jeffroid

Good idea ! (photo). I was going to suggest to pick something on the engine that the rotor is pointing directly at, and make sure the rotor is still pointing at that spot when it goes back in. I've never seen this on any Subaru I've messed around with, but some vehicles have a slot at the base of the shaft that turns the oil pump. Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, the slot will not line up even if you don't rotate the engine and put it back the same way. Don't ask me how this happens, but it has happened to me. If this occurs, you will have to reach down with a long screwdriver and reposition the mating slot in the oil pump to get the distributor back in.

Thanks for all the help, everybody. The mileage is 150K. After reading the replies and sleeping on it, what I'll do change the oil and listen to it run to see if I can get a few more clues. As fast as it's pumping the water out though, I don't think it's going to be much of a run. Based on the looks of the dipstick, I'm sure I'm going to find a lot of water in the drain pan. With those leakage readings, and coolant in the oil, I'm sure I'm looking at a complete rebuild, assuming the "bad" side is due to the head gasket and not something else more dastardly. If I do a complete rebuild, what am I looking at in terms of costs for a kit that will have rings, bearings, and all the seals, gaskets, etc that I'll need, and where's the best place to get such a kit? Thanks again.

Thanks for the quick replies. That brings up a stupid question that I've been meaning to ask for a while. What does N/A mean? I've got a couple of guesses, but not sure. And I've got EA81 non turbo shortblocks at my disposal. If my turbo shortblock is toast, what else do I have to do to use one of those besides accommodate the knock sensor? I'll need to use the turbo pistons, correct?

I’ve been posting asking questions about an ’84 turbo wagon with engine trouble in the last couple of weeks. Well, I bought it, got it home, and now the saga begins. It started and ran – drove it up on the tow dolly. When I got it home (yes, I disconnected the driveline), the first thing I did was a leakdown test. The motor appears to be toast. I don’t want to make this post too long, but the leakdown results seemed to indicate that I’m looking at much more that just heads or head gaskets. The leakage percentages were 45% and 65% on the right side, and you could hear coolant bubbling, but couldn’t hear much leakage at all through the valves. On the left side the rear cylinder reading was 80% leakage with nothing noticeable past the valves, and on the front cylinder, as soon as I hooked up the tester, water would run rapidly out of the radiator. So I must be looking at a total rebuild best case, but probably a cracked shortblock, right? I’m really bummed. I didn’t pay that much for it, but this wagon is in EXCELLENT shape – totally stock. From what I’ve been able to glean from this board, EA81t’s are pretty rare, right? Will I be able to find another engine? If I try to drop in a non-turbo EA81, will I be looking at a nightmare come true when it comes to all the systems and wiring and stuff? I will need to pass emissions. Could I get some suggestions on what to do? Is there a way I can determine whether or not the block is cracked or not before I proceed to rip into this thing? I appreciate any help I can get.

I've had exhaust leaks cause backfiring as well.

Thanks for the quick help. I'll give it a try after lunch today.

I was reading the thread below by STiVI in regards to his misfiring EA82. Can't think of anything to help him, but my Hitachi carbed EA81 just started misfiring and running like crap the other day. I initially thought it was ignition problems so I tried swapping coils, distributors, etc. from my other parts cars. To make a long story short, I couldn't really tell if I was making much of a difference or not. Things may or may not have changed, but it still ran like crap no matter what I tried. Well, I was reading the response in the other thread from Skip, and he is asking about hearing a popping sound from the intake. I am DEFINITELY hearing a distinct but intermittant popping sound from within the carb. What exactly does that indicate?

Thanks for the good words. I bought it last week but haven't had a chance to get it down to my house yet. I've been thinking a lot about it and definitely want to try and keep it intact. A good friend of a good freind has got a shop up near where I got it from. He has been kind enough to hang on to it until I can make room at my house. In the meantime he is going to try and figure out what's wrong with it. I'm not in a huge hurry and I don't want to pass up the free help. Anyway, I'll get it down here in a week or two and will be back with plenty of questions I'm sure.

Interesting posts. At the risk of poking my nose in where it doesn't belong, if I could make a suggestion, It would be to not use Fram oil filters. Do a search and you will find that subject has been discussed ad nauseum. No offense intended - just trying to help.

Thanks everybody. I think I'm going to try and get this wagon. I'm sure I'll be back after I get it home and start messin' around with it.

Thanks for the help. My plan is to get it home (if I so choose) see if the problem is the engine/turbo or the tranny. Best case is if it were the tranny then I'd just swap in a manual. If there is something wrong with the turbo I'd rather ditch the turbo than try and fix it 'cause I'm ignorant in regards to turbos (among other things). If I drop in a carbed EA81 won't the wiring and engine and fuel control systems, and emissions, be a nightmare to figure out? That's why I was thinking I'd stay with the MPFI - everything is already there. I don't have any EA82 stuff laying around. If I put the turbo top end on a non turbo EA81 block, won't the compression ratio be wrong? I recall from searching that the pistons are different - flat or domed vs dished? That's why I figured I'd need to swap the lower ends to ditch the turbo. I REALLY appreciate your and anyone elses responses. All I'm trying to figure out right now is if this is something I should tackle. If I decide to actually try and do something with this car, I am sure you will all get tired of reading my desperate requests for help.

I have a chance to pick up a straight clean 84 wagon with MFPI turbo and an automatic tranny. It supposedly runs but doesn't drive. I don't know if it's the tranny or the motor that is the problem, but that is kind of besides the point of my questions as follows: How much trouble would it be to end up with a non-turbo MPFI set up in the wagon? I'm understanding I can't just ditch the turbo or the compression ratio would be wrong. I've got spare EA81 shortblocks sitting around - that would fix that problem, right? So, am I correct in assuming that I'd pull the engine, put the MPFI heads on a non turbo shortblock, put everything back in, and get rid of the turbo stuff? If correct, how much trouble with wiring, control modules, etc. am I looking at? In general, is this going to be relatively easy to do? I'd also like to ditch the auto tranny. How much trouble is it to drop in either a dual range 4 speed or five speed? I've searched and read about the 5 speed upgrade from the 4 speed on the EA81, so I know about all that. As for my capability, I'm a half decent at best backyard mechanic and have done a lot of work on my EA81's. I don't know jack about turbos though. I did do a search and apologize if I missed any threads on these subjects. I appreciate any help. I need to decide pretty soon whether to pick up this wagon or not.

I think my EA81's hold about 4 quarts, but I don't have any of my books on board.

Couldn't it be one of the intake gaskets?

I'm no expert but I saw this and your other post so I'll just tell what happened in my case: I still haven't seen you share your make, model, and details on fuel system, but on my carbed '83 GL the FPCU is a little black box with a six wire connector. It's mounted down on the inside "kick panel" near the drivers side left foot. You will need to remove the panel under the dash, and the FPCU shares the same mounting screw as the hood release lever. If you followed my earlier story, I was trying two different FPCU's that were behaving totally differently in terms of how many volts they were supplying to the pump and when. I got completely frustrated when it wouldn't even work hotwired, and out of desperation I started swapping parts from my parts car. Luckily, I started with the coil and noticed the little black wire that runs from coil positive through the little capacitor to ground was broken. I fixed that and it eleviated the problem (more on the howire below). I'm still not sure how in the hell that worked, because I figured that little capacitor was only for radio noise suppression. Maybe I've got some kind of grounding problem somewhere else and that little coil wire is compensating or something. In any regard, I still have the FPCU issues and am running the fuel pump off of a hotwire directly from a wire that is hot with the key on, to the fuel pump. It is switched at the dash and is spliced into and common to the positive wire from the FPCU so that I can trouble shoot by unhooking the wire from the switch and use that wire with a voltmeter to tell when and how many volts the FPCU is sending. I've been daily driving that way ever since because I'm working in my yard, it's been raining a lot, gets dark at like 4pm up here, and I had other more urgent priorities. I would try a hotwire. It would at least get you going so that you could troubleshoot. If I was doing mine again I might not splice the wire into the wire from the FPCU because that may have been what fried my FPCU. Hope that helps.

THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE HELP ! ! ! I was grasping for straws so I decided to swap the coil from my parts wagon. While doing so, I found the little black wire that runs from the positive coil terminal through the little capacitor to ground was broken. I replaced that and instant improvement. Put it all back together and took it on the highway - runs awesome. I think I still have some issues with the FPCU, but for now it runs great with the fuel pump hotwired. I can dink around with that tomorrow. NOW I AM GOING TO HAVE A BEER ! ! ! ! ! ! Thanks again everybody who helped.

Thanks for the help, Skip. Today is a huge step backwards. Now it's just running like dog crap all the time, no "reset" by shutting down and restarting. I don't think it's fuel related now. The filter in the engine compartment stays full all the time. It still idles, and I can see a strong spray of fuel in the throat when I manually goose the throttle. I'm back to square zero and frustrated. I have to take a step back and regroup. I think it might be electrical now. Thanks to everyone that tried to help - I'll be back.

Sorry to those of you who could give a flying you know what about my fuel pump. For those of you who might be able to help and care to, please read on. I have just about eliminated fuel delivery issues. Here is what happened: Please recall that my car acted up with the fuel pump "hotwired", bypassing the FPCU for the first time last night. Well, I went to change the fuel pump and found that the ground wire connection at the fuel pump had come undone. I fixed that and started troubleshooting with my volt meter as follows. I took the wire that I had been using as a hotwire and unhooked it from the spot I had been using as a voltage source under the dash. That wire was still spliced into the positive wire from the FPCU right at the fuel pump. I used that wire to monitor voltage at the pump through the FPCU. The FPCU I had been using delivered 8 volts with the key on, and 0 volts with the engine running. I swapped in the spare FPCU from my parts car, and then had 0 volts with the key on and 14 Volts with the engine running. I left the spare one in and took off for a test drive. I hit the interstate and ran it hard. It ran QUITE WELL at first, but after about five miles it started cutting out again. NO change on the voltmeter - 14 Volts to the pump. I took the next exit and pulled into a parking lot without killing it. At idle, still 14 Volts. I got under the car and the fuel pump was pumping. Looked under the hood and the filter was full of fuel. The choke was also open. The car was still in the "run crappy" mode, but never died. I turned the key off, restarted the car, and it was still in run crappy mode. I turned the key off again, waited about five minutes, restarted again and it was out of the run crappy mode. I drove home normally on the side roads without it going back into the run crappy mode again. So, to summarize, I think I have eliminated fuel delivery issues. The car will cut out and begin to run crappy only after several minutes of highway driving, or after driving through town like a moron, flooring it and driving from stop to stop as quickly as possible without getting arrested. Turning the key off and restarting seems to reset it and put it back out of run crappy mode, but not as readily as before. Any ideas ? ? ? I'm almost thinking carb now, but why would turning the key on and off seem to reset it and cure the problem until the next period of high fuel demand? Again, sorry for the long post and HAPPY THANKSGIVING ! ! ! !

Sorry, but I need to bump this back up again because I had another incedent and have an entirely new question. The '84 wagon started crapping out on me last night even with the fuel pump hotwired. I still haven't finished my troubleshooting with the voltmeter, but I picked up another pump last night so I could install it today (Turkey Day) if I needed to. Problem? The Haynes manual I have says the fuel pump specs should be 1.35 to 2.06 PSI and 7.4 gallons/hour. The smallest pump I could find in any of the local parts stores last night was a Purolator PRO 06SV that puts out 4-7 PSI and 32 gallons/hour. I picked it up, but checked on the Purolator website when I got home, and they also make a PRO 04SV. They don't give the numbers on that one, but it's the one recommended for Subaru carb engines. It's the same price. Question - Is using the higher flow pump going to "over power" my carb or whatever and put too much fuel in it? Or is the 06SV going to be OK to use? I guess my basic problem is that I don't understand exactly how things work. I think that the fuel pump fills the float bowl up and seats a needle which stops the flow when the level gets to the proper level. But is the extra few PSI going to over power the needle? Or is that even how it is supposed to work? I would just go down and try and get the 04SV, but it's Turkey Day and everything is closed. SAFE AND HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYBODY AND PLEASE HELP IF YOU CAN ! ! !

I'm not a chemistry geek, but MEK or MPK can remove just about any adhesive I've ever come across.

Thanks - great ideas. I did not disconnect the FPCU and it did occur to me that I may have damaged it with the hotwire. I'm going to play around with the voltmeter before I do much of anything else.

Thanks - So you are saying that the FPCU senses temp and controls the choke. Where does it get the temp from? As I recall, the wiring diagram shoes it going to the choke, but I didn't notice the FPCU connected to any sensor. The fuel pump doesn't care what the temperature is, does it? In other words, the FPCU doesn't change the voltage to the fuel pump depending on temperature, does it? In any regard, my choke seems to be working fine. I like the idea of the light. I was thinking about trying to figure out a way to hook up my multimeter so I could monitor voltage to the pump while I was driving down the road. A light might be a lot easier, and I am trying to avoid concluding it is the fuel pump until I am sure I am getting the proper voltage to the pump when I am supposed to, especially when for now the pump appears to be working fine "hot wired". Anyway, thanks for the help.

Interesting. That's kind of a curve ball. Thanks for the idea, Tim. Sounds like that's what your problem was, but I think I've got more troubleshooting to do before I decide to swap carbs. For one, at least for now it appears that hot-wiring my fuel pump has eliminated the symptoms. I don't know if that points me to the carb or not. I need to check some voltages to the fuel pump under different conditions also. I don't have a decent manual yet (FSM scored and on it's way in the mail), but the wiring diagram in my Haynes and some of the other posts indicate that the FPCU talks to the choke. Does anybody know why in the hell it needs to talk to the choke? Is there something to do with the fuel pumping or not pumping depending on the choke postition or vice versa? Or does that little box (FPCU) just happen to control the fuel pump and choke independent of each other?

Thanks for the reply - my post was getting long enough as it was to elaborate, but I have pretty much eliminated tuneup and and filter issues. Both filters are brand new, and I can watch them fill up easily when the pump is operating properly. Plus, like I said, when it starts running crappy all I have to do is turn the key off and back on again and it runs like a bat out of hell. I'm with you on an erratic fuel pump being a possibility, but I'm not even sure when or when I am not getting voltage to the fuel pump. I have to do a better job of troubleshooting. I reckon I need to figure out a way to monitor the voltage to the fuel pump while I am driving down the road. But are those fuel pumps inherently finicky by nature? I couldn't get the one out my parts car to work bench testing it with a battery charger, and it was working fine when I quit driving the car and parked it in my yard. I would have already replaced it, but they want like 50 - 60 bucks for one. Anyway, thanks again for the reply and any for any help that anybody else can provide.

Sorry for the long post, but I did my homework and searched the forum first and I still don't understand. I've been posting about my '83 GL 4WD wagon. I got it all back together and have been driving it back and forth to work and it's been doing fine. This weekend I took it out on the highway for the first real time. After a while at 65-70 it would cut out and run crappy but not die. I'd exit and roll up to the stop sign or light or whatever and it would still idle, but when I'd go to take off driving again, it would die. As soon as I turned the key and restarted, it would be fine again, until I got back on the freeway and drove for a while at 65-70. After a while, I figured out that all whenever it started acting up all I had to do was turn the key off and back on again and it would "reset" and run fine for a while until the next period of high fuel demand at which point it would start all over again. Like I said, I searched thoroughly and read all the posts about the Fuel Pump Control Unit. I figured it was bad and was making the fuel pump think the car wasn't running and shutting off the fuel pump for safety. I replaced the unit with the one from my parts wagon. It looked the same, but the part number was very slightly different, although both wagons have Hitachi carbs. Anyway, that didn't work - same problem so I switched the FPCUs back. Also, I'm thinking, If it is that control module telling the fuel pump that my engine is not running and to go into "safe" mode, it's going to shut me down completely, not just make me run crappy, right? And how come it never showed up for weeks until I got on the highway and drove 65-70 MPH? BUT if it's something else like filters or fuel pump or carb, how can the thing be instantly fixed just by turning the key off and back on again? So I ended up patching into the hot (blue) wire right at the fuel pump, and spliced another wire to run right back to a dash mounted switch and then to a wire that is hot with the key on. That seems to fix the problem. But now, it appears that the pump won't run at all unless the hot wired switch is turned on. In other words, it's not doing what it did before - "fixing" itself by turning the key off and on again. Again, sorry for the long posts, but this is really a rubix damned cube trying to figure out, and I was hoping that someone would have an idea as to what my problem is, or what that Fuel Pump Control Module is actually supposed to do (and how and why). THANKS ! ! !