idosubaru

There are two different tensioners. 1996 has the two piece style, 1997+ has the later one piece style. I don't think AISIN makes a kit for the DOHC EJ25. There are also 2 different EJ25D valve cover gaskets. Make a list of all the parts and part numbers - write them down - and go buy them one at a time. Buy them from Subaru - the online suppliers are discounted 20+% and reasonable. Sometimes ebay has them too - I've gotten the lower idler (the most common one to fail) many times on ebay for $15 or so. Belt, two pulleys, lower idler, tensioner pulley, 4 cam seals, crank seal and oil pump oring and sealant for oil pump. Tighten the oil pump backing plate screws while you have it apart. If cost is an issue skip the water pump. They rarely fail and if they do they just start slowly leaking, nothing catastrophic. If yours was already replaced by a lower grade aftermarket then it's more likely to fail. I don't see any reason to go with lower grade parts but if you absolutely have to here's a kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275271470337?fits=Year%3A1996|Make%3ASubaru&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4017754d01:g:F3YAAOSwamBiWczn&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA8IErHmMC%2BxGnUBa5qjfQVrtcz4QJiZGrzjIYtw1Zd%2B%2BNBDARlBe52BhIHQc7EAfemc4T55faczmGYZB8WlPuNbkyndXeHl3skIaU7qNU%2B197UVoPyVsb9Oc%2FvVQC068t4n%2Fsm8UolyKoj9KVqXgMltCsvMRWTNRdqdkJ0vhYqGZzUpfWX4n780r8BzvZbpQnwfBMnhpELt2vyrJNLk3uCOYtQ9Pw3twYDuIHtlYWuUdRgplgTFYVbFZ%2B5q7YAv2VBSZ7TpSJF2satnSfR9TECZPwU3o%2F0WxqqX2%2BWEyLDRmwDFXvWXXXZ3sEjbA%2BSIoDWQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM4qyzholg

There’s like 13 different ways to do this and you haven’t given us any background. Do you want power or cheap or easy or reliability or what percent mixture of those? Each of those is a huge determining factor in how best to proceed. I’d want reliability first and ensure I’m getting new headgajseys on any EJ25 swap Buy a newer (and better) phase II Subaru EJ25 OEM block for $2,000 and bolt your Impreza heads and intake to it. Then there’s guaranteed fitment with no questions or concerns, new headgaskets, brand new block with 36,000 mile 36 month warranty. They probably won’t honor it on a swap depending on your relationship with your dealer. If you want the plug and play used long block option then get the matching exhaust manifold and EGr configuration from: Any 1996-1998 EJ25 Any 1999 Legacy or Outback EJ25 (not a 99 forester or Impreza RS) You never said if your Impreza has EGR. If you don’t care about check engine lights or can do a little extra work around you can ignore EGR and make any EJ25 work. All the engine I listed plug in and run the exact same in your car even if you ignore EGr. It’s just CEL and emissions and there’s easy work around b If you bolt your Impreza heads to an EJ25 block use 99 Forster/Impreza or 2000-2004 EJ25 block (phase II) I mentioned earlier. You’ll get a compression and HP bump doing this over just using an entire EJ25. And you don’t get tjose bizarre EJ25 DOhC pistons that stick out about the block plane and seem worse than later block variations. You may need to run premium gas but I’m unsure which combos end up needing jt snd which don’t. Even early 96 complete EJ25s sometimes need premium gas too. I think 1996s.

“Performance” here means “how high do you want to lift it and what size tires you running? Jokes aside - Rallitek and others carry performance parts. Adjustable, coil over, etc. Those aren’t very attractive to the practical off road lifted crowd that dominates here. Super Pro makes bushings. They have some Subaru kits and stiffer base materials.

Reseal it - Subaru head gaskets, valve covers, cam seals, cam cap orings, oil pump, install new/rebuilt HLA's, all new timing gear or bearings in them and call it a day. Is there some other issue you're chasing besides oil leaks and valve train noise?

First post digs up an 18 year old thread, were you looking for something?! You're right to discourage using the FWD fuse beyond anything except the intended use or by those very familiar with Subaru's initiating repair options. There's no reason to and it won't offer any gains, mpg or otherwise. Subaru didn't design this system for long term use - that doesn't mean it can't do it. Subaru's more pressing reasons would be money. No reputable business wants a feature like that easily accessible by occupants of the vehicle. They would be too easily confused about when/why it should be used. And it would be perceived as dangerous in the event of a wreck/lawsuit. No way in a billion years Subaru would put that functionality at the whims of whatever person or pet is in the cabin, particularly given the general consumer focus of Subaru's offerings. This lesson Subaru was *reminded* of when they got sued for Subaru brat rear seat injuries in the 1980's. Subaru also didn't design this system to be used *at all* while driving. So the location of the fuse is indifferent from a design perspective. It just needs to be found by anyone with minor mechanical reasoning or willing to read the owners manual in the event of a tire blown or accident on the side of the road. Many people have driven in FWD for long periods of time with no issues. It's silly to do it for "gas savings" reasons though. I have done it for repair reasons, both short term and life of vehicle (far more than 6 months), but definitely not for performance or gas mileage. If you take these transmissions apart there's nothing noteworthy that running in FWD will do. As a matter of fact there's almost no difference between the 4WD and FWD automatics. You can take one out and plug and play install another one they're so similar (I've done it). The computer doesn't even care. If you run FWD all the time The Duty C does stay activated constantly so that could be argued as a downside, but that would be like arguing you should wax your car for improved aerodyanmics and gas mileage. so far those that have done have noted zero issues. And electro-mechanically it's in an ideal environment - as near to a NASA clean room as an average consumer will get. transmissions interiors are essentially closed systems that stay incredibly clean and the Duty C will maintain nearly consistent temperatures due to being submerged in fluid. Electronics hate heat. Also turning electronic devices on and off can lead to premature failure (usually it's at such a small rate it's not noticeable but sometimes it is), due to the way the electrical loading happens at *on* and *off* moments. This is why bulbs frequently blow when they're turned on (or off). Power conditioners can make light bulbs last much longer and provide better performance for anything that requires a signal..even devices (antennas, boosters, etc) in your own home. This might be minor, but so is trying to debate the efficacy of leaving the Duty C powered all the time verses cycling it over and over and over and over.

I’ve got that all-tel EM29 or whatever scanner, it read 4 transmission codes. Will post them tomorrow.

Yeah it seems problematic. It has a bunch of trans codes and whining. Not sure if fuses can be trans related but it’s missing one or two. Seems like bad trans but I’ll check to make sure trans plugs are all connected and no wiring issues, check fuses and drive it some more. want to make sure I avoid replacing the trans and have the same issues.

It ran and drove, that’s where the good news ends. In reverse it drove totally forward like it was in drive, until I cycled it through all stops on the trans selector. Now reverse works. Is that indicative of: 1. Compromised CVT? or, 2. That’s what they always do when fluid gets low and they’re refilled? There’s also some whining and rattling type noises. I’m guessing the transmission is shot but I’ll investigate a little more and look up failing cvt symptoms.

That’s a good options thanks, it has the “original fluid” mixed with whatever I topped it off with.

probably puked oil until the sump couldnt pump any more and oil starvation damaged something which showed itself later. The chain or pump? I think someone knowledgeable mentioned they’re fragile before. Should get a chance to start (notice I didn’t say ‘drive’!) it tomorrow. Theres used CVTs and have a parts car with a Subaru remanufactured unit so I’ve got options. Time sucker but the car was so cheap and easy to repair (airbags didn’t go off) Ill get over it once I’m driving it.

I picked up a wrecked 2013 OBW, the radiator was smashed and ATF lines severed. After temporarily repairing the ATF lines it lot drove in my friends business parking lot but acted odd in my driveway before I started repairing the collision damage. My main concern is if it has CVT issues is the CVT hosed or is it some other artifact of the wreck/repair/sitting? It was listed as "lot drives" at the auction, I'm guessing it was driven after the wreck a little, and/or lot drove for the tow truck/auction loading/logistics, so I assume it was driven low on ATF. I welded in/primed/painted new front supports, new radiator, and am finished the collision repair and am about to start the car up. Any suggestions or comments about what to expect or do if the transmission is acting funny to make sure I properly diagnose the CVT? Maybe it'lll be obvious but the mixed signals before the repair have me wondering. I'll plan on following Subaru's procedures for topping it off and post back any codes I get.

It's been over 2 years that poster may not reply. In case they don't reply. They posted the size it appears to be M18x1.5. My local Advance Auto parts has M18x1.5 *nuts* in stock. Take your bolt from the broken transmission threads into the store and verify it threads into the M18x1.5 nut they have in store. Lowes and Ace Hardware stores often have big boards you can thread bolts into to determine their thread diameter and pitch too. Once you do that then order any M18 x 1.5 fastener, like a plug that he used, should work.

Well done - post here, just watch there, this is the way!

I thought they called for 0W, maybe that’s a couple years after yours. Use 10w-30, I’d probably try 20w-50 personally. Thicker oil is a wet band aid unless you’re lucky. It won’t hurt but may not help. Subaru oil is too low when the light comes on. Maybe I’m conflating EJ/FB engines but I thought 2013 FBs were the same.

It's probably a front wheel flexible brake line. You could check it real quick by doing nothing but jacking the front wheels up. Jack up the front and turn each wheel by hand - one will feel locked. Replace the flexible line to that wheel. If you jack it up and neither is locked, press the pedal and check again. Press the pedal and check again until one wheel locks up and the other doesn't. If one is locked you can go one step further and pry the caliper back with a screw driver between the pad and caliper - don't eve have to remove it just wedge it in there and give it a little back pressure. It doesn't take much. Then press brake pedal and feel it lock up again. The brake hose collapses internally and acts like a valve. You press the brakes, the fluid pressed the pads tight. Let off the brakes and the fluid pressure should ease. But the collapsed hose doesn't allow the fluid pressure to "go backwards" up the line so to speak. I've never heard of this happening to Subaru, just American cars, makes me wonder if yours were replaced before with aftermarket or maybe it can happen to Subaru.

Oil control rings. Use thicker oil and keep topping it off. Or replace the engine or short block. harmless if you keep dumping oil in it. Though probabky not long term catalytic converter friendly if you live in an emissions state. Oil light on these is more like “the engine is being damaged light” rather than a “low oil light”. Subaru offered an extended 100k warranty. call or stop in. you’re past that by 8,000 miles and maybe a year. They ocassionally go beyond the warranty as a courtesy though buying it recently used probably isn’t the greatest fit for them to cover for a variety of reasons. But it’s Colorado, high volume Subaru world - call or stop in and ask This is very common across all manufacturers, though the year ranges impacted vary as to when they rolled out low friction emissions trinket rings the last 15 years. Consumer purchases became the real test bed for emissions/fleet mileage requirements as those demands outstrip the design capability and market to support it. Google “BMW oil consumption”…or whatever manufacturer you want and you’ll see class action lawsuits, extended warranties, complaints of oil usage, etc.

It's so hot where you live, who cares!? I have little turbo experience so I can't offer any advice. But turbo's generate so much heat. If a missing heat shield substantially increases heat loading of the engine bay (and gaskets/hoses/electrical components) I'd be inclined to keep it. Probably not but can it damage the hood paint too? Running hot in summer idling at a red light that hood will get smoking hot.

Nope - none of the seals, gaskets or orings are available from Subaru for 06-09s. Earlier and later models are, but not 06-09. Which is specially asinine since the 05-09s are the least reliable pumps subaru ever made by 1,000 miles. I hate 05-09s just for their steering pumps and weak struts. They’re not even that bad as far as cars go but they fail at a far higher rate in 05-09s than anything Subaru ever made. This coming from someone who has owned 20 or so of Subarus first electric power steering pump equipped cars from the 80s.

1. You’re probably driving around town mostly? 2. What check engine codes exist? 3. Have you read the ECU codes in memory? Post all the codes here 4. Swap another ECU. They fail with age or overcharging alternators and nearly every one isn’t on the original alternator by now. The smell of fuel and poor mileage with most addressable fueling parts replaced is suggestive of ECU issues. 5. Since you smell it this probably isn’t the case but Check caliper slide pins and front ebrake cable to ensure it’s not sticking - clean and grease with high quality grease so they’re effectively stay off the rotors at all times. Are you ever cruising 60mph for 30 minutes or hours straight? That’s the best comparison. If you’re DDing around a town you’re going to get bad mileage particularly in a 6 cylinder. This has been a very common misperception amongst people for the last 10 years as more people drifted to urban settings. I see people all the time who think they aren’t city driving because they work in a town but make escapades here and there to visit family or go to parks. But by and large their commute daily or buying food multiple times a week involves what amounts to city driving. Even in rural areas this holds - people moving to small towns rather than the family farm. Etc.

That's the way to go for older models. Rebuild kits aren't available for 06-09 models. Oddly there's a kit for 05's that isn't specified for 06-09 models even though 05-09 is the same generation and the pumps themselves are interchangeable. brusbrothers was attempting to use that 05 kit on an 06-09 pump but I'm not sure I saw what his finding were.

1. It’s leaking inside the tie rod boots. You need a new steering rack. 2. It’s leaking on top of the engine. Which means it’s either the pump or lines. Check behind and under the power steering pump on top of the block. It’s probably wet and pooled up. New aftermarket pumps leak all the time. They’re all low grade quality. Subaru units are low grade with age and miles, so used isn’t a great option if you’re paying labor. So don’t assume the pump is fine just be user it’s new. Being new makes me *suspect* it. If it’s leaking most shops give a 12 month 12,000 mile waarrahty and they should replace it. 3. steering lines: Follow the power steering lines to and from the reservoir yiure refilling. They can leak under the reservoir or at their opppsite terminal ends.

Thanks. Makes sense, I’ve only seen the 580 mentioned and it seems that’s the form factor for most (or all) CVTs. If this transmission I have is a low mileage Subaru reman like I think I might bug GD wether the CANBUS or TCU would play with a different final drive.

I don't think there are processors in the trans...but you're right, the CANBUS flavored TCU has a good chance of being unkind. I've found two instances of people swapping the same final drive ratio CVT's that aren't listed as compatible: A 2013 OBW and 2014 OBW swap. And 2015 legacy into a 2014 OBW. So "non-interchangeable" CVT's swapping has been accomplished, but not cross platform yet - no { Leg/OBW } to/from {For/Imp/Crosstek} I wouldn't be surprised if Foresters can....or can't....be swapped with OBW CVT's....

Great, glad you got it done! A smoking turbo is not fun to think about when you're driving, glad those days are behind you.

Subaru and salvage yard cross listings don't list them as compatible - but that doesn't mean they can't be interchanged, just like past transmissions. Wondering if a 2014 Forester parts car trans will work in a 2014 Outback? Yes, yes...I already know what Subaru and parts interchanges say. Just like in the early 2000's, and 1990's when they said the same thing...but all the transmissions could be interchanged if the rear diff matched.