idosubaru

Look at stars and reviews on Google, Facebook, Instagram, etc. Favor quantity when scouring reviews. In other words if an online Google and Facebook shows 4.5 stars and hundreds of reviews that’s a lot more robust than 3 anecdotal comments from friends or internet forums about how great a place is.

Yes Sir. Sorry I didn’t mean to suggest they’re exactly the same. They have the same valves and springs part numbers. And sitting them side by side it looks like they took the EJ25 head casting molds and reduced the exhaust ports to one instead of 2. But it was just an illustration that the Phase I and II EJ22s are vastly different. I didn’t mean much more than that by that comment. 1. Phase II EJ22s have headgasket issues 2. we know the best repair approach. Why it happens isn’t a discussion I like to enter online. Practically we know what to do as shown in #1 and #2 above So why doesn’t matter much Subaru tweaked the headgasket designs to mitigate the issue, so that’s often assumed as the root cause. that’s correlation, not causation. Just because Subaru changed the head gasket design doesn’t mean that’s the root cause. Indeed it didn’t entirely solve it - they’re still more prone to head gasket failures at high mileages than other engines, so it’s a little short sighted to single them out as 100% the only causative factor. Subaru would choose the easiest and cheapest way to mitigate. If it’s engine characteristics causing it, they’re not going redesign the block to replace everyone’s engines when a headgasket retooling can accomplish 90% of the intended result. But again that’s just an example, it might be wrong, but the frequent commentary that it’s 100% head gaskets to blame might be missing something too. Seems likely some unforeseen engine characteristics lead to issues, and redesigning the gaskets did a great job mitigating that. They ended up with better gasket tech - but the engine design forced it to happen and it’s still not as good as first Gen EJ22s

Yes Sir. Sorry I didn’t mean to suggest they’re exactly the same. They have the same valves and springs part numbers. And sitting them side by side it looks like they took the EJ25 head casting molds and reduced the exhaust ports to one instead of 2. But it was just an illustration that the Phase I and II EJ22s are vastly different. I didn’t mean much more than that by that comment. 1. Phase II EJ22s have headgasket issues 2. we know the best repair approach. Why it happens isn’t a discussion I like to enter online. Practically we know what to do as shown in #1 and #2 above So why doesn’t matter much Subaru tweaked the headgasket designs to mitigate the issue, so that’s often assumed as the root cause. that’s correlation, not causation. Just because Subaru changed the head gasket design doesn’t mean that’s the root cause. Indeed it didn’t entirely solve it - they’re still more prone to head gasket failures at high mileages than other engines, so it’s a little short sighted to single them out as 100% the only causative factor. Subaru would choose the easiest and cheapest way to mitigate. If it’s engine characteristics causing it, they’re not going redesign the block to replace everyone’s engines when a headgasket retooling can accomplish 90% of the intended result. But again that’s just an example, it might be wrong or it entirely correct, but I wouldn’t buy the frequent commentary that it’s 100% head gaskets to blame. I feel like it’s more likely unforeseen engine characteristics lead to issues and redesigning the gaskets did a great job mitigating that. They ended up with better gasket tech - but the engine design forced it to happen and it’s still not as good as first Gen EJ22s

You don’t need to change it. Brake fluid is listed in the 60k service interval. Therefore change it if you have an extended warranty (yours is probably too old to still be under warranty) or are a worrier. I’d recommend 100,000 for brake fluid. practically and mechanically speaking, average daily driver Subaru brake fluid is never bad by 60k. Actually it doesn’t even go “bad”. 200,000 mile old fluid you just need to push the pedal 2” instead of 1”. Still works fine practically speaking.

1. Repeat this to yourself - those maintenance packages are sales and marketing tools, not maintenance tools. You should never choose any of those. Look through the owners manual and pick out the items that need done. You need spark plugs, brake fluid, and air fitler. That's it. Pay for that and nothing else. Yes have an independent shop do it - perferably subaru specialists or familiar. Use stock plugs and filter only. Aftermarket are lower grade. The "inspection" stuff is 100% bogus - they're "inspecting" any car that comes to the shop.. It takes 8 seconds to scan 100+ different items while you're loosening the oil pan bolt. It's routine, never paid for - they're trying to find something to sell you and to make sure it's not goig to surprise you (it's a bad look if they change the oil and a day later you've got an issue they didn't tell you about). You don't need to change the brake fluid. 60k is very short. If you're on an extended warranty do it. If you're willing to skip - do it at 100,000 miles. It's a closed system and a 2013 daily driver Subaru will never experience any performance enhancement by changing the brake fluid. You won't even noticed any difference at 100k but that's a wise place to change it before it does get noticeably old. *technically* the brake fluid can be tested but very few places actually do that. But you'd pass the test unless this is some rebuilt, auction car, theft deal, sat outside in the weather with the hood up for 5 years....or lid off forever...which is highly unlikely.

No I didn't say that. The gasket matches the bore of the cylinder. Don't take what I said as a design engineering 101 class for Subarus. That wasn't the point.

Some people shoot in starting fluid or carb cleaner in the throttle body as a test that doesn’t require a gauge. If car starts for like 1-3 seconds then you know it’s not getting fuel.

other possibilities: Bad ECU - got a spare you can swap in? Bad sensor - ive seen O2,MAF, TPS cause issues without throwing a code. Bad wiring. I’ve fixed two with bad wiring. One had starting issues often - I massaged all the intake manifold wiring and found a bad spot where the wiring starts curving down from the TPS. I would just massage while it’s running or go over it abs keep trying to restart. Eventually messing with that one small area would lead to changes. Spliced in a used TPS connector with 6” of wiring on it. Fixed it. The other I couldn’t figure out but fixed it by swapping an entire intake manifold so I assume it was a sensor or wiring.

Okay, I'd check the fuel supply - check pressure if you can. If you can't check pressure, wait until it doesn't start and pull the main fuel supply hose in the engine bay and have someone turn the key while you watch how much fuel comes out out of the hose. Just need to watch it for like 2 seconds or less so we aren't talking much fuel. Catch it in a cup or in an emergency I've just run it right down the side of the frame rail carefully. It should flow out consistently, not dribble out.

Wow! how did you figure out to use water?!? These have electrical fuel pumps in the back. Fuel is a good place to check. Check fuel pressure when it stops running. 1. how long has it been running and driving? 2. has it recently sat for a long period of time?

You can swap the 2002 short block into the 98 but not the engine. In other words bolt everything from the 98 onto the 2002 block - heads, intake, etc. but I don't recommend doing that unless you know what you're doing. I think I needed to use thicker headgaskets for clearance when I've done that swap in the past. But it's been 10 years since I've done that same swap so I might be off. If it's an automatic you keep the trans with the original vehicle. 02 and 98 are not interchangeable for the transmission, if it's a manual you may have options.

Same OEM ball joint and OEM bolt all the way.

You can pop the hood and see the head gasket protruding from the head to engine mating surface. Just follow that seem until you see a part oft he gasket sticking out. Does it look new? Can you take a picture and post it here or a link to it so we can see? We can give you some feedback if you take good pictures of the gasket or any fluids. There's bound to be some CV splatter, or benign seepage, so don't worry about seeign some fluids - we can help tell the difference or where it's coming from for you if you get a good pic up.

Great car. If it's an automatic the transmissions are great, of least concern. Engine is great - keeping in mind what I wrote about earlier. Have a look at the engine with those things in mind. They easily see 200,000 miles. If it's been maintained at a local dealer - I'd stop in and ask if they can let me see the maintenance history of a car I'm about to buy and give them the VIN. They've done that for me a number of times.

*Install new Subaru timing belt and lower cogged idler at a bare minimum. Takes an hour, parts are roughly $125. $400-$800 at a dealer or $200-$500 at a local shop. Even if they have "a new timing belt" I still always install a new Subaru belt and lower idler. Because they usually don't change that idler which is prone to fail and aftermarket belts are known to fail early. They bend valves if the belt breaks. That is all I'd want to ensure before a long road trip and moving. Ideally the following are checked or considered or addressed as well: Brakes - clean and regrease the slides with Sil Glyde or some other high performance grease. If you're headed east this would be wise too as that higher end grease performs better in our salty/chemically treated winter garbage out east. Check the drive belt and battery connections and age. Clean and tigthen battery posts and connections. Spark plugs, wires, PCV valve, air fitler - general tune up stuff. Use stock NGK plugs only and Subaru or NGK wires and Subaru pcv valve. Very easy job on that vehicle. In the end a bad wire or plug will just give you a check engine light that's benign (you can keep driving) and you fix it when youi have time - so it's not a big deal or worry of a stranding situation. Not the case. There are two distinctive EJ22's for this discussion. The 99-01 EJ22's are not the same as the earlier subaru fan favorites of 1990-1998 EJ22's which were one of the best engines Subaru ever made. So that's why there's incorrect, or conflicting, statements. The 99-01 EJ22 heads are essentially Phase II EJ25 heads - the valves and springs are identical and even have the same Subaru part number, and the heads themselves are identical except for the exhaust ports. It's not like earlier Ej22's where the heads were completely different designs from the EJ25 and shared no parts. These are, by design, the same head molds, just tweaked for different exhaust ports. I'd still recommend getting it if it passes other assessment/requirements, but be aware of a few things when you look at it or in the future as an active owner of that vehicle. If they have the original manufacturer installed headgaskets from the factory they are prone to external leaks. Usually oil and it usually gets worse very slowly over a long period of time. You can wait and plan a repair for 10's of thousands of miles or just ignore it if you're not worried about drips here and there. The good news is this is of zero consequence for reliability. The bad news is it could have leaked/be leaking or have been repaired. 1. I'd be looking for signs of repair and who did it or if a Subaru gasket was used. 2. I'd be looking for signs of cleaning - squeaky clean, as if to remove lots of oil. Or clean in some areas and saturated in areas that are hard to clean. That would be a sign it's currently leaking and was cleaned up for sale. 3. It has no signs of leaks at all now or in the past and you just drive the thing 100,000 more miles - which is a very likely scenario.

Those H6's are the most recommended Subaru I've helped a lot of people buy/repair, many first time Subaru owners I know I helped them into an H6.. since all the Ej22's rusted out many years ago around here.

If that car sees any salt or rust prone situations, I'd consider Subaru or better grade bolt for the pinch bolt. Aftermarket metal is almost invariably more prone to rust than Subaru OEM and pinch bolts are annoying if they're seized.

You want to make sure you don't get someone who doesn't know what they're doing and covers it up to just pass inspection which can often mean trapping rust and water inside of it. Some places in areas with inspections will do this - just get it rhough inspection and there very well may treat an old Subaru like a Ford Tempo. You don't want that kind of a "patch". I'd almost want it more open than covered unless they do a really good job of attacking the rust directly.

Another question which is a better fit is: "Are there any oil induced failures or issues that oil choice could mitigate?" There are none. Most oil decisions/questions try to solve an issue that doesn't exist. With a 20 year old model, there's many thousands of examples with a total of billions of miles of opportunity for the greater Subaru community to see any issues, timing tensioner, or otherwise. The good news in all this - is it truly doesn't matter at all. So you'll be right whatever you choose. Enjoy the JDM i've installed JDM EZ30's as well.

Good call! That quote is for exactly what you said and some supporting work I assume. His was imported from Germany to the US and isn’t a variation or model available here though I’d imagine the frame is the same.

headgaskets i mean we can't see the car so i guess you'd be wise to check for the intake manifold still leakinng into the combustion chamber but based on what you said the headgaskets have failed and are blowing exhaust into the coolant. it prevents the fluid from properly circulating and thus the heat doesnn't work. EA82's are tiny engines and easy to replace the headgaskets in the vehicle...well, easy relative to headgaskets.

Same symptoms with two thermostats suggest this is something other than a thermostat issue. Definitely check or just get an oem one in there but don’t hold your breath.

Let's start with the good take on this - an 88 hatch is a sweet ride! Get it, and keep it, drivable and enjoy driving it. It's really dependent on you finding someone, there's no "going rate" for a job like this. It varies wildly and many shops/mechanics don't want to touch stuff like that. Body shops aren't a good fit, they'll be pricey and have plenty of insurance work. But ask around and see if there's any where that's willing to give it a rough patch job for a reasonable cost. I'd ask friends/shops/mechanics who they know that might be a good fit, don't just ask if they'll do it. Actual, legitimate, long term repair is for hard core DIY or restorations, or custom work only. In many areas that's a high priced sector of the automotive world, not something you're going to get quick lube oil change rates for. With a little effort and cost you should enjoy a solid 5 more years out of this vehicle. Also - if it's driven in the snow/treated roads or salty ocean front environments - copiously spray/wash the underside of the car off as much as you can. At a bare minimum spray the under side of the car in the spring a few times as the weather begins to warm. Or frequently if it's in a garage that's considerably warmer than outside. chemical reactions happen exponentially in relation to temperature as described by the Arrhenious equation. So wash the salt off and particularly wash the salt off before/when it gets warmer out if you can't do it regularly. The bad news. That's essentially non-repairable. A proper repair would be thousands of dollars and finding someone to do it wouldn't be easy. Of course call some custom shops or body shops and get a quote or ask who does that kind of work to see what happens locally. A friends German landrover looks like that - all his body panels are immaculate and perfect. No rust - except underneath on similar parts as yours from sitting in grass. No body work needed - $20,000 quote just to fix the rusty frame. It's almost impossible to get it all out - and it WILL come back. I've tried. It's crazy how far back it goes, how you have to keep cutting and cutting, and then there's areas you can't cut without getting into more stuff or much bigger job than you wanted. It's a loosing endless battler without massive overhaul. Whatever you see - it's 10x worse. And unless you're really good - it'll come back.

Owners manual is a good source for viscosity. When searching here - search his user name and "Amsoil", his most detailed responses involve that. Google search might work better but it should be readily available here too. And you might try searching his posts for EZ30 in case he's ever pointed it out. Oil opinions are 99% of the time not given by someone acutely aware of failure modes, causes, metallurgical deterioration, interplay of lubricity degradation and heat escalation, oil degradation, or any kind of engineering/large scale data analysis, when it comes to oil induced issues. This isn't a big deal except when we consider how obsessed people are with oil choices. Except maybe GD. Hours and hours of internet reading/watching is just a bunch of half-baked (at best) opinions and picking whatever sounds good, there's nothing scientific, engineering related, or data driven about that. But here's the thing - it doesn't matter. Run synthetic, never let it get low, and change it on time and you'll never have an oil induced issue. Outside of "don't be dumb", follow the owner manual, there's no chance of viscosity giving any meaningful benefit (ignoring fuel mileage) for an average daily driver. Change two different EZ30's from new with 5w30 and 10w30 for 200k and if it's never run low or past interval there will be no difference. EZ-30 guts/materials/clearances are commensurate with all modern subaru engines. There's nothing special regarding the EZ30 related to oil viscosity. There's not much information or consensus because it doesn't matter. That engine runs 250,000 miles all day long on the cheapest on sale oil you can find if it never gets low, and is changed frequently. Technically even conventional oil is fine if you change it a lot, but synth is so good and forgiving of potential running hot, or low oil, or other compromising events, and longer change intervals, it's silly not to run it. There are two minor oil related considerations on the EZ: 1. the timing chain tensioner supplies 2. the EZ30 has 6 cylinders - so failure or incidence rates of unforgiving circumstances will be 50% higher when speaking about the combustion chamber just mathematically speaking. Keeping the oil clean, full, and changed regularly is key to those two points far more than viscosity...again, follow the owners manual.

Yes - consider this! Regrease both axles and switch sides left to right. I'd be very surprised if you have any noise regreasing and certainly not after regreasing and switching sides. Also a visual inspection of the guts is smart cookies.