ShawnW

Is your harness OBD2? If so you can plug a higher end scanner or the ELM SCAN tool in and tell the engine temp off the computer sensor. Check for leaks everywhere for sure on a Vanagon. The places I see them leaking the most are the rear heater and the bleeder screw on the top of the radiator. Otherwise just typical hose connections leaking.

Honestly, with that trans if you have all 3 gears reliably-be happy.

Yes. Cyl 1 is passenger front. 5000 is pretty typical on a 3AT under full load. I wouldn't do that real often-that trans isn't really meant for that.

It doesn't have the AUX in the center console? Pretty easy to add to most models with a dealer part.

Unless its a turbo I use a tapered pin punch thru the hole on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Its threaded and about even with the dowel pin (1/2 way down). It will lock into the teeth of a flywheel or the bolt of an automatic flex plate bolt. I also have the Subaru Special Tool for holding the crank pulley but the punch is much faster than setting up the tool. That can be used on the turbo engines and any that don't have the flywheel or flexplate still attached.

I think the ea82 carb cars had that when they were new, I bet most are broken and gone by now. Would probably be pretty easy to retrofit into an ea81.

The cheapest I ever am for A/C is $99, that's EVAC, replace O rings, pull vac and verify no leak, recharge. Just the Freon itself is $20-25 and the oil another 3-4. I would be skeptical of anybody that is a professional shop doing it for less than the $100.

I am a BG Retailer and I don't push it that often. I include it as a part of the 15 and 30K services only. My dealer did the same. Every 3K is greedy to me.

Above I was asked why I wouldn't just change the trans bearings. The shop is pretty busy at the moment and it would be a lot quicker to just test out the trans from a car I parted out than to take the one out, tear it down, order all the stuff, and put it back in. I can have the other one installed in a couple easy hours and not tie up the lift long. I also don't like doing the input shaft bearing on a trans that I don't know how long its been bad. Many times I have seen the metal distorted on the case and that basically means the trans case is going to be scrap. I really appreciate the comments and advice. I think I will try the Impreza trans now. Might even be able to get my bore scope in the dipstick hole and read the numbering off the ring gear.

That's neat they had a cooler air duct attachment on those too. Never seen that on a US market car.

A bonus would be having the outlets be available as stock or EFI rated hose size for the fuel pump. And if they were all EFI baffled so people could skip having to add or have a surge tank for EJ swapped cars.

I still have a few setups laying around, just carbs and intakes/blue air cleaners. They are Jerry DeMoss's but being stored in my Attic at the moment with no plans for use at the moment either.

If I remember correctly it requires moving to the caliper, caliper bracket and brake rotor from an 83-87 Brat/Hatch/Wagon/Sedan or Coupe of the EA81 bodystyle. Should be a bolt in affair.

Yes.

If you can find a nice gently used one that is a few years old you might get an not Chinese made one too. Usually better. The Porter Cable or Bosch ones are my personal preference.

And by all means watch the weather and be patient with it. Sometimes waiting 2-3 days can mean the temp goes up for 4-5 days in a row here and in the winter I see 70 degrees quite often. I think Portland is kindof similar to Denver on that sort of thing.

I certainly don't see it as a required item but nice to have for sure. The rear disc brakes are certainly less braking than the fronts-still smaller than the fronts, etc. It might be more of an issue on one with 80-82 brakes on an EA71/81 car but otherwise I dont see it being something you can lock the rear without locking the front on.

Correct. Only the Auto trans stubs are removable externally. I would probably take the inner DOJ cups off each and see if the splines on the CV shafts are compatible. But usually the axles will just work as is even with a little visual difference. Would help to post a photo of the outers so I can see.

Which wheel?

Technically in the tank and I don't mess with it unless the fuel pump fails.

Check the rubber at the steering u joint.

When they are this new its 1 sensor that does both.

I usually beat the Ebay $320 price on those kits if people call my shop. Office open 2-6 mountain time. Same for any other Redline stuff if I can help USMB guys out I do.

Most places, the muffler is for being legal on the street-not emissions but if there is a safety check involved then you might run into that. Old cats-if they work whats the worry?

Let me know next time you go to the junkyard I might tag along. Nice collection!