ShawnW

Im going to be selling my custom axles that I got for the exact application youre doing. Never actually drove them just installed them and now I think I will just take the trans apart and change stubs instead so I can use std axles. I will Sell em for $110 each, exactly what I paid.

Depending on cost that could be okay but sounds like youre going to be spending some money and the car is only worth between 1400 and 2000 dollars at the most (in good condition) I would say.

Yep, all EA engines take the same plugs at the same gap.

Please do a search, this is a frequently discussed topic. Search Axle and user Edrach for about the best possible writeups.

There should be a hex plug in the oil pump that accepts the sender you bought. I dont think the hole for the idiot sender isnt used for the gauge sender. I personally wouldnt bother with the wiring change for the 5 speed as you can pretty much tell when the 4wd is engaged by feeling the lever or if your happen to forget its on, turn a sharp corner and find yourself binding.

I have a used one you can have for the cost of shipping.

You really just have to get an ODBII reader and pull the code and attack it as usual. Autozone might pull codes for free in your area.

Not retorqued, just torque them the one time instead of the 6 step procedure.

You will have no problems re-using the bolts and washers. I have done it on at least 60 Subaru engines without any problems.

You are right the round dowel on the back of the cam sprocket goes in that notch. Then turn the cams so the notch on the outer edge of the cam pulley lines up with 0 degrees, or straight up if thats more clear. On the crankshaft gear the key tooth should be pointing straight down and the pointy gear ears should have a notch that points up to the top of the oil pump.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/ Click the buy button on their site it lists all their major parts store carriers.

Please welcome my parents new ride to the Board. Its a 98 Outback Limited with 145K miles. Purchased cheap as the prior owner had already put 2 sets of headgaskets on it and didnt feel like paying for set #3. Ouch! My dad turned 50 yesterday so I am calling it his "Midlife Crisis car." Sure is fancy enough to be. This is their 2nd Subaru, the first was an 85 GL Wagon that had a crummy heater and smelled like gear oil. That one left a bad mark so I had to find a darn nice one to start the healing process. Hard to break em of the Toyota's that never seem to fail. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4265&sort=1&cat=500&page=1 It sure has pained me to put the first 75 miles on the rebuilt engine thusfar! It just purrs, when I can even hear it.

Any Legacy Outback with an Automatic is a 2.5. Regardless of if the headgaskets were done, having it inspected by a 3rd party would probably be best. Compression test, leakdown test(better), etc would be better than even knowing if the gasket was changed as they may not have had the heads surfaced which would make the gasket change moot. Another thing is to go test drive the car COLD in the morning. If the engine has piston slap issues this is when you are going to be able to tell. The worst case scenerio is that you end up with a car that eventually needs a rebuilt engine. www.ccrengines.com is a good place to shop for one.

Id sell the engine out of my 80 GL Wagon, 1600 just like yours. It was rebuilt around 75K ago and runs great. Id like $250 exchange for it. You pay shipping to me and I pay shipping to you. Use the pallet that I ship you yours on for return. If interested email me. Will include disty, carb, alt, etc...COMPLETE.

You really arent going to find much of anything thats OEM at Autozone, or any parts chain for that matter. NAPA and Checker/Advance are better bets but not alot better but I would say Autozone is about the worst bet of all of them. KYB makes alot of Subaru Shocks and Struts, NGK and Denso (Nippondenso) make alot of the electrical parts under the hood. If you want OEM parts like seals, disty caps/rotors, etc, NAPA sells a lot of Beck Arnley parts that are rebagged OEM parts.

Most Kum and Go's have the convenience store feeling of having a vending machine in the bathroom if thats what you are getting at. Otherwise its a pretty boring and typical quickie mart.

Same knuckles.

The engine won't care.

The Air cooled vanagon has the same amt of room as the water cooled one for the VW radiator and fan, just no upper mount. The lower radiator mount holes are there but they aren't threaded or anything. Ill install the lower brackets and then fab up something to hold the radiator in at the top. Im thinking Ill pull the dash on the van and put the front heater core in as well as the rear one. Heat is always a good thing.

Contact Mudrat79.

Swap intake manifolds such that you keep the 91 intake and you'd be fine.

Exactly true and I agree but FujiBond is non-anaerobic as well, so I still can't see the justification for the $25 tube. I will be looking into the stuff you use at UAA for sure.

I never said they are the same either. I know of at least 3 dealers that don't use Fujibond and instead use Ultragrey. I haven't asked if its a cost thing or if they find it inferior. The fact that they could get Ultragrey at wholesale price and Fuji at dealer cost makes me wonder why the general public should consider it if they don't use it. I will say this. Its alot harder to remove the stuff from block surfaces than the Orange silicone or ultragrey are. I don't think its any indication of quality difference though. I think the usability of a product like this should be measured both in cost, ease of use and ease of cleaning and later use.

Dealer parts book just calls it "Connector, PCV" with PN 427337050.

Main bearings: Sure anything is possible but these engines last 300K when properly rebuilt. While you have the case apart do everything including rings, rod bearings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, valve cover gaskets, and OEM head gaskets.