idosubaru

Check alternator output voltage now. It would be no surprise for a new aftermarket alternator to be bad or over charging. Why was the alternator replaced? An overcharging alt will fry computers. Ive seen and repaired all of the above.

How about a carburetor? I hate them with a passion and try to buy anything without them - tractors, generators my buddy just got an FI chain saw. carbs suck. But for simplicity you'd be running in no time and you can rebuild/make them new-ish I think? In a currently running vehicle I woudln't be concerned about reliabilty of the SPFI - I'd just have a spare computer for back up and call it a day. Heck many of us have these EA vehicles parked in our driveway right now with original harnesses that have been in use since the 80's with minimal, if any issues. Most of us aren't breaking down yearly. But getting a used one brigns into question what was wrong with it, how was it stored, did it sit with rodents, weather, exposed for extended periods, etc. I wouldn't be too worried sourcing one, trying to ascertain condition, and visually inspecting all the connectors for corrossion.

You should specify what you mean by "normal" diff locker, in Subaru world there isn't a "normal". Broadly speaking a "diff locker" usually refers to a rear, or front, differential. The Duty C switch controls the rear transfer functionality of the transmission, and not the front or rear differential like a truck with a "locker". A 4WD truck with a "locker" will have the transfer case and a locking rear diff. A subaru with this switch will just have control of the transfer function, it has nothing to do with front and rear diffs.

No, with it “off” it’s like the switch isn’t even there and was never installed. It just would then drive like every other Subaru on the road without a switch. this assume it’s installed correctly of course

Duty C isn’t designed for continuous use via a switch so that non standard use could wear it out. I’ve never seen it happen and I’ve used it probably more than just about anyone on here in a few vehicles and 10s of thousands of miles. I’ve even used it continuously for 10s of thousands of miles to work around other mechanical issues. I like it in snow and mud. It gives definitive immediate traction and no chance of the wheel momentarily slipping and starting a rut. I also like it on a steep unmaintained (not plowed or treated) snow covered mountain road I drive every day to work. Without the switch the car wants to walk some back and forth and has less control. With it on it goes straight up. When it’s just above freezing during the day, a few people drive over it, and it freezes at night - it’s slick as an ice rink and even making it up with snow tires can be tricky. At its worst, it’s impossible to go down without studs because it’s so steep and solid smooth ice. I won’t go down jt and go a different way home when that happens. It’s a pretty good test because I drive it every day to work and have done it hundreds of times with and without the switch. Mostly, but not entirely, in an XT6. Which has the same transmission but a bit of a weight difference from your car.

Any word if this worked yet? I guess you probably weren't doing this over the holidays!?!?

Used properly it's a nonissue in snow, mud, grass, offroad. There aren't really many options though. The rear VLSD differentials wear out and function like the open rear differential you already have so they're kind of pointless to buy used. If you have a manual trans you can't get a locking center diff. If you have an automatic you can install a switch to manually control the Duty C solenoid output for the rear transfer cluthes (a.k.a. "center diff") - which is what I, and others here, have done before.

How long and how many miles have you owned this? Is it a hatch back or wagon? Its probably benign - EA82 oil pumps are notoriously inconsistent with pressure readings, ticking and the stock gauges aren’t great. I would guess the timing is coincidence. Not surprising at all. Worth looking into but if it’s got oil in it snd running fine it’s probably fine. Many old conversations about low or zero EA82 oil pressure. Some owners manuals for the vehicle even mention low/no pressure reading at idle.

EA81 or EA82? Auto or manual? EA82 oil pressure gauges are notoriously unhelpful or inaccurate. it’s probably fine and there’s no issue. or reseal the pump What was the oil pressure doing before this episode? It’s been consistently the same for 5 years? Any recent engine work? has the pump ever been resealed ?

Hill holder. Or, Ive only seen this on non-Subaru vehicles. But the rubber brake line at the hub/wheel can collapse internally. When letting off the brake the fluid doesn’t return back up the line because the internal collapse is acting like a one way valve. MC and booster give ample pressure to push through it but they’re a one way street so there’s no pressure pushing back up to the MC when brakes are let off. So it retains pressure on the caliper.

I’ll measure H6 diameter if I remember next time I’m in the garage.

The exhaust wouldn’t mean much. Infinite Subaru parts interchange even if they’re not cross listed and have a separate part number. Different gaskets might suggest different bolt spacing or pipe diameter though. There isn’t much else to them to vary aftermarket sometimes lists gasket dimensions you could possibly compare why they differ.

In the end if you can't get Subaru then yes just get one of the other brands. I've bought from those brands before and gotten "different" parts - in other words Beck Arnley sourced the part from someone different the second time I bought the same part. With the low volume and miles of aftermarket reports we get it'll be hard to compare them in terms of quality. OEM - I don't know. Probably can't but many have original or second ball joints which puts it long enough ago that OEM was a reasonable option. Worn out - they're either loose or they're not. It's just a socket joint. Toyota - I've seen a couple like that at acquaintance's shops and side of the road i pulled over to help. All mangled and sheared off. one was like a 10 year old new style mustang - I asked the shop owner and he said he sees it from time to time on cars that age, wasn't nearly as surprised as me. all the ones I've seen were not Subarus (and I think none of them were Japanese). My (entirely anecdotal) guess is other manufacturers may use lower grade ball joints than Subaru/Japanese, which I associate with aftermarket too. Anyway - minor point, and I'm making some wild guesses and assumptions, people use aftermarket ball joints all the time, so I wouldn't worry about it either if there's no options.

I have a complete H6 exhaust on my garage floor, I’m not home to go look but that looks very much like it. I could pull a measurement if needed or check sensor locations Just check the gasket part numbers, if they’re the same then the form factors are as well and then you just need to ensure the oxygen sensor(s?) are there and in the right spot.

Subaru ball joints aren’t still available? They are for 80s XT6s but they’re the same as legacy/outback. if you can reboot the ball joint like GD said and there’s a chance it’s a Subaru ball joint I’d keep it. Aftermarket ball joints aren’t impressive for Subarus. I don’t trust them and the shops I’ve been too have ball joint failures that aren’t very old. Granted it’s never been a Subaru but still I dont see any reason to avoid Subaru ball joint quality if possible.

Easy fix - strap the driveshaft down so it doesn’t turn. It shouldn’t take much to keep it from turning. I think it just needs some light resistance snd it won’t move if everything is working properly. Ive run FWD for a lot of miles (over 10,000) on multiple vehicles with zero issues. Whatever the duty c failure rate is *strictly due to the FWD fuse* is so low that’s it’s probably not even distinguishable from average Duty C failure rates, and likely insignificant for your usage.

Can you install the diff case without the ring gear attached to it so you can leave the rear axles, keep it sealed snd full of oil? Or find some stub shafts that fit the rear diff so you can keep it full of oil. The rear diffs don’t need much oil so just a little random splashes from driving and fluid being in the carrier will suffice.

Was already familiar with GM parts Didnt know subaru SPFI was an option or how easy it was Didnt want to look for 30 year old Subaru parts Or like you suggested didn’t like the old Subaru tech But I’d guess one one the early guesses is more likely Is the GM set up even worth trying to get working? Or it’s that convoluted?

Yep EA81. EJ swap mentions were based on not knowing what made this impossible set up that landed in your lap. now that we know it’s not custom at all, or special, not mixed parts, and just a plain old EA81, this is much simpler. Id look into an SPFI rig he mentioned.

Outback struts and additional lift springs will probably be too much for that legacy. That'll be 2" for the struts and 1.5" for the springs = 3.5". That's usually too much and going to be problematic if you're not installing spacers and blocks. What he said - most people do outback for large wheel and tire sizes. Reliability will be the same. Although I have put outback wheels/tires on legacy struts - I think there are some Legacy GT or Impreza...basically the performance cars that have struts with higher clearance. My current daily driver Legacy can fit Outback 16" stock wheel and tire sizes.

Holding. I just checked - pump, hoses, reservoir are all the same for 05-09 outback listed on Subaru parts.

cheers for great news! how hard was it to get a Gates Tech, and how knowledgeable did they seem about Subarus?

That's awesome they had them in stock. Good fine. You can get entire calipers, alternators, and axles but not the parts to rebuild them. Most people just replace calipers rather than repair them. Are your pistons salvageable - clean them up and reuse?

That’s a great point - make sure no hose leaks that are easily addressed.

not sure the same part that’s always problematic - but seen external leaks, loss of steering assist, noise. the variety of symptoms suggests, but doesn’t guarantee, more than one problem area. happens a lot, and it’s been happening a long time even when these models weren’t that old relative to Subaru power steering pumps in prior generations which have fewer issues.