idosubaru

This isn’t the one you need?: 20204AG011 https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2014_Forester/Suspension-Control-Arm-Bushing-Front--Rear/49229111/20204AG011.html https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2014_Forester/94606990__6025310/FRONT-SUSPENSION--16MY1604/S13-200-01.html Superpro has some subaru bushings. You can also make your own with urethane.

Drove one hour, 30 mile round trip, mountain roads on just the battery today while starting with the NOCO genius boost. Battery showed 12.47 V when I got home.

Yep. Installed a new battery, it was 6+ years old though it did charge back up fine. Used genius boost for starting, pulled day time running light fuse, tried to avoid brake pedal (to limit rear tail light usage). Made it home, put it on charger, drove to work today with no alt. I'll keep doing that until the ordered one arrives in the mail. 6 cylinder subaru's use a three wire alternator (4 cylinders are 2 wire and simpler) with reference voltage the ECU uses to affect alternator charging. In rare cases the alternator will put out less, like 9 volts, due to poor grounding compromising that reference signal. Measure the voltage at the battery posts and ground via the alternator body. If there's a large voltage difference there's a reference wire grounding issue. It's really rare and I assumed it was the alternator, but it was a good opportunity for me to experientially learn to test for it. I've worked on some triple digit number of Subaru's so there's a reasonable chance I'll see it some day and part of my seemingly irrelevant questions.

Measured 9 volts at battery terminals and at alt output. Test more when I get home or take battery in tomorrow for testing Trying to decide wether to make it home I’d rather not try to find a battery Sunday night. I guess Walmart is open, but I try hard to avoid that hole. Lol

Can a bad battery cause a low alternator output? I get 9 volts while running, belt and balancer look fine. Is that definitely alternator or could be battery?

It's almost always tire pressure or a failing tire sensor. Check to make sure there are no recalls or TSB's about reprogramming the TPMS for your year/model Is there an aftermarket sensor in any of the tires? I've seen good results with aftermarket but it would be expected for them to have higher failure rates. I highly doubt this is the case but if you're speculating 80 mph is a causation and not a correlation: The only physical way I could see speed causing this is if on insanely hot roads with over pressure tires - the heat soak at 80 mph causes the pressure to just exceed the range expected by the TPMS. I think it more likely that a TPMS sensor battery is just at the cusp of failing and performing worse at those higher speeds/G forces.

Can you have the oil test done again or at another dealer?

I use carparts.com for rad support and headlights sometimes. I hit a deer two weeks ago too, glad you got him on the road to getting fixed back up.

Did you search for any TSBs or recalls? Some year FBs have broken valve spring issues. I think it’s just Impreza/Crosstek but I’d check.

How did you figure it out? First post said Legacy, no mention of OB. I thought you meant 05 legacy to an 08 legacy. Were you trying to swap outback parts onto a legacy?

Can’t confirm. Did you check radiator support? If that’s the same in 05 and 08 then everything forward will bolt up if it matches the bumper, fender, grill and undercarriage attach points. Did you check the grill? I’ve seen bumpers shaped differently around the grill due to grill differences in same generation 2005+ Subarus. can’t recall which years/models.

Good find. I’m not picturing how it’s mounted and it’s too hot to go outside and look but I’m wondering why it does it when pushing gas. Seems like Undercover should be steering/incoming air direction or speed related not gas pedal related. Can’t picture any of those fasteners being connected to engine/trans mount that would shift under initial gas pedal torque. Those plastic undercovers and clips get beat. Clips often broken and missing. Hope that nails it. You might have good ears and a quiet car. I don’t think I’d have the luxury of noticing!

No, and a visual inspection will probably strike out if your symptoms are so light. You'd need a pry bar and maybe to get the weight off the wheels. I'm pretty sure it's your heat shields since you keep ignoring those comments and questions. lol Is there a reason you've not responded to multiple heat shield mentions?

Does the "metallic sounding rattle" have any cyclical nature to it like it's something spinning or it's of random frequency or random vibration? Heat shields are the most likely. Usually due to damage from striking something, or rust. That's been said multiple times but you haven't commented on those. They're ubiquitous - I'd guess 50%+ of the 10 year or older vehicles around here have had loose heat shield noises. There's more rust here but it can also be caused by striking debris, etc. checking the aftermraket installed lightbar is a good thought.

I think your car should have a purge valve. Look it up on Subaru website or ebay or image search. It'll be on the intake manifold or possibly the evap canister.

Heat shield. Just the beginning so it's light and hard to find. Does it do it when pressing the gas pedal to *maintain speed, but not accelerate*? For instance when climbing a hill - the gas pedal has to be pressed further to maintain speed up the grade. Does it do it then? Is it ever louder or softer or always the exact same noise no matter the speed? If you replicate the conditions that make the noise (pressing gas pedal a certain amount) - but do so while turning left and right - does it still do it? Does it do it from a stand still, downshifting from any speed, when pressing gas to accelerate to pass or up hill? Have the engine or trans ever been removed?

If they work on Subaru's this is the way to go. They're a beast to remove. Advance and other national chains have free loaner tools, I'd call and ask your local store if they have a steering wheel puller.

Check evap canister, valves (such as purge valve mentioned), and lines. Don’t top off the gas.

I’ve removed a few with no special tools. It’s grueling abs that’s probably an understatement. . Grab the wheel on opposing sides. Literally wear yourself out trying to walk it off the splined shaft. Push one side while pulling the other side, then switch push/pull, and back and forth and back and forth. Do this like hundreds of times when it seems like the wheel isn’t moving at all and you feel crazy even trying while it seems impossibly seized on there. Eventually they come off. If you can direct any heat around the splined shaft without damaging anything do it. But I’ve never used heat on a steering wheel.

If you don’t agree with their oil consumption test results then ask them nicely to do it in a way that you can verify the fill and final check with them. Because it never happens when you change it. Stand outside the bay door, watch through a window, or better yet go to another dealer. How many stars do they have on Google reviews, Social media, etc? Subaru does warranty things out of warranty sometimes. Though if you weren’t able to get it right for 100k then I doubt you’ll have success this time? I have plenty of “bad dealer stories” and yet I also know enough that I could get a proper test done and the current dealer I use would work with me. Or I know a couple others I could go to if needed Its a little surprising you’re this well versed in cars/subarus but couldn’t figure it out before 100,000 miles. It makes me think where you live is full of argumentative litigious Ahats and the dealer has to protect themselves (the outskirts of the sorry a$$ city of Baltimore has these types of issues), you’re abrasive and hard to work with, or that dealer is so bad you should have never went there to begin with. You’re accusing the dealer of lying - work more closely with them, be nicer, or go somewhere else. Expecting more good results from a place you accuse of lying is absurd.

The spacer works great, but only for pre-2005 outback’s.

Install a used or new Subaru axle with fresh grease and boot. Maybe that’ll take care of the issues. Mark retainer location to trans case, count turns and reinstall to same position.

You didn’t answer any questions. We can’t see or touch the car and even simple questions like if it’s an automatic or manual goes unanswered. Diagnosis would be ideal over guessing. Take voltage readings. It takes 4 minutes to take voltage readings and find out what’s going on. That’s less time than posting here, and way less than hours replacing all those parts. It almost sounds like you want a list of more random parts to guess and probably not fix this. Here’s a list you can pick and choose from: Verify battery and alternator and starter at local store. They can test them. It would be zero surprise for one of them to be bad. They’re so unreliable I would install used Subaru starter or alternator before aftermarket. The originals last 20 years, new aftermarkets fail all the time. Replace or check inhibitor switch or neutral safety switch. Replace or check crank pulley for separation that’s compromising charging Replace ignition switch Replace starter relay Selector inhibitor (exact name is eluding me) Replace/tighten/adjust alternator belt Check/disable security system, if equipped

car-part.com or jdm transmission I doubt you have any options. No one knows enough to tell you how to do this and probably no one has done it any statistically meaningful number of times in potential failure situations. You’ll simply get no replies and any reply you get won’t carry much weight Ive had one bad diff I nursed and looked into backlash and preload options and got nowhere. Trans ended up driving poorly and locking up after 10,000 miles or so.

Yes. But it’s almost always the belt so that’s the first check. Remove three 10mm screws on front drivers side timing cover and look. It takes 10 minutes. It’s easy and the best method - has to come off anyway and car is still drivable without it You can also remove rhe distributor cap and turn the engine over - if the disty doesn’t spin when the engine is cranking, the belt and/or pulleys are bad. The disty sensor pick up could be bad. Also an easy fix but far less common. Instalk new belts and idlers. They’re easy to do. Id also install cam cap orings, crank and cam seals and reseal the oil pump with Subaru gaskets while it’s apart. I’d use Subaru seals. All of that requires the belts to be removed to replace anyway. Water pump too - use a Subaru gasket. The aftermarkets are thin cheesy paper and prone to leak.