idosubaru

The new pigtail was wired in backwards by a previous shop. Compared it to the other side and the wires were opposite. The assemblies were faded and his uncle attempted to freshen them up before, so he decided to get new headlight assemblies which I installed last week. Thanks all!

You’ve checked all bulb sockets and pigtails related to headlights? Make sure no rear or front headlight, low beam, high beam, taillight are corroded or bad? disconnect each headlight and tail light one at a time and see if any impact voltage differently. If there’s more than one per assembly - disconnect each wiring plug in the headlight assembly independently and the entire tailgate if there’s easy access (some are easier than others). Im not familiar with JDM but if any custom wiring was done that’s the first place to start. I worked on a friends problematic headlights last week. Turns out previous shop reversed the wiring to a replacement bulb connector. Still worked but not correctly.

Yes. More devices require more amps, voltage stays the same.

He nailed it on all points - I'd avoid EJ25D's and 259's, the way the EJ25D headgaskets fail are prone to prior historical multiple overheating events missed by owers and mechanics alike. The later 00+ (and 99 Forester/Imp) 2.5's are much more forgiving.

Agreed. $300-$1,000 engine + $500-$1,500 for parts and install and the total cost of $800-$2,500 can easily be less than a headgasket replacement on a questionable DOHC EJ25.

Approx $2,500 for dealer to do a 2.5 head gaskets in the vehicle. It can vary. Resurfacing (some dealers do, many don’t), timing components, valve covers, etc. and regional rates demand and staffing vary too. Call and ask they might give you a quote for an “average” headgasket job. That’s a fairly standard job locally speaking and some will give an estimate over the phone A cheap 98 legacy needing headgaskets can be questionable. If it was overheated bad enough the engine isn’t worth repairing. I’d walk cautiously around blown headgaskets EJ25s now - they’re old, not worth much and more prone to people limping them along and further compromising the lower end bearings.

Cheers for it being a bearing!! I’ve encountered a couple with no diagnosable symptom. It would make noise while driving straight (under load/higher rpms I guess). That’s it. No play. No change when turning while driving. No feel when turned by hand. No noise with stethoscope. No temp change after driving. Even more odd - they were lumpy feeling when rotated once removed from the vehicle.

Correct. Fronts are more exposed to heat and temp/cycling, road debris, additional functionality of steering components and exposure rates (axles removed, boots or replacement), and heavier (front heavier than rear and car nose dives in quick brake application). It’s just an all around busier higher stress area. When you say “serviceable” do you mean grease them like the 70s or replace just the bearing like the 90s? If you mean “like the 90s”, for Subaru I’d guess it’s simply due to the increasing complications of labor, special tools, and hub failures to replace them. Hub Tamer tools, rusted in parts pressing complications, deformed hubs requiring multiple bearing replacements. And they need great seals Ideally everyone is cleaning or repalcing their wheel seals with every axle removal - boots, replace, etc. That’s a lot of effort and hard to make consistently accomplished. Given the parts costs, labor, rust, presses, special tools, wheel seal replacement issues and damaged hubs - the cost isn’t really extravagantly different. There are more bearing failures now than in the 90s. Its not just Subaru either. Honda and Toyota’s have their weaker bearings as well. It’s an industry wide shift. My curiosity is why a 5 year old 1992 legacy bearing was far less likely to fail than a 5 year old Subaru (or Honda or Toyota) bearing today. It seems that current bearings should be capable of similar reliability but for some reason they’re not. OEM bearings don’t strand a vehicle and give ample warning and for new car consumers aren’t a detriment to purchase. Why do newer bearings have higher ratws of failure? Is it increasing vehicle weight? I doubt it…but I can’t think of any other significant changes. Id guess they’re assuming the trade offs of earlier issues and new ones is tolerable to consumers. If you mean “greasable” 70s bearings - As usual there’s a pros and cons list. Keep them greased, sealed and from overheating and bearings are likely to last the life of the vehicle. Theoretically sealed is great. But it isn’t practical for modern consumers and 200,000 mile vehicles seeing numerous axles changes, mud, snow, rust, salt, etc. there’s no shortage of equipment, trailer, tractor, boat and other serviceable bearing issues. A rusty nippple is likely in the northeast and annoying if it breaks off or clogs. My friend that daily drives 1970s cars is playing with bearings every 30k. Thats cool he loves it. I’ll pass on that but gladly spend my time worrying about tire circumference LOLOL 1970s Serviceable isn’t scalable to the masses of consumers less familiar with mechanics and maintenance.

96-03 4 cylinders are all very similar. I wouldn’t favor any of those years if I was going to put a 2.2 in it. im a little confused about your question though. What is your plan? You can’t just drop the same 2.2 in a 96 and 2003. 96-98 (and 99 OB or legacy) are phase I and 00-03 (and 99 For or Imp) are Phase II. As far as the systems other than the engines: major systems like brakes and power steering are essentially the same with minor tweaks and no issues. Front struts are interchangeable between them all. 00-03 have significant rear suspension changes. 99-2001 EJ22s (found in 99 legacies and 99-01 Imprezas) are not as robust as 96-98 EJ22s - they’re more prone to oil leaks/headgaskets than their 96-98 beast older cousin EJ22s. some 01-03s have H6s which can’t be swapped into 4 cylinder vehicles without full wiring ECU conversion. 99 and sometimes 98 or 2000 automatic have delayed engagement into drive. When first starting in the morning Shift from reverse to drive and wait 3-10 seconds to go. test drive them from cold start and see. If it happens (and wasn’t ignored for 5 years) it’s treatable for less than $10. I wouldn’t avoid 99ish automatics I’d just make sure it doesn’t currently delay for 10 or more seconds from cold (meaning it was ignored for years).

What’s your issue with the other thread you asked the same question? Is your only option to have an engine shipped? search car-part.com with the various engines and models listed below. don’t search online - call the JDM suppliers and ask. These older engines aren’t seen for sale much any more. That doesn’t mean they don’t exist but you might find jt hard to find one. Check eBay too if you haven’t. In US terms a 1995-1998 EJ22 or a 1996-1998 EJ25 can be plug and play compatible. search for all of those or a 1999 legacy/outback 2.5 (but not a 99 Forster or Imp 2.5 - different electronics and incompatible) search for those Get a 00-04 2.5 block and bolt your heads and intake to it. Search for those engines close to you If you can cross the border PM me an offer and buy a 125k miles (200 km) 98 EJ25 with new headgaskets expand your search options. search local classifieds that sell used car parts You posted this once already you should probably clarify what in that thread didn’t help or work or make sense because I think I just repeated a bunch of things Keep in mind “best” is subjective and there are so many options and variables dependent on your skill set, your mechanics skill set snd price tag and your limited parts availability that ambiguous questions are hard to answer. And add to that any potential Canadian year model engine differences

this is amazing! Well done team usmb!

Why can’t you find it? Rockauto. Advance. napa. call and ask or stop in if you can’t find it on their website. Toyota dealer might even help first Google search via eBay I found one in 8 seconds: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224636839208?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item344d662528%3Ag%3AGZgAAOSw4DJhaoQ1&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSK%2B2M%2Ffp5X4rboLTBP5niNTEQCmnCP236JOOtmLXZzcoM7eN3AUNEkBHOz%2FPz71RKlvUnF9FRqxZnCDpOprgMnPMoaUbGqp4g7Wp2EsST5OlKaAzDEaQqetG%2FTxqgK8gyI4zJA5vePKOFsRX5YcsJ91pqxAdExiojNKww0ALH%2BUB%2BPd2v4S%2F2zEjb21NIA1aRaNcYmjNHgnnN67ubE4%2FSMSVYIu5%2FQvN0oBBRBjBrsj5MC9mlyx3ar5l5aUvtll%2F1LnLzaX7RDM9t1AKa9vGcRH%2BsE2sDq9Zu7eI25kRFP73gXloMacUatZKuF4u4qrbO7B5%2BVkfNpZBlRKcQTFH1HQMCVabxmbS8LeEPbzxRerKCKc6BE%2FVIZJOd8jthuevVT4MgzHD7pg8Sn2RUqY2nt1qyW0qYqPpDtZAYZij76aHm%2FYH5FLdi0PmfJa0PE%2FAT9OXfAAhIyHzN1QymgmEIP37KPylo%2Blghhg4b7a9MgpIpFHHQvvvYCMSW0j6SocDUfvE08pk6My4ntEkX27fesR3JLYB45X4SISlhmIq2CcgKVml9pK98D2aXmi71jyRnaAKroqRCJxwjyFTt%2Bdy6%2FggkIsZJaINkJ1iDQzTwm9iE34ERUzPQXlnKssbUZMDacFg%2B8QE%2FgmJhEOOsK8BjYyfnPBhhqraD6hGEv%2F%2ByvYaf3SH9Ab6Bs9pvyGLqseOtG9GLxeZLky1MtqIyTG13yqqQ2pkFuRO5LgDYIc6snSu1Yi3W8axwqh89Lw9dba8oyHBfsj5EOEMFWReonX98t4Qb5zuNSP5amtjaNox8nHphFNX3RJosyW%2BuxrjlDV2aaaMLrPuMrJJD1Q8amslKww%3D%3D|clp%3A2499334|tkp%3ABFBMsMfQ6atf&fits=Year%3A1993|Model%3A4Runner|Make%3AToyota

***Youre asking in a thread by what I think is a Canadian member. So the original poster should clarify comments made about years/compatibility. For US market - 99 is phase II. It can be done but there’s a lot of issues to work around. If you’re asking about price for someone else to do it I doubt it’s a good fit. Have to swap entire 98 intake manifold wiring harness onto the 99 and still work around additional issues. The idle control being different with no easy work around being one. The “easy way” to use that engine would be to bolt thr 98 heads to the 99 block - that’s just a standard block swap pretty much. Remove 1998 and do a headgasket job but use the 99 block instead of the 98. Then the intake and working all stays the same - bolt 98 instake to the 98 heads installed on the 99 block. That’s essentially a headgaskets job with A little extra disassembly for the 99. $2,500 plus or minus 500 If you want the entire 1999 engine in the 98 - since that would be such a custom job price would vary depending how one did it and who you found to do it. If by inspection in MD you mean Maryland State safety inspections - they only inspect upon purchase unless it changed recently? You can swap away and it never matters until the car is sold/changes owner. But you’ll need check engine light out and to pass emissions in most (or all?) areas of Maryland.

Are you in Canada? EJ22 or EJ25 engine? Why is the JDM throwing red flags? You could buy a newer EJ25 block and bolt your EJ22 heads to it. Have a machine shop rebuild your heads or try to buy some lower mileage EJ22 heads. Subaru even sells new EJ25 motors for $2k. I’m not sure the oldest generation they have but if 00-04 are available tjose would work. Doubt they’d honor the warranty in that application though ! Easiest is an EJ22. In the US any 90-98 EJ22 could be installed in your vehicle. 1996-1998 would be easiest. 90-95 requires: dual port exhaust manifold and bolt your 98 intake manifold onto the 90-95. Then it’ll install. There are EGR differences too but they can be worked around and often it’s a non issue. EJ25s have a lot of headgasket issues so after a quarter century it’s difficult to know what you’re getting. I have a good block to sell but distance and logistics no way. Post what you want in parts wanted maybe someone wants some

Any subaru you’re looking at can “pull codes”. 95/96 and newer are compatible with generic OBDII scanners and connectors found in stores and eBay for cheap. 80s and early 90s requires no tool or scanner. Connect two connectors in the vehicle and the light on the dash flashes the code to you.

That’s a power related issue: A: corroded, dirty, or loose terminals. Clean them up good. Check voltage of battery *posts* and voltage at the end of the metal terminal furthest from the battery. Make sure power is getting from the battery through the cable terminal B. Alternator - check output at alt terminal C. Alt belt slipping (alt isn’t spinning fast enough) D. Crank pulley separating (alternator won’t spin fast enough). Draw a line across the face of the crank pulkey and make sure it doesn’t separate after driving. Don’t condemn the battery or alternator until those other items are tested or ruled out.

You should state MT or AT. You have to pull the trans out and remove the front diff to replace the bearings. The AT has side retaining rings and externally replaced seals, the MT does not. For preload - If you *locate* and tighten everything back to where it was you can get away without setting preload. Review the FSM procedure for bearing or front diff replacement. Mark the side retainers and count number of turns and the preload will theoretically be exactly what it was before you worked on it. A guy on here did just that - swapped front diffs and installed everything the same (counted number of turns of side retainers) and it worked fine. Did you price a new bearing yet? One of those front diff bearings is $100+ each. Replace the side seals while it’s apart - they’re directional so different part number each side. Definitely replace the seals if it’s an MT since they’re only accessible internally. AT can be done externally do they can be skipped snd replaced as needed.

It’s always the carb. My friend just bought a chainsaw with fuel injection. Dinosaur tech. Clean it. Adjust it. Look/spray for vacuum leaks and check vacuum hoses. Carb is low fuel pressure. So probably not fuel if you’re getting any. Pull fuel line and crank engine. If it flows out you’re good. Spray starting fluid into intake - does it start?

You’re welcome. They’re a superior option sometimes, the 4EAT isn’t typically one of them. A little context and nuance goes a long way for making an informed decision. Good luck getting it all finished up. Hope it goes smooth….before or after holidays?!

As he clarified…. check diff fluid first. The diff fluid (and any contaminants) is self contained entirely to the trans. If you pull the old trans and toss it - all the diff fluid and contaminants are also gone. It’ll either be larger bits and pieces of gear teeth or “liquified” bearing material swirling suspended in solution in the gear oil. This would be a good sign - no need to worry about the ATF lines being contaminated. But that’s not the case with the ATF. Throw the trans away and there’s still residual fluid (and potential debris) in the hard lines and rubber lines to the trans, ATF filter, cold and hard lines to and from the radiator and inside the radiator itself. Flush all of those ATF lines out if the diff fluid was clean with no signs of gear debris or swirling metal bearing contaminant.

that’s great! Grandfather offered me his truck before he got rid of it. Was 800 miles away in college so I passed. Now I wish I was driving around in his truck. A college friend died in a car wreck. A few years later his dad said. “You know, I’m done with this truck and seeing how you work on cars it seemed like you’d get better use out of it than me just trading it in. I don’t want it to be a trouble but could you use it?” In a few years my son can drive it to school. His name is the last name of that beautiful family who lost their son. I’m a sucker for you rocking your dads car.

Check the ATF for debris and ask them to blow the AT lines out with compressed air (or fluid if they can). Or just blow out the ATF lines and radiators if they can if there's any debris in it. And definitely change the AT filter. I would actually guess it's diff related and not the trans so that's probably not even necessary but since I don't know we have to assume it could be the trans.

I've bought a few JDM engines and trans. My daily driver is an H6 I installed a 100,000 miles ago. Great results - excellent pricing and they've always been squeaky clean as if they have low miles. Newer 2005+ engines are prone to have a damaged connectors or two due to shipping because they of all that variable valve and oil senders/solenoids sticking out everywhere. Minor, I just remedy that myself. Keep in mind no matter what they say - you never know the actual mileage. It's just a rough average based on Japanese driving and car regulation laws that tend to decrease the economic sense of keeping cars long term. And all the suppliers are selling the same exact parts from the same source - none have some "secret supply" of Japanese parts that are any different than another company. So look at reviews in terms of individual service and parts comments in terms of any JDM parts regardless of what stateside company is selling. Don't waste time wondering or worrying if one JDM supplier has "better parts" than another. They're all just filling containers from the dismantling services in Japan. 90k is no big deal for a 4EAT. The difference between a 50k and 90k trans is a wash and more dependent on history/how it was driven or assembled/luck than anything practical related to internals. That's benign. I would only pay a very small premium for that 40k, not much. That's an ideal source, local, can talk tot them, easier warranty if needed and you can sometimes verify the source vehicle - if it lot drove or why it was totaled. 4EAT's are my favorite Subaru transmission - they're excellent - so the warranty isn't likely to be needed - but you've got it if you do. That's probably the one I buy if they have good reviews or are locally known/reputable. I'd pay more for the reputable/local place and pay more attention to that than mileage. For example - two local yards that often have lots of Subaru's. One has smooth transactions, disassembles and stores their parts in massive warehouses inside out of the elements, has the parts pulled for you ahead of time, knows what they have, is very helpful and organized. Another local yard has more subarus but they let the cars and parts lay exposed outside, won't remove them until the last minute (rushed, banging, cutting, tossing it around), aren't very helpful, poor attitudes (i can't imagine how many complaints they must get)...anyway - I'll pay a premium to buy from the other company although they're actually often cheaper or the same somehow. Anyway I'd base my decision more on that and the picture of the car than 50k or 90k. Some car-part.com places show pictures of the car so you can see the damage. Might have to navigate a body part or three to find a picture of the car if they listed pictures for some parts but not the trans. Again - these sellers have no magic sauce for parts support. So the parts from any JDM are the same. And eBay has fairly strict policies that make it really hard (or dumb) to hose a customer. They're working on volume pricing with these Subaru trans and aren't going to suffer a poor review. I think the majority of my JDM engines/trans have been ebay purchases. Most of these companies on ebay you can look up their direct website too - that might give you a better idea for buying from them and see their other options (though that's probably not needed on a 4EAT).

I can't comment on engineered stuff, we don't have any of those regulations. We just swap and drive. Usually you'd sell the car and get what you want unless there's a significantly compelling reason to keep this one. To swap you need: The bare minimum you need to get it drivable: Transmission, flywheel, transmission linkage/shifter, clutch cable, pedal assembly, driveshaft, and rear differential (with matching trans final drive ratio of 4.11). And you need to do some minor wiring work to get the reverse lights to work. Then to finish it off you need the center console, instrument cluster, and cruise control computer (if equipped and you want that to work). And maybe the master cylinder/hill holder components if you want them to operate normally. Most people would install a new clutch so you're not doing the trans pull again later - that requires a clutch kit and to resurface the fly wheel. It's a lot of parts and a lot of work. But it's not "hard", it's just a lot. The transmission assembly is big and bulky but otherwise straight forward, the pedal assemblies suck to remove.

Thats a good price and tells you how low demand is for that trans to be that cheap. When transmissions are in high demand (ie: fail a lot), they are not that cheap on a high value car like yours. That’s good they’re trying to diagnose it - this isn’t common. Its probably the front differential or associated front diff bearings. That can be repaired but one bearing alone is $100 and the ring and pinion set is $600-$1,000. Add labor to address those parts, and pull and remove the trans, - and it’s well over used price.