idosubaru

That was decent of them to try, I mean they're trying to flip something imperfect for a low trade value/appease you, but still decent they're considering options. Some Subaru dealers will install used parts, depends on the dealer, it's worth asking. car-part.com probably has cheap ones since they've already got the car disassembled. i'd ship it for $100 if the dash wouldn't take days to get out.

2900 labor more reasonable than 4000. seems like all those engine pulls it’s possible the harness got yanked or compromised The 2014 bulkhead i have is yours for $1,000 shipping included lol.

It had an engine pulled right? (Maybe even twice, I seem to recall you having a hard time on this thing) 1. Did this CANBUS issue, or any similar issue exist before then? 2. Why was the engine pulled? I think it was mechanical/warranty but trying to be thorough and have the whole timeline 3. How long after the engine pull did the issue start? If it happened after that, there’s a good chance something that happened during work. There’s a few online hits for what has been a relatively obscure part for decades online. Theres complete dash removal video for bulkhead from I-wire. They sell replacement bulkhead connectors requiring de-pinning/re-pinning which seems prone to housing issues/wobbly pins, etc. I wonder if yours could have a damaged connector ? You said they saw damaged wires though? Nothing directly related to yours but 2011 Outback - there’s a couple interesting pictures and noted issues here https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/engine-bulkhead-harness-connector-problems.504735/

If you were digging into this yourself at all you could look into the service manual and what it says about bulkhead replacement. I might even have the 2014-2017 forester, I rebuild a totaled 2017 forester two years ago. I scoured through this crosstek which would very similar in form factor, process, labor - for you briefly but couldnt' find it. Although I did find the dash removal under interior/exterior trim. https://www.sucross.com/subaru_crosstrek_service_manual-728.html

Oh wow, they dug in. It may require dash removal. That's often mentioned as being a 8-12 hour swap for a dash but I've never done one. $4k implies 25 hours of labor. Still a lot of fat in there but maybe there's more to remove and there's a little bit (not much) engine side disconnecting too. Best case scenario would be to identify the precise cause. If it's just light damage or concentrated to a couple wires, find the compromised wires and replace just those individually by passing them one by one through the fire wall. But Subaru can't do that. They only replace entire parts, they wont just run a new wire to bypass a bad one. If that's the case you'd be better off going somewhere else who can do that. If it's excessive damage like rodent damage - then you're probably sitting where you are right now - need a whole new harness and to make sure no other wires were also damaged. The rodent damage I've seen is always one of two areas - really easy/convenient areas like behind a headlight or areas with lots of food - around seats or foot wells in a car with kids. Maybe anecdotal but I've seen a few and those things have always held, not counting old cars that sat for years which is unlikely to be yours.

Has it always made the noise since the clutch job or just started making the noise?

I don’t think there’s anyway to prove it. but yes, it could happen If they got damaged during engine work the most likely area is right by the engine. The connector itself or pins or wire from engine to firewall areas. Maybe the connectors were left plugged in during lifting or left on the IM and stretched, etc. It would be nice to verify a bad wire - check resistance/continuity from cabin to engine. Find one bad wire and then test that wire from the engine to the firewall. See if the compromised area is between the engine plug and firewall.

just noise or vibration and noise? what happens if you also turn the steering wheel without changing speed? Like around a downhill sweeping curve If it’s just noise then clutch or pilot bearing related. vibrating under load is usually inner cv axle joint or front differential. surprised it doesn’t do it when accelerating up hill. Try getting to a stop sign facing up a steep slope and accelerating fast while turning very sharply. Does it make noise then? If you suspect front diff - drain the front diff fluid and sift through the oil for gear bits or swirly metal Thunk between shifts is probably the rear differential bushings or transmission bushings. Window weld can be used to fill in the old rear diff bushings. Clean and prep well. Cut cardboard circles to hold the window weld in place from one side,’and slowly build it up a little at a time so it doesn’t “fall” or flow out of place

Look for a complete hatch. Can you just live with it? If leaking, have it reinstalled. If it’s shattered and hard to find a replacement I wouldn’t be beyond attempting a DIY polycarbonate solution with an eye towards easy future replacement. Some car folks use them for unavailable parts and some postions are less problematic than others. NASCAR vehicles use it. Of course they’re designed with it in mind but the rear hatch is about the best place to use it and mitigates most of the downsides. .

T-Type: is that the 1/2” T shape trim at the exterior top of the windshield? The stalk of the “T” sits down in the windshield gasket?

Miss the simpler days as well. I've ran into issues with that area before fender, headlights, grille, hood all follow one anothers curves. trying to figure out which of those need to be swapped to use different year parts.

Yep, more logistics, though still the best option in terms of price, warranty, and local access rather than shipping the product and shipping potential warranty claims.

Don’t know, only have the H6 one written down and it’s not the same part number.

Subaru part # 10103AB820 New Subaru short block, 3 year Subaru warranty, $2,000 https://parts.raffertysubaru.com/p/Subaru__Legacy/Short-Block-Engine/49223018/10103AB820.html

They're rather tame, I don't think there's any major concerns. EZ engines i don't think have that happen to any greater extent than average. I'm sure you've seen it but there's a TSB for it.

Maybe it got the “turn the radio up the car is making a noise again” fix. The timing sprockets were also gouged and loose?

I’ve got a leaky windshield and would like it reinstalled on my XT6 Any tips on saving existing trim/clips? How much problem do you guys have with trim and clips breaking during removal?

Here's an EA82, ER27 (XT6) solenoid. OEM looks the same with the crimped casing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224219322935?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3Da63accd2079a4c188a89dfcb86847b4d%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D224219322935%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A2782821b18c0a8d8e9dc1a51fffee416|pageci%3A6d8c20d9-9099-11ee-9a94-5a1bd6dadb96|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage The Ebay solenoids I've bought for tractors are similarly priced and cheaply made (shocker!). Rebuild OEM is preferred but there may not be an option except $150 for a new one which is part number 23343AA090. Interesting how some Subaru models are rebuildable or parts aren't carried and other models have all the bendix gears, tabs, levers, etc. https://estore.subarupartswarehouse.com/p/Subaru_1996_Impreza/Starter-Solenoid/49233322/23343AA090.html This shows same 90's impreza/outbacks being the same solenoid so I may scour some pull it yourself yards close to my christmas holiday travels if I can sneak away and the weather isn't nasty.

But the solenoid doesn’t have any bolts or screws, this one is crimped and pressed together. It doesn’t look like it can be disassembled.

I took the solenoid out expecting to rebuild it with new contacts like all the 90-2004 Subarus. XT6, they’re the same as any EA82. So EA82 solenoid contacts can’t be replaced?

Looks awkward but simple, seats are cumbersome to maneuver in and out of the cabin but otherwise it’s not too bad. The seat rail ends/bolt down tabs want to stick out and catch paint if you’re no careful. Hopefully you’re not knocking that out with a foot of incoming snow. yours are probably fine I don’t see this too often, but it’s annoying if it does and you have more rust up there than me so just in case:I’ve had a few that the seat bolts are rusted and have had seat bolt threads strip before. If they feel tight - work them back and forth to slowly break the rust up. If it’s really tight take a break once the bolt turns two or so times. The tighter it is the less turns per break. Go work on something else and let the metal cool down. The threads strip and bolts sheer largely due to heat build up. Heat increases plastic deformation of metals and it also causes things to expand - making the problem worse. Heat will strip a bolt well before the use actually will. let it cool. Spraying lubricant is a lubricant and helps conduct heat away from the point of friction too.

How long and badly the system is as open makes a difference. If I swap a caliper real quick I can bleed quick. If I have the system open for a long time and lots of fluid comes out and MC replaced it can take waaay longer than expected. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if you keep bleeding and eventually get it all out. or you could have an issue. Check for rust or wetness above gas tank where lines run and fluid loss past caliper piston seal under the boot.

Ive used up to almost 96 ounces (3 big bottles) to bleed an open system. It Can take forever. Like 10 or 20 pumps per corner the piston seals can leak and are covered by the piston bolts so you can’t see if they’re leaking. if there’s rusty lines thr rust can have thick layers of rust but no holes, and the fluid just seeps through and wets the rust rather than drips until a lot of fluid is lost. Usually above thr gas tank where you can’t see it.

Have you had an alingment anytime recently, including in the back. There are alignment bolts on the rear control arms of EA82's. Check all bushings and linkages without load. Jack the car up and pry on/around every bushing to see if any are loose. Random guessing here but I'm still not 10)% on the springs. The rear springs are clocked to the strut mounts, so I think it *should* work like you say, but I'd be hesitant enough to confirm without a doubt particularly with such a distinctive issue. This isn't minor.

smaller rims seems simplest, otherwise might be crossing fingers hoping they clear. Id guess on my cars, but be sure on my wife’s!