ShawnW

You can do it by splitting and then unbolting half of each rod but its a total pain and hard in your fingers. Get a 14MM hex head and take the access holes out and pull them out properly.

If they are bent you can usually eyeball it. I might guess you arent getting it on tight enough.

I used Northwet express to ship one. Very reasonable. Downside, I think the shipping company is out of business for a while now.

Drift chisel.

Alot of them dont have an ECU. If you have an 02 sensor you have an ECU, if you don't then you...don't. 02 is mounted in the exhaust pipe next to the front catalyst.

Yup, thats clutch.

Check for a torn CV Boot too, gravel in there can make noises like this. Not ball joints or tie rods. Doubt its the trans thats pretty low speed for 4th gear anyway isn't it? Also try engaging 4wd, backing up 15 feet straight, and disengaging 4wd. Make sure you are above 2000 RPM when in a drive gear (not low range) as lugging the engine can kindof make that noise.

Eliminate the gear by speeding up to that speed and stick it in neutral. If it goes away its the trans, if it doesnt you probably have a wheel bearing or dirt in the brakes. Try to: Wash behind the wheels with a pressure washer/car wash sprayer. You probably have gravel between the spash guard for the brake rotor on the front if I had to guess. May require you to take the wheel off, hub off, rotor off and blow out the backside of the brake sys.

Yep, i gotta put that on the adjenda to work with Shadow on when hes not so busy. Sorry for the delays. We haven't Veto'd the idea obviously its going to happen in the form of a resto forum that should cater to just about everything ea81/ea82 and older for all that parts finding, rust repair, etc discussion that so many restoration projects have in common.

Those rubber covers are overrated IMO. They have been known to heat up, shrink and fall into the bell housing. They arent really protecting anything either. I think the tool of choice here is a grabber tool if Miles Fox's idea doesnt work. Id remove that plate he refers to and leave it off, it too does no real good.

The Legacy will outperform in nearly every category. No worries on the performance, and the engine is unbelievable both durable and powerful and capable of alot more HP.

Thank you, sorry I missed the post earlier. Looks cool.

Working on putting Mercedes wheels on it now. They are 15" and the same bolt pattern but a different bolt diameter so gotta get past that. Solution in the works, will post success note later.

Any chance of posting a picture of the headlight washers?

Diagram in Haynes is Fig 7.9 on page 154, item 4. Mine is the 1980-1989 version in Red cover.

Yep, seal is replaced with the trans split.

Well the oil is either coming from the Rear main on the engine or the shaft seal. The first is more likely but if you are only losing oil from the trans thats your problem.

Degrease engine and trans, remove the splash plate (plate is 3x6" between engine/trans on bottom of engine secured by 2 small bolts with 10MM heads), and check again. There are multiple places for the trans to leak here including side seals at the axles, and the front collar might be leaking but the seal is inside the trans.

He might draw on your basement walls.

Go a little older than 95, go 93-94 instead. ODBII is great but if you dont have the scanner it stinks and the older you can pull codes yourself. The EGR isn't worth the hassle either.

Re-schedule maybe? Im not done with my projects either. Was hoping to go in my Vanagon and not wheel it of course but at least spectate and man a video camera, etc.

Did you make sure you didnt lose the key?

Theres no stock overflow bottle for a Brat, just fill the radiator to the very top tab on the inside of the radiator and monitor the level at each oil change. The tach jump is probably a worn out distributor, check for shaft play on the rotor. The rad fan wont come on if the wire between the body and the top of the radiator isn't present. People replace the radiator and forget this wire frequently.

So when you say don't remove the 4 bolts, I should be taking off the bolt thru the bushing in callout number 13 below? YES.

Take the balljoint bolt out not the castle nut off the bottom of the control arm. Easier and doesnt do anything to the alignment. Yes, the legacy axles are pretty straight forward/easy.