idosubaru

Okay yeah there’s a couple different bucket and shim styles. I haven’t done the buckets just shim over buckets. Although I’d be tempted to find a an easy way with bucket too. I think They’re always too tight not too loose and the buckets/shim height need shortened to create some slack. Don’t know. There was a Subaru EJ CR calculator out there years ago I used in excel format to determine various specs. Maybe try to find that so you have real numbers? Calling GD GeneralDisorder. He would likely be the best to answer the turbo techy stuff.

Sure do that and keep checking with micrometer. Given the way they operate, it’s not going to matter. I have glass for head resurfacing, but don’t bother for shims. I hit them with an air grinder and check with micrometer. it’s not a flywheel, head or block. Not worried about it.

There's a few configurations, these can be tricky to figure out. What part number is the current belt? You can wrap something around the pullleys - like a rope or shoe string to measure and get an approximate length and then any auto parts store can get you that length, in however many ribs you need. All belts have easily determined lengths based on part numbers. Make sure you take that measurement, wrap the string around the pulleys, when the tension is adjusted very very loose so that you can tighten it. Getting that measurement is a little tricky though - just wrapping and measuring can be a little off due to stretch, grooves, where the tension is set, etc. So try to install it in the parking lot if possible so you can quickly try another. .

Those are shim over bucket? I grind the bucket facing side down to make the shim thicker as needed. They're always too tight and need thinner shims so grinding works. I grind the side not touching the cam. But yeah, PITA and I will probably avoid it for the rest of my life if possible. lol Ah - i see, you didn't have to split the case last time. Got it. Good luck cranking it out.

That was you that bearing slapped an EJ?! Haha, that's fantastic. Which year EJ was it?

Resurface the heads yourself. Rering doesn't require a shop and don't touch Subaru bores. This can be done without a shop. If you do get a shop have them knurl the pistons to prevent piston slap while they're out.

i would either bearing slap it or replace the engine. I wouldn't get into any additional work at all, except re-ring it while it's apart. hope you got it before extensive damage and avoid getting sucked into a rabbit hole. someone else bearing slapped an EJ years ago on here and said it ran fine. one whole example, and wasn't a turbo, wow! but it was interesting to see them try it and succeed.

The auto and manual transmissions are entirely different, definitely not swapping any parts between those. Much simple to swap an entire legacy engine/transmission together. Rear differential needs to match the legacy transmission final drive ratio. If the XT6 was an automatic then the rear diff is a 3.7 final drive ratio. If it was a manual it's 3.9. Legacy I'm unsure - it changes over the years/models/engines. But based on what you're saying the legacy you're referencing will be a 3.9. In which case you'd need a manual trans rear XT6 diff or swap in a legacy diff.

Don't know. The O2 isn't used by any other system in those older vehiclse (like the AT, there's no dynamic control, cluster, etc) and the rear O2 isn't used for fuel trims until 2005 so that should be really simple. It just gets scrubbed to see if the CEL needs triggered. so that should be a simple input, no cross wiring necessary. Of course you'd want it properly powered/grounded/relay/fuse protected and powered at the proper time however Subaru does it. But it shouldn't need to be shared with any other wiring. I'd expect the front to be the same in a 2001 as well - it's a fairly simple O2 and ECU so you should be able to just give it power/ground and pin the input signal to whichever ECU pin needs that signal. But I'm just guessing and dislike messing with ECU's/wiring diagrams despite repinning a 2012 Outback connector right now and being a Flight Software Engineer lmao. Keep in mind - just in case the wiring turns out to be more complex then initially assumed - I'd still install an EJ25 ECU and oxygen sensor and avoid the wiring. ECU's are available for $25.

Was that the Extra S fluid? I think that’s supposed to be very good fluid but a little pricey.

Don’t think so. I mocked one up. The tie rod lengths are whack and mess with steering and the input shaft angle is wrong. I think GLoyale (I forget his exact new user name Fer…something) talked about this tie rod issue and using EA81 tie rods on EJ racks…I think. Also, my bigger issue was it will not pass through the cross member without cutting into the cross member or some other significant adaption to avoid the different offset angles of the input. One could get a picture of them side by side probably to see that difference.

Bad headgasket. JDM or replace the gaskets. Use an OEM radiator cap only If you’re lucky bleed all the air. Burp it good. Nose up while filling.

Loosen and readjust the belt shroud to get pressure off the power steering hose.

Be careful with years and models. For the 99-01 Impreza 2.2 FSM (a 99 legacy 2.2 should be same), You don’t want a 2.5 or turbo. Which aren’t common in those years but turbos get a lot of online attention. For 00-04 FSM you don’t want turbo wiring.

Don’t know how they all are but I’ve downloaded a few from these links in the past. Should be able to just put the ECU wiring side by side and compare to start. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU 2002 ECU pin outs: https://www.xcceleration.com/pinouts.htm

Get an FSM from each of those and compare. I guess start with the ECU and see what’s different. Maybe it’s just the O2 wiring and not the engine. What you see there will tell you if you need to go to the engine harness or oxygen sensor or not. Might get away with just pinning the Oxygen sensor to how the ECU wants it and be done.

There's isn't a great central source since it varies so much by model/year, I just try to find them linked that doesn't look too suspicious. I've probably downloaded 20-30 off the internet and never had an issue.

It's worth looking at the harness diagrams if you don't mind repinning, it just sounds like it could be a rabbit hold if the main engine harness, ECU connector, and oxygen sensor connectors all need repinned. It's worth a look to see, it might just need to be the main engine harness only, or not many pins. Many people don't and sometimes a known solution is better than digging through harnesses towards an unknown end. You'll need an FSM which can be gotten online (or pinouts for the necessary connectors - main engine harnesss, ECU, O2 connector) for a Phase II EJ22 and Phase II EJ25. I used to have those digital FSM's but can't find them. Here's the engines that are all the same if you're looking for pinouts/diagrams online: Phase II EJ22: 1999-2001 Impreza or 1999 Legacy EJ22 Phase II EJ25: Should be any 2000-2004 Legacy, Forester, Outback, Baja, Impreza, all of those engines are plug and play compatible. Or do some combination of visual comparison between both physical connectors and narrowing it down.

Nah. I never said change the engine. Where did you read me say to remove the EJ22 engine? I didn’t. Bolt the EJ25 intake manifold onto the EJ22. Leave the EJ22 the original EJ25 ECU will run it just fine “Reinstall the original EJ25 ECU and EJ25 intake manifold and EJ25 oxygen sensor.”

Reinstall the original EJ25 ECU and EJ25 intake manifold and EJ25 oxygen sensor. You did too much work for no reason. If the engines aren't both from an automatic or both from a manual transmission then swap the EJ25 drivers side cam and crank sprocket onto the EJ22. Follow those steps above and you're done. Have a question....reread the directions above. More wires just has higher fidelity and I think 0-5V is the normal range. Not a big deal. You just need to follow my directions above and the oxygen sensor is a non issue.

You want all the sensors to match the original wiring/ECU. Just change the engine and nothing else. Leave the original oxygen sensors, etc. There's no need to count pins, just leave the old sensors in or replace them with the same part. Is that what you did?

Even since the introduction of FI engines with ECU's subaru has changed parts numbers rapidly even in what look and function as identical ECU's. I've swapped tons from the 1980's, 1990's, and 2000's that have different part numbers. I'm just now seeing "Georgia" means the country, not the US State of Georgia. I'm unsure if that means your market/vehicles are different than US offerings. What's I've told you is true of US markets.

Shirt answer: get a 00-04 Outback ECU Subaru changes ECU part numbers ALL the time, they’re almost pointless for determining compatability. All 2000-2004 Outback/legacy 4 cylinder non turbo, and all non turbo bajas, ECUs swap and plug and play. Yours is an outlier Subaru went CANBUS in 2005 with OB legacy which are notoriously NOT interchangebe plug and play ECU The components are married and need done at a Subaru dealer. You can’t even swap a 2005 legacy GT ECU with another identical 2005 legacy GT unless you take it to Subaru and ask them to wave their magic sorcery electronic sauce at it. But since the Baja was just a 00-04 Outback castrated in the rear, the later 05-06 models are just 00-04 outback’s. they didn’t redesign the Baja to later Gen aesthetics or components. this will confuse online listings and information which doesn’t have the fidelity or experience to parse all that At least that’s my understanding. 05+ are off years as Subaru rolled out CANBUS technology piecemeal across models. But it’s fairly safe to say your 05 baja is just a 00-04 OBW and you can use any 00-04 Outback or legacy non turbo 4 cylinder ECU

I routinely avoid the disconnect battery step. I’ve worked on totaled wrecked Subarus airbags without pulling the battery. I’ve removed and replaced airbags in running Subarus to leave the AC on while I’m disassembling the ceiling and interior for the side impact curtain air bags. That takes forever and the back gets hot in the summer. I’ve plugged and unplugged airbags countless times in vehicles that are on. Bad idea I know but there it is I’ve also tied string to a wrench and pulled it right to a brand new fully charged battery posts and nothing but a small spark or three happened. Boring and disappointing. The type of wrench and it’s alloy/hardening or coating matters. The hard part was deciding when it was safe to go push the wrench off. Lol. Of course I’m not recommending any of this, and as an engineer with excessive Subaru experience I am discerning and will disconnect sometimes…and of course one day it will end badly.

His implied point is to flush the entire cooling system. I use Georgia Tech gecko adhesion technology on my tires for those 90 degree grades. Now, off to keep skis and tubes from falling out of the boat….