ShawnW

I too would scrap that box. I would bet the case is distorted where the main case meets the center case in the bearing areas. A used one is too readily available to make this one worth messing with. As a shop I get a 6 month warranty from 2 of my salvage yard suppliers and frankly I think anything that will last 6 months usually will last 6 years. Get some Extra S fluid from Subaru for your new to you trans and don't look back.

Another known good used one and move the seals over might be best bet.

Let me know if you want to bring it by my shop sometime. Usually little to no charge to take a look at it. I also highly recommend Subaru Extra S Fluid and use that exclusively. Its a factory gear oil and doesn't cost much more than than anything you can buy off the shelf at a parts store. Seems to really work well in all the Subaru transmissions.

What part of OZ are you going to? Anywhere near Brisbane?

Excellent! Go cheez!

Its in your FSM if you have a few minutes look in there. You will need a 2nd person.

Its gone then. Take apart the front diff assembly like noted above or install a manual trans conversion. 5 speed is only really time consuming to install.

The Loyale, XT, GL 4x4 cables are all the same length on the 4wd ones. I would order one from Flatirons.

Frankly, just leave the factory harness where its at and run new speaker wires and acc and battery memory wires. The factory harness doesn't have a memory wire because its a manual push button radio, the speaker wires aren't any good and the only useful wires would be the switched power. Just as easy to grab a junkyard plug for that if you are wanting to use that wire.

I just watched Wheeler Dealers make something very similar on a Renault Alpine project they did.

Are those the thick vented rotor ones or the solid rotor ones?

Are you going to add the hill holder system while you are doing it?

Red Fujibond has never failed me. Not for an engine case and frankly its pretty crazy to think that Subaru's factory manual calling for it is a bad thing. In my shop-what they say in the book goes unless I know I can do better, for less money, etc but those instances are certainly rare and don't apply to sealants. For the water pump I like the metal oem type gasket. It comes with the good pumps like GD mentioned above. Its much easier to clean up a metal oem type gasket than silicone next time someone needs to replace it and I like that. I use ultra grey on surfaces that I don't consider extreme critical. Things that don't come apart in a matter of minutes like the rear separator plate or something of that nature. Its certainly a lot cheaper than Fujibond-about 1/3 the cost and much more convenient for most people to obtain.

The socket is $18. You have a PM with a sale offer.

I often buy an drive enclosure so I can install the hard drive in it and connect it to any computer with a USB port. Helpful if the computer dies you can buy another new/used one and grab all the data off it real easily and keep the drive intact until you know you got all your files off.

The OEM part is of course a little better quality but with the EA series, the t-stat is on the top of the engine and less prone to being a problem when its a Stant or other similar brand.

That's a newer model Subaru part for Legacy, Impreza, Forester, etc. Doesn't work on the ea82 or ea81 series cars or engines.

I have found two at the junkyard in the last week that were like new. I soda blasted them, washed them and then rustoleum painted them black and have had no problems. I wouldn't not put the plastic thing on I just wash the car and make sure I rinse that area well.

I read it as saying "Fit for Fuji EJ25" and I have seen both they aren't identical but I think the quality is about equal and I like installing these more-much easier to get the oil rings on right.

Welcome back. I personally think the 2nd gen Brat is a much nicer vehicle to drive and since you have had an 84 GL-10 I think you would appreciate that age of Brat more than the 78-81. Watch for rust or be willing to fix some.

That's an awesome shortblock assembly you have there. Maybe the best ea82 block I have ever seen. zzz zzz

Its possible your "new" rotors are warped too.

Yep. And its not possible to knock them out that way on an EA or ER engine.

I have a grey STD hatch floor rubber setup in a box that I am not going to use now. No reasonable offer refused, needs a little cleaning work if I remember but it should clean up real neat.

Does the steering wheel shake or your butt in the seat? You might have rotors in the rear going bad. My 95 does.