ShawnW

Its a Gen2 Subaru Brat with ea81 engine. Parts interchange from the "ea81" cars or commonly known as the 80-84 series. As you already know they did the brat and the hatch past 84 to add to the confusion. Up to 89 for Hatch and 87 for Brat. I have been argued with on those years but have owned both of them. The switch description for the ignition on the back of the lock tumbler is the same design type as described. The lock has the switch screwed to the back of it just like the ea82/leone loyale series too so his information was actually good. Tri Flow or Graphite only in locks. MANY locksmiths sell Tri Flow as do many bike shops. Its not cheap but it works great. If anything will fix it that will.

The 1990 Engine block itself is fine. Just take the manifold off and put the 95-98 EJ22 manifold without an EGR valve and the harness from that car. Tackle the wiring or send it to one of the guys on here (like me) that do harnesses. I think Numbchux does them still and there's probably a couple others. I also like the 1994 wiring if you want to stick with OBD1 that is the best one. I also prefer an Impreza harness over a Legacy usually. Usually simpler and all of these seem to have the main engine plugs and the ECM on the passenger side of the the car and engine compartment.

If it was turbo it would have an oil return line on the passenger side head. Post photo of the cracks and we can verify they are ok. Typically across between the seats is ok but if the cracks go down into the ports scrap the heads. You could also have the heads lock n stitched but its usually cost prohibitive. My guess is all 4 of the heads are probably ok but it would be better to see them.

I can ship them. I also sell the EJ rebuilt engine at $2800 or $3300 installed.

I can ship you one.

Can be done with a rod but usually have to pull the pan when you drop the lifter.

You could try something like a BG engine flush to see if the lifters quiet down. I tend to install copper valvetrain shims under the valve springs on the performance builds and sometimes shave the end of the valve a little. You can pull the lifters in car which you of course know. Which pushrods are you running? I don't like using the adjustable ones with the hydraulic lifters and have seen that be noisy.

Always nice to keep one out of the crusher. I crush too many but I like that I am saving at least 3 others by crushing one. That wouldn't be true if it weren't for guys on this board buying a few parts here and there as well as Craigslist of course. Its funny too, the ones I figure on parting before I see them usually end up saved and vice versa. People just exaggerate good or bad so much.

Part number is correct above 806738070. In stock here but shipping probably kills compared to ordering one seal locally.

How many do you want? Happy to price them.

Cams on a 4 cam is pretty expensive. Price it with Delta Camshaft though their prices are certainly fair.

Above I said impact DRIVER not impact GUN.

Is a used part legal in Canada? Selling a cat here is illegal.

How old are the spark plugs?

The cams on this head turn easily? Impact driver will usually get them off.

1/4" drive wobble socket and long extension with the engine mounts undone and the engine about 1.5" out of the mounts. Did 3 in a day on various Subaru's but that was with a lift. Another shop used inferior silicone and outsourced warranty repairs to my shop. Ultra Grey from Permatex or Red Fuji Bond from Subaru-seems to be a permanent fix. I ditch the cork gaskets on the ea81s for these.

I have an electric motor repair guy here and most yellow pages do too.

Air hose fittings all seem to leak where Lisle ones or even the ones in the CH bins at Lowes don't. The floor type spring compressor bends under load. Those vehicle dollies mentioned above I have had decent luck with. No good on rough surfaces but that's expected. 20 ton press seems ok so far-1.5 years of pro type use but not heavy use just a monthly manual trans rebuild. Sand blast cabinet ok but latch on door failing. Should be an easy fix but I don't like fixing tools I like using them to fix or do things. I have enough work to do. The commonly on sale Sawzall is a piece of junk. Replaced with a Hitachi from Lowes for about 40 bucks more and never looking back. I do buy my Baking Soda for my blast cabinet here-not too bad a deal with a coupon which is virtually constant at this store. I run my own shop RetroRoo-a Subaru specialty shop and virtually everything in my shop is Snap On. I can finance it and its nice to ultimately own "the best". I dont think this is often necessary for do it yourself guys but if you are going to spend the time to save yourself the labor money of paying a mechanic maybe you can justify the cost of professional tools. New or used. Pawn shops, ebay, Craigslist, etc. Treat yourself to a few key good ones and don't look back. Pass them on to the next generation of mechanics when you kick the bucket and keep the money in the USA instead of China with most of these investments. Cornwell and Snap on for example employ many people in Wisconsin, Illinois and Ohio. Nice, hard working Midwestern Americans still making long lasting Chromed stuff. End rant. The only reason I have any of their stuff is for my Junkyard toolkit now. Its lifetime guarantee and if I lose it I don't cry much. Lose a Snap On Wrench or socket and a little tear might appear since 20-100 or more bucks just disappeared. Everything to pull an engine, transmission, axle or an entire dash/interior is in a bag the size of a SLR camera bag and hides in my wagon discreetly and moves from car to car easily.

If they cross even one blurry line their job is on the line. Its not always the cops fault and the thieves certainly out number them by a lot.

Pirtek right next to my shop does a real nice SS line for me every time I need them and really reasonable pricing.

Welcome back! Always like seeing old faces return.

Drum brakes in the back leaking and you can't see it?

Great photos and the clearance is fine. Those items aren't going to move so what's the problem?

Im failing to see the problem. A majority of the engines I purchase used look just like that inside. That cleans off easily in my parts washing equipment. Poorly maintained ones take hours more to clean but yours wouldn't fall into that category. Expecting it to look like bare aluminum and brand new isn't realistic.

I too would scrap that box. I would bet the case is distorted where the main case meets the center case in the bearing areas. A used one is too readily available to make this one worth messing with. As a shop I get a 6 month warranty from 2 of my salvage yard suppliers and frankly I think anything that will last 6 months usually will last 6 years. Get some Extra S fluid from Subaru for your new to you trans and don't look back.