ShawnW

Thats your pilot bearing. REPLACE IT with any clutch job. That little guy takes a big beating. Id also recommend tossing out the rubber cover that the flywheel access hole is plugged with. That will occasionally shrink a little, fall into the bellhousing, and reak havoc.

EVERYONE: Please be sure to use the feedback system on USMB. Alot of this could have been avoided. John isn't perfect but hes providing a service that no business would be able to properly provide services for so I think we should cut him some slack but if you disagree, or it takes an unexcusable amount of time you are more than able to leave him (or anyone) a negative feedback. Please also be sure to not duplicate postings in an attempt to "get your point across". Thanks, Shawn Former ASSISTANT ADMIN, back when there was a BillyC on USMB.

Shape Doesnt matter, almost any of them are very user friendly on the instructions too.

Flush with the block and no further. Tap it in with a rubber mallet.

Ill sell you my custom axles with 0 miles on them but they have been installed. I paid $120 a piece for em i want 100 each for em and you can keep your cores I won't need em. Im going to rebuild my transmission and switch the stubs out so I can run standard axles. These were built by CV Of Ocala.

How much boost do you really need with twin turbo xt6? Seems like a stock 7PSI would be unbelievable as is to me.

Congrats to Mick (McBrat) for getting a full page picture of his Brat flinging mud on page 3! Theres a pretty damn happy passenger aboard too.

Yes, they have em on the Carb'd engines and usually 2 on the ea82's.

Compression tester into #1. Turn engine by hand until compression rises and then watch the flywheel for the 0 mark.

Thats normal.

Just to help you not repeat your mistake. Cam gears have arrows on them. Make sure they point at 2:00 and the notch in the side of the gear is at 12:00. The solid lines on the new timing belt (USE A NEW ONE!), line up on the 12:00 marks. The crank gear has a notch for 12:00, make sure thats pointed at 12 and that another mark at 3:00 is pointed at 3, dont make it so you have 9 and 12 on the crank. The Key for the crank pulley should be at the bottom if you have it right. Also be sure you dont follow the manual on the crank pulley bolt torque. Books say around 80 pounds, it should be around 120. A healthy 1/2" impact gun will torque it properly. Use Locktite on the bolt. If your belt tensioner looks like a long tube with two bolt on ears, you can re-compress it in a Vise. If it doesnt, then either get a new one (recommended) or take it to a Subaru dealer to have them re-compress it for you.

Marketplace is a good place to start for just the CD section if its the 2 din separate radio that has am/FM/Cass on top and CD on bottom, etc. Ebay has always been good for the 6 disc in dash takeout units from WRX's and such. These look and sound awesome!

A 80-84 4wd wagon or coupe tank will work in an 82-88 Brat as well, dont rule those out. Hatch won't work.

Does your dome light flicker on when the key chime comes on? If so the door switch is bad. Attack the cause of the problem instead of the result.

Avoid 89 and 90 Legacy transmissions(yes there is an 89 Legacy). Otherwise the 91-94 are the most durable IMO.

The dealer needs to plug their "SELECT MONITOR" into it. THe AT OIL light is coming on because theres a fault stored in the trans computer.

That sounds like the coil to me.

look at: yokohama avid touring, michelin X radial.

Take the battery out and to a parts store. Have it tested. If bad, Replace and start there. Maybe you cleaned the interior and switched the park light switch on?

I use a 2' long 1/2" drive breaker bar and have to push with nearly all my weight (140#'s) to bust em loose. Ive torn down at least 25 of them and they are always stubborn, more so if the engine has had head gasket issues.

Block is scrap. youre never going to be able to trust it to hold a timing belt properly.

COULDNT AGREE MORE!

Really shouldnt be doing anything to the cyl walls now that the pistons are installed unless you want to take em back out. The grit created would cancel out any productive gain you do to them and hopefully the pistons are sized to the block properly and enlarging anymore wouldn't be good either.