You do not have a JDM engine and federal/CA shouldn't matter for just replacing the block. You're not replacing the electronics or converters.

Baja turbo rear springs offer minor improvements decent for many OBW situations. They can stay level or better with a couple hundred pounds of two average/light rear passengers and gear in the rear and towing…depending on weight distribution and tongue weight of course. For really high loads, heavy passengers and gear, heavy towing and zero tolerance - then king springs.

You should just need a standard non turbo EA81 axle. Rockauto only lists one variation: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1985,brat,1.8l+h4,1267747,drivetrain,cv+axle,2288 You can reboot yours. I've done this with 100% success rate and it always works though I'll avoid ones trashed with south georgia pecan tree access road sand or mountain coal field aggregate. I wouldn't be confident of axle parts interchanging, the axles/splines/ball/cups aren't all the same.

Did you ever have a client have that issue while you were working on them!?

Subarus (and probably others I just don't know) are well known for passing any wheel bearing test. There's no one test that positively identifies all failing wheel bearings.

2 years - wow, that's got to feel good to be done with that! With those extra parts replaced maybe you can keep those annual PA inspections at bay for awhile (if those are state wide?) If the title didn't say front, we would have landed on rear wheel bearings first since that's by far the most common issue on 2006 Outbacks. 05-06's have an extended 100,000 mile/8year rear bearing warranty because of it. Very well known. The title saying "Front" steered us wrong. Otherwise this would have been easy for folks very familiar with Subaru's due to that issue. I say all that because it would be good to keep that in mind for the other side. Even if they've already been replaced after 15 years if they were aftermarket, that's just as bad, if not worse. I just replaced the same exact part number as yours in a 2008 rear. It was already replaced with aftermarket 14 months ago and already failing. And that's not the first time I've seen that. I've never seen a replaced Subaru bearing fail. May have had multiple issues - the title said "rumble", now described as "screaming", and it says front when it was rear. That's really odd to mistaken front/rear for a noise. I don't have good hearing, usually working on older/noisy cars and we have horrendous roads and i still never even remotely confuse front/rear. You may have had one failure, the wheel bearing, and maybe some other noisy components too.

Probably too small and tedious of a procedure for a bra and a curved surface but I’d look into heat and razor. There’s a few options: Prolonged direct sunlight, heat gun, plastic razors or metal razors. I’ve had some adhesives peal off surprisingly easy (relative to how bad I thought it would be) with copious heat.

That's unfortunate. I'm in a similar boat wondering if the trans is hosed: I just rebuilt a totaled 2013 outback that had the lines severed from the wreck, so I was assuming the trans could be hosed. I'm done the body/welding and now have to wonder if the trans is shifting poorly and noisy for some other reason or it just needs replaced. I've already bought the transmission. 1. Do you have any check engine light codes or is the AT flashing 16 times at first start up? 2. Drain and refill the pan for two reasons. You'll get a look at how much debris/metal/swirls are int he fluid (or none at all). And if there's any significant debris that's in the pan and obstructing the pick up screen you'll get that out. Although if that's the case I'd guess that's horrible news for a trans. Also consider replacing the filter if this debris is a concern. I would guess a new transmission is in your future. If rust and bushings are in reasonable shape it's worth considering to keep. Those two things can start long drawn out maintenance. I would buy a JDM or used transmission locally. Those H6's are very reliable transmissions. I have a JDM trans with low mileage I haven't installed yet I'd sell but distance is a killer. Just drove to atlanta last month I could have popped that in the back of my forester.

Yeah rob them off of basically any MT Subaru you find in a yard or laying anywhere if you want used ones. I’ve got them laying around but I’d never be able to go find one at will lol.

I get them from the dealer. They’re the same part as a legacy Imprezas BRZ or Crosstek so subaru will have them in stock. I work on XTs 10x more than other EA82 models but they’re also EA82 and should be the same. I have an EA82 in an XT in my driveway now ive installed new clips from Subaru in it One time someone here said they’re just to help assembly and not strictly necessary?!?!

What do you mean missing? Is the threaded portion sheared off flush or part way? Or is the entire gasket seating rim surface also damaged? Get high mileage filters and RTV the filter on with The Right stuff would be the easy method. but then you have oil filter changes to contend with. High quality oil filters can be changed every other oil change but that’s unthinkable for most. Im not sure if there’s room insitu but I’d see if the EJ and EZ “oil coolers” could be used as adapter. the cooler would have a new oil filter receiver on the other side to screw on to. Tap the ID of the EA housing to the pitch of the cooler hold down bolt. Bolt it in place and you’ve got a new oil filter mating surface on the opposite side. No need to use the cooling fittings. You’d need a hold down bolt next to it to compare. I don’t have any handy or I’d take a picture next to an EA pump I just looked at. This won’t be ideal if the engine has warn and problematic oil delivery throughout the engine since it may reduce flow characteristics. If you have a questionable engine compare the oil flow rate from a Forster to the EA82. They’re found on 01-04 H6s, early 2000s foresters and other models. There may even be aftermarket “oil filter adapters” or something that would do something similar.

Works on 2004 and earlier subarus before the rear sensor became more utilized by the ECU. Pre 2004 the rear sensor data is practically used as just a toggle switch “good” or “not good”. Very good success rate and worth trying in areas that are not asinine on inspections. They’re available premade on eBay for cheap There were also mini catalytic converter like inserts you screw in front of the O2 sensor that had a minuscule amount of catalyst just for the sensor stream. But I haven’t seen one for a few years and I never used those.

Yep - if they do make noise it'll be facing up a steep hill, from a stop making a right or left turn with steering wheel at full lock and accelerating up hill through that turn. It'll be a deeper knock knock as opposed to the outer joint click clicks.

I’d trace the known issues specifically the code and back track that wire if you have no voltage and think you should. I’m busy and only have this a cursory glance so I may be mis understabding To confirm in case you’re hesitant since you still have issues - AT and MT ECUs are interchangeable. ATs and MTs can in a few years, particularly that 00-02 range you’re in, have differing trigger points on the crank and cam sprockets which does lead to some swap and “signal” issues. This can make for some uncertainty in commentary online as people discuss this. There are issues swapping some things but are no issues swapping just the ECU like you did.

that's fantastic. Definitely wondering what you get from this. You've already replace everything - TCU and trans 3 times - the only thing left is the harness or a ground causing fuzzy signal. I ignored that though - I can't imagine that impacting only that one sensor. Those 00-04's transfer system seems too simplistic for the transfer solenoid to be impacted by any other sensors.

Awesome, good find. How positive are you it was exhibiting the issues at the time of testing? It may have just not had a bad connection during testing. I wonder if there's a way to monitor that wire during driving so you can see what's happening when it has issues and when it doesnt?

Splice in a new wire from the body side trans connector harness for the Transfer solenoid to it's destination, which I think is the TCU. It's only one wire I believe. You can even use those little "clip in splices" that don't require cutting any wires just for a test run. Then make sure to properly do it and tape it up to protect it. Ohmed it from where? I think you want to wait for the light to be on and symptoms present and test for continuity of the transfer solenoid wire from the body side harness to the TCU. Of course the issue may be so intermittent that it won't fail the test.

Can you trace each wire at the trans harness engine compartment passengers side? If it’s giving a code jt shoud narrows down which wire it is If it’s wiring, Presumably it’s bad from the connector to the TCU. From the connector to rhe trans can’t be bad since that was replaced three times with each trans swap I’m suspicious that maybe it could be bad around where the connector plugs - somewhere that was disturbed when you did the trans swaps since it “seemed to get better” after the job. Maybe moving it around changed it? and that area gets a lot of abuse during engine pulls headgaskets and in MTs trans clutches, I know that’s this isn’t a MT just examples - etc it’s prone to have misplaced and damaged wires more so than other areas. check the top harness where the engine trans mates on the passengers side. Look for signs of rodent damage or pull the plug and check for vent pins. Look for signs of prior accident or flooding issues or moisture issues etc where the TCU or wiring resides I’d try to look for obvious damage. In my experience stuff like this is often related to some prior incident. i had a bunch of codes on an 02 outback. Tracing lead me to wires under passengers seat feet carpeting - Pulled the passengers side carpet and what do you knkw - mouse droppings and chewed wiring. spliced and done. And there was no signs of mice in this car otherwise and damage was one small area

Prime them but don’t sweat it. If they’re new and the engine is good they should self prime in the engine too. What you want to avoid is seized/failed ones or one so flat the rocker arm falls out when you first start the car. Otherwise bleeding the HLAs is rather benign and unimportant. You can install them without bleeding and they’re fine 99% or the time if they’ve been sitting in oil. Cars that sat for 10 have loud HLAs then pump up and are fine. When removed from soaking for install air can easily be introduced and no one has had any issues in 40 years. They’re very forgiving. Besides problematic old engines and HLAs. Prime them of course but don’t think they’re sensitive like some systems. Like burping an EJ25 or bleeding brakes. This isn’t like that.

Alignment. Probably been done but don’t see it mentioned. Aftermarket axles are garbage. All of them. Numerous issues I don’t have time to type it all out or share the horror stories or why it’s not as commonly known. It is interesting the tire changed the noise. Different load on those trash axles and it couldn’t take it. Used Subaru axles with new Subaru boots are far superior to aftermarket. Probably can get away with aftermarket boots if you’re not in an extreme environment. Ours see winter road salt and chemicals and degrade faster than Subaru boots. I’m assuming the chemicals degrade them faster just based on what I know about materials science and seeing them fail sooner so I may be wrong. But they can fail in 5 years instead of 10. Might not matter to some so aftermarket is probably reasonable for boots for some people. Subaru axles last the life of the vehicle and should never be replaced. Shops just do it because it’s easier and the make the same money as a reboot.

I’ve installed legacy springs on outback struts. don’t recall what it did to the overall height as I didn’t install them on a legacy. I’d guess you get a 1” lift instead of 2”.

Summary: Buy a lower cushion the color you want and with or without heated seats from a 2014-2018 Forester and you fixed the occupant detection issue. At least - assuming the used seats doesn't have the issue. 1. If you can - find a 2017-2018 model that's already had it repaired. You can search if recalls are done online using the VIN if you can find the VIN if it's already been done or not. 2. Or buy a 2014-2016 since they're not listed on the recall and likely less prone to issues. The bottom seat is fully plug and play - it bolts in and out, the detection system, heating elements, electronics, wiring, are all in place within the seat. The bottom doesn't have airbags. No other parts needed. The air bags are in the top portion of the seat you lean back against, so that's why this is done, to retain the airbags: The upper portion is practically worthless if the airbag goes of so the lower seats are still good in wrecked vehicles and not in high demand. *Remember this all assumes the issue is in the seat. I think they replace the "rear harness" or something like that, but I'm not sure. Does this mean the seat harness or does this mean the wiring that plugs into the seat harness? I'd check that before proceeding. Subaru has a TSB for it -you can skim it and see if there's any useful information in there. I've swapped 2014-2018 lower forester seats - they're all plug and play interchangeable, so whatever that TSB says should be useful for your 2014 even though it's not indicated in the recall.

It's my understanding they replace the seat bottom, or replace something in the seat bottom. So swapping in a lower seat cushion is all you need. Which means you can grab a lower seat cushion off of a seat with blown airbags and install it (which I've done before). The recall is for 2015-2018 Foresters with heated seats (i think) but surely yours is probably the same issue, the seats and seat air bags are all interchangeable 2014-2018 so they're very similar. I've rebuilt these before and worked on a couple. The seats are super crazy easy to replace or swap the lower cushion. 1. Unbolt each 14mm (or 12) bolt - two on the front rails and two on the rear. Pop off the plastic covers to see the ones in the rear. 2. Lean seat back and disconnect wiring to remove the entire seat 3. Remove plastic covers and theres 3 12 or 14 mm bolts on each side holding the top and bottom seat cushions together. Remove those 3 bolts on each side, install another lower cushion and install in reverse. It's very easy and does not take long at all. Of course diagnosing it would be smart but this issue is common, dealers usually have the parts in stock to do it around here.

I'd swap another MAFI bet you have easy access to those too? I had a 90's Phase I EJ hesitate sometimes (I don't recall when it hesitated) for a year, was perfectly drivable but annoying, and then trouble starting ocassionally for a month, never had any codes. Then one day it randomly tossed a MAF code, swapped it, and it ran perfectly. Fuel pressure regulator? Fuel injector? Another big anecdotal meaningless experience: I had a 2000-ish forester with slight running issues and no check engine light. I checked the easy/obvious things, had already installed new headgaskets/knock sensor as well and when I swapped the entire intake manifold it fixed it. I kept the intake for awhile and wanted to diagnose and test the few components on it but never did.