ShawnW

Is it leaking from a flimsy metal plate with 2 10MM headed bolts on it? If so its your rear main seal thats leaking. BTW get rid of the plate its worthless unless you like collecting gravel in your bellhousing.

Just checked, not in the USMB user list.

I like this idea. If my turbo wagon is operational I will try to attend.

I have the jig in my posession to make more of them but I havent had the resources (bender) to do it. Might be able to now that I am in Denver where theres more welding die suppliers.

Just an FYI: The Ej22 OEM gasket uses similar material to ea81/ea82 gaskets. You only move to a metal layered gasket at the ej25 engines. Irony is, the ej25 is known for head gasket failure and the ej22 is not. Im not convinced that the EA engines need anything fancy for Headgaskets. Just an OEM gasket and spray it with copper to fill in imperfections. If you are having repeat problems it may be the block or heads are warped (heads likely).

Engine is from CCR. Don't worry CCR doesn't normally paint the valve covers on EJ series motors. That repulsive Red color is of my doing. It added 12.5 Horsepower too. VROOM!

Either one works for me, I like the Red Rocks park for meets.

Love the video clips and pictures. Im not terribly far from Moab so when my wagon is ready to roll (if ever LOL) I will have to head out there.

Warning to young and old that are offended by profanity the Adam Sandler song comes from an album that requires you to be 17 or older to purchase it. Personally, Love the video and own the album.

Ill go overnight it to you and trust you to pay me if that helps. An ea82 one won't work but you can go with one from 82-87 brats and 83-89 GL hatch, 82-84 GL Wagons as well.

I have a good disty that I pulled from an 86 brat in the rust belt prior to junking it. The Brat ran fantastic and this disty is interchangable with yours. Id take 20 for the disty plus shipping.

Are the skirts of your pistons scratched up badly? If not I would say go with your block.

Old VW engine now on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7942812961&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

Can you take a picture of the chip?

The 3 are OK and the 1 crack is going to make that head junk. You should peen the crack shut at a minimum. The intake stud would come out but hopefully its in the junk head. Just go find a good used head for that side and continue with your rebuild.

No tickets with this one Tim.

Rings won't cause coolant loss. A cracked block would but it would be obvious when you took it apart, especially if you split the case halves. Are the copper gaskets or piston rings on the gaskets noticeably thinner or thicker than OEM gaskets?

Filler tube is what it means, it is the big hose that runs from the fuel filler hole into the gas tank. Not sure what the two way valve is but I haven't seen or heard of one going bad YET.

Still have yet to be burned and a ton of you have dealt with me over the years. Thanks!

Theres no way you are going to have any piece of mind running around with that transmission if you JB Weld it. Im sorry but if are worrying about your new wife not appreciating the fact that you have a hole in your transmission then you have a bigger hole to patch than the tranny. This isn't meant to be harsh sorry if it comes across that way.

Don't worry about it. Drain the system like you are doing a drain and fill, put the heater in and put the coolant in. Idle the engine until the fans come on and drive as usual.

Syncros rarely go bad. If youre not meshing nicely try running 1 qt of Rislone instead of the gear oil for around 3000 miles and then put in synthetic gear oil.

Not a terrific day for progress but some all the same. The wiring seems to be a problem as the machine doesnt fire or pump up the fuel pump. Did however get the cooling system pipes thru the air duct today, after trying off and on for the past few days. Damn its a pita to put pipe thru that gap.

I wasn't holding out on you. Just started thursday at 1:00.

Not going to modify the oil pan, just going to be aware of its location when driving on uneven terrain and just see how it goes dent wise as I drive it and modify if I really have to. The engine is so accessible I would be tempted to throw a spare oil pan into the car for that really rainy day and just nurse it back home if the worst ever happens. The later model parts being used thusfar are the OEM Vanagon radiator, overflow bottle and maybe the heater core if it seems reasonably easy to retrofit and pull from the junkyard machine I just found today. Going to use Home Depot 1.25" copper house pipe to go from the front to the rear and possibly similar solution for the heater core by running smaller copper pipe front to rear there too. One comment I will make is the Kennedy parts have been outstanding. I am incredibly impressed with the exhaust header quality and design as well as the engine crossmember. I think it would be nearly impossible to do the conversion in a timely manner without their wiring diagram and its $20 well spent for the blueprint and instructions. Today's biggest obsticle overcome was making the rear engine wall allow for the air intake hose to come out of the throttlebody as the Air cooled engine has a different rear wall than the water cooled. Actually chopped a portion of the wall out in order to overcome this. Would only have been easier to do with the engine out but it really looked like everything was just going to bolt in and work. Its definately a learning process doing this on an Air cooled one. Tomorrow it may get its first attempt at a crank over. That will be something to grin about.