idosubaru

It’s worth whatever someone will pay. I chose my words appropriately and didn’t condemn the price. 99% of buyers won’t pay that. That’s the price of a near perfect 4WD low mileage one. But the 99% doesn’t matter. Seller is probably flipping it and clearly looking for those 1% of buyers with cash to burn. given the microbe sized market for XT6s that could take 10 years or 10 minutes. That’s how selling anything goes. Higher prices above average take longer average time to sell. like someone sitting on property hoping a large commercial development company buys it for well over nominal price. It happens, but not often, and most people who want it don’t get it.

That’s a brutal ride, every bump makes you cringe! FWD so no air suspension and makes the price more unattractive than it is.

It's las vegas...I guess we should expect excess. lol I agree. At the same time, many shops have to have simple one size fits all solutions that are easily repeatable for the dozens of different vehicles/years/makes/models they see monthly. Imagine doing this for every quote, phone call or question on 50 different engines in a month. One size fits all solutions are typically wasteful but they are common place in almost of business. Lots of shops do this, or use aftermarket parts, or don't replace the ideal parts (just the t belt or belt and pump, etc) That's the norm. The surprise isn't those - but the shop that can dial it in for platform specific service on each engine type. That's where manufacturer specific service can be helpful. I agree with you but I don't necessarily call them evil or cheats. Their business (and maybe reputation) is apparently good enough, or Las Vegas crazy enough, the market allows them to do it.

EA82s were not commonly blowing at 16,000 miles under warranty, receiving headgasket TSBs, and extended head gasket only warranties. TSB/warranties were on later EJ25s. but those are “better” and still needed legal help, TSBs,band extended warranties. The sentiment that EA82s were bad is largely a function of age or a small, skewed (more EJ25s than EA) sample size. They were already old when forums started. They were never high value cars in most areas of the US, which typically means reduced care and maintenance. Few people commenting between EA82s and EJ25s were *equally exposed* to the large number of both engines new, zero miles, under warranty. You don’t need to be but most people see best that way. Im not even against EJ25Ds. Just know what you’re getting into snd do jt right. Get a good one install new headgaskets snd resurface and they’re a reassemble engine. Just a few more issues, less forgiving, and labor intensive than others.

I’d look at local used engines and see if you can find one from a wreck or blown trans or rust or otherwise suggestive of running fine before the wreck, etc. and look up their warranty. if you find one like that the answer gets easier. Better to know your options before deciding. Right now we have no clue what your options are Long reasoning for that answer: Excessive would be engine running while it’s pegged or near H. They usually overheat instantly and can’t really be “cooled down…driven….cooled down” much except for really short distances once they start overheating that bad. Exhaust gases get pushed into the coolant and cavitate or otherwise prevent coolant flow (which is why the cabin looses heat). And keep in mind you don’t know what you’re comparing it too. If you can verify a used engine is coming from a wreck, that doesn’t guarantee it’s never been egregiously overheated but it’s better than not knowing anything. If you think yours was overheated a lot, a used engine from a wreck or blown trans, etc would be my preferred solution. Ive got one in my garage that’s never been overheated. I told a friend what to watch for and he called me the day he had symptoms. I built him an engine to replace it (he’s a great guy I did it for free), his mechanic installed it for him and I got the old engine. You want to find one like that (unlikely) or wrecked, etc. Anyway - check with local yards and see if any come from wrecks or blown trans where presumably the engine was running fine before it was junked.

The decision to swap or repair should be based on how much you trust that this engine wasn't severely overheated before and how good is the warranty on the used engine? Multiple times over a long period of time or really hot for an extended period of time are bad for the lower end bearings. I'd pay $1,000 more to repair that engine then take a gamble on a 25 year old used one that may have overheated before, been repaired (how well), and potentially deal with used engine warranties....if you know it wasn't likely overheated much in it's past. That's the worst engine Subaru ever made due to the headgaskets. The random nature of them overheating, they didn't (when they were younger) mix oil/coolant, loose coolant, or fail compression tests. So they confused people all the time who swore it wasn't headgasket, would limp it home replace radiators, or water pumps, or whatever other guess they hoped would fix it. Then since the overheating was random - they'd think it was fixed. And drive it a few more months and it overheats again and wash-rinse-repeat, replace the thermostat for annother round of overheating and limping along. That's dangerous for bearings. I'd base this on what you know about the two engines more than price. 20 hours is a lot, you don't replace Subaru head bolts, and the heads need resurfaced, not a full valve job. But I can understand it's quicker for them to charge you $100 and install clean bolts and they're probably not set up to adjust those valves like I can in my own fancy harbor freight equipped garage. LOL

Clear the terminals, clamps, and battery posts, and tighten them. Carrying around a new battery is a good way for it to be a total !(%)*( by the time you install it. Just install the new battery, they don't store well outside of a controlled charging environment. Alt output should be tested. CEL was caused by wheel spin or snow/mud packed up in the wheel sensor that has now fallen/dried off. You were probably high centered on the snow, it can look like it wasnt when it mostly definitely was. It takes less than you think to high center a vehicle in snow/mud. You tires may also be old - old tires are horrendous in the snow due to the way rubber materials degrade over time. Cheaper tires degrade faster. I'm surprised how little is known about this in car world. If your tires are cheap and more than 2 years old or great and 4-5+ years old, they're going to be poor performing in snow.

I think he operates under a new business name and works out of another shop now? Seems like Marshall said he was primarily working to supply the local Colorado market and not as much online/shippinng, or something along those lines But that's foggy memory from a few years ago. I don't have any hints or recall where they might be or what their new name might be. But I think I talked to once since that move.

It's not an exhaust leak or vibrating heat shields right? The way you're describing and diagnosing the bearing I highly doubt you'd conflate the diff and heat shields but it's happened before. it does seem like the diff bearing is a potential candidate.

drain and fill is a great suggestion check old fluid Describe the sound more. Whine, grind, thump, whirrr, buzz, ratcheting, ticking…and how it changes. does it change going up a hill? Did the noise change at al when installing new axles and wheel bearings or stayed 100% the same? Can’t replace bearing or R&P through retainer rings. Disassemble trans, reassemble to identical positions to hopefully retain preload and gear teeth clearance. It’s been done before by one person in this forum that I know of, he was successful. One of the bearings is $100.

Good. That changes things. Most calls for a quote are mechanically unfamiliar, neglectful, and sometimes want the cost of a spark plug change to fix their head gaskets. Customer calls are unreliable, poorly diagnosed, lack scope and human nature is such that the poor information usually favors the customer Shops have to quote high, assume the worst, and hope shady customers go elsewhere.

I’m all for paying a good shop. I’m the weird-o that pays contractors more than the bill they give and tire shop more than they charge. Pay them if they’re good. But also if they’re good Id expect more clarity. They should say $1,500 for an engine swap plus any additional amounts for unforeseen issues we encounter and ask you about. Or additional charges for headgaskets. Timing belt…..what brand parts, be specific, write it out. You should be installing all new Subaru or AISIn timing kits. Belt pulleys and tensioner. GD charges like $2,500-$3,000 I think for an headgasket Job. He’s quoted his prices here before. Look them up. And he’s incredibly clear abs thorough. If I were you I’d be seeing how far the drive is to Portland and see if you can make a trip to let him do it.

Subaru book time is 12 hours. *exactly* what they are doing the other 5-13 hours? I mean list it out for that 10 hour up charge “wiring or mechanical hiccups” is insufficient, and meaningless. There are no wiring and mechanical “hiccups”. Anything like that should be addressed as they proceed not paid for ahead of time like insurance you probably won’t need. Shops don’t upcharge your tires before they’re installed just “in case” studs break, TPMS crack, or a wheel is bent - they encounter an issue, tell you the issue, options to resolve it, and you both work it out. Same here check exhaust - note if there’s rust and potential costs if that’s problematic. If you’re ordering a JDM engine then SAY it specifically, there’s maybe 1-2 hours extra work for potential wiring or shipping damages. But you didn’t say JDM so we cant even be generous with a minuscule 1-2 hour up charge. It seems like they’re trying to make it sound like particle physics so you sign and trust their Einsteinian skills. This sounds harsh but mostly for illustration and clarity since all we have is a text screen - Why are you paying top dollar, praising their skills, and come here to ask for advice on what parts to get? That’s just bizarre. I’m not even a trained mechanic never worked in a shop and I’ve already made more sense and given more quantitative Subaru specific information than they have in 6 minutes. They should be leading that charge if they’re that good and qualified and expensive.

It looks like you're sourcing EJ25 engines. You can buy one of those JDM EJ25's (even the 00-05 ones) and bolt your heads and intake mainfold onto it. But don't screw it up or you'll blow headgaskets again. They are not plug and play. You'll have to call the JDM places and see if they have any older 90's stuff if you want plug and play. They're not high volume ennginnes any more, best to call and ask. If you suspect your current EJ25 is good and hasn't been severely overheated or overheated multiple times then just repair it and no worries. Many of them have been so they're not the most comforting engine to put a lot of work into. 2.2 could feel underpowered if you're trudging 10,000 feet up mountain passes carrying 500 extra pounds of people and gear. 2.2 SOHC. I already told you what engines to look for:

1443 and 0420 are not causing the no start. 0452 I’m not familiar with. I think it’s emissions related and I’d be concerned about a rusty tank bleeding off pressure (and vapors). But I’m unsure. 0031 are front O2 sensor codes. Check wiring for damage, FSM for how to test or many people just replace it and see On older vehicles you can just disconnect the O2 sensor as a test to see if it runs better. if it does then that almost confirms the O2 sensor is the issue Not sure if you can still do that with an 02 but I’d try it and see what happens Worse case…what…it doesn’t start? Haha who cares, it already doesn’t start !

1995 automatic 2.2 is best for reliability Any 1996-1998 EJ25 or 99 Outback or Legacy will work as well. But they’re not good to buy used for the same reason you’re replacing it. Yes it’s doable. And yes headgaskets is a little more work and unforgiving. One bad move or negligence and jtll fail again. It’s just big and a lot of weight. Get an engine lift. Weight leveler helps some people to get a good angle. But isn’t necessary. I have one and have never used it. The only tricky parts: 1. Separating the engine and trans. They’ll be tight - just work around the bell housing with a stout screwdriver then chisel and keep working around 2. getting the angle right. Have to tilt trans back and engine pointed “up” for engine mounts to clear crossmember. so those are kind of an “art” or experience thing. but not “hard” 3. Lower 14mm engine mount nuts. They’re hidden by the axles. Get good wobble sockets and extensions and tool assortment rather than trying to use something that won’t reach. Speaking of tools don’t use 12 pin to sockets particularly if you’re in a rust prone area. 4. keep torque converter pushed back when pulling trans. It’s tricky to get fully seated if it pulls out. Keep it pushed back and held in place by wire until the new engine goes in.

For Subaru's particularly that new it has a very very small chance of being the issue. It is cheap and easy it's just not going to fix his car. He can pull the outlet side and see the fuel flow through it into a cup when turning the key to "test" if it's working. It should pour out roughly like a garden hose.

1. Read the check engine codes. It could have a pending code even if the check engine light isn’t lit 2. Guessing is a good way to waste time 3. Speaking of guessing how old are the plugs and wires? 4. Are the plugs and wires OEM or NGK? 5. Pull the plugs and look for oil on the *external* part of the plugs/wires Misfire is more likely than O2 sensor. Symptoms vary and overlap. Clogged converter will get hot snd turn red. You may smell a burning type smell. Disconnect and drop the exhaust and see if it runs better but then again yours is likely rusty and problematic to remove. 90s EJ knock sensors crack all the time - by far the single most common sensor to cause problems. I’d pull the knock sensor (12mm bolt) on your Forster and see if it has signs of cracking on the base of it. O2 sensor - follow the wire up from it until you see the connector. It’s usually on the passengers side by the frame rail or axle. Of course you know they’re usually corroded rusted and hellacious to remove.

Thanks. I thought 225/60/16 didn’t clear legacy strut spring perches? they don’t fit some EJ struts i tried to put them on years ago but maybe it’s just some older ones. one person here suggests they don’t fit:

My 225/60/16 OB snow tires cleared my 2009 Legacy struts. But most Subaru commentary says those OB tires won’t clear legacy struts. These are definitely legacy struts it sits really low to the ground and I’ve installed them temporarily on my xt6 before. Are they GT turbo struts ? The prior owner installed a turbo GT hood and had the camber set to wonky angles so it would be no surprise to have non OEM struts

I just start searching until I find one. If I can’t I buy the discs on eBay. Shoot I knew mine was newer Gen , 09-13 and 14-18 are different generations, harness is likely different. I might have an 09-13 FSM but Ive worked on legacy/outback like 10-1 more than foresters so I’m not sure. I can check tomorrow if you still need it.

Oh right my question oversimplified comparing grounds, here we are diagnosing an unknown with CANBUS and controllers.

Odd! Can you look up vin and info on cars101 and try to verify trim and options? Then I’d check FSM pin outs for seats or heated circuit. Should be able to count how many pins or connectors using FSM. I have a 2014 Forester parts car if the harness happens to be the same and you need it it’s yours.

CANBUS worse than others? I’m guessing there’s no test worth the time for grounds? Test for a voltage drop at grounds or a power supply point? From one engineer to another - for many to work fine missing a ground and others not, is unsatisfying! Grounds, and something additional, is at play. Rust? More than one compromised ground? My last 6 or more DDs are from rust free states. It’s so common I’m sure most shops have seen it.

I’m not questioning that - but why do a large number of Subarus I’ve seen drive fine with ground straps hanging off and dangling unconnected for years? My current 2006 abs 2008 are prime examples. I don’t even care to fix it because it’s so common. The common ones are the engine to frame rail so I guess the answer is those are less important. I know the one behind the power steering pump is crucial (some won’t start without it). Any others specifically worse than others?