ShawnW

I assume the camera is on/with you the whole time. If so it doesn't seem like you were that much further up than you were away in many points of the video. Loss of signal, or maybe the angle of the antenna system became too weak at that altitude and distance from your vantage point? All very impressive and the cost you describe is really amazing drop in cost over the years. A very neat project!

I share shop space with the builder of the FW Enterprises axles and have just seen enough junk come thru that I won't use anything else. He doesn't slap his stuff together like the other stuff I have seen. And I like that its a little guy being supported instead of some huge corporation with its facilities overseas.

Which is kindof what I was worried about too. If I am going to put a 2.5 bottom end in and 2.5 head gaskets in and lose what I had in the 2.2 with higher gears it might not be worth it.

If the problem didn't move, then what is the compression for that cylinder and did you ohm the wires from the coil pack to the computer to verify perfect signal, power, ground, etc?

Crank walking forward and back?

Surprised they allow that as I think here we can't have events in other states as it takes away from the home states program. Ive heard of desire for events in Wyoming here blocked and events in Idaho wanted by Utah rally group that couldn't happen.

My 95 Outback has the TY752VAAAA trans with 4.11 gears and I have a spare trans lying around that is from a 98 Impreza, TY752VA5AA and 3.90 ratio. I am thinking about putting a Frankenmotor together as the original engine has a thrust bearing play problem, and the input shaft bearings on the trans are toast too so was going to put it together. The car is pretty decent right now in the power and gas mileage department. What would you expect would change with these changes? Still fun but a gas saver with the gears or just not worth losing the 4.11?

That looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing this.

Very easy. Remove the crank pulley, pull the seal, push the new seal in and put the pulley back on.

$24 shipped Priority mail if you want mine or I could send it FedEx Ground for less. I have an extra from my 2001 Outback parts car.

I know till at least 2009 the Legacy and Outback are 5x100. The bolt pattern on the cars you mentioned are the same but the brakes on the 98 might be bigger and kept you from putting a 14" wheel from the 1990 on the 98 is all I can think of.

My moms 2006 Outback does this and it started after I replaced all of her wheel bearings. I found a sensor I had cracked and replaced that and had the reflash done. It got a little better but still haven't gotten to the bottom of it.

The back wall to the top of the chrome trim is about 34" high. The front edge of the bed closest to the seats is 51" but it appears the bed tapers back a little as it goes to the tailgate so keep that in mind. The wheel wells are 9" tall. ITs about 15" from the front edge of the bed to the front edge of the wheel well. Measurements are from an 84 Turbo Brat. Don't forget about the Jump Seats-they would interfere with some of this if you have them.

I too want one. I want a used one even. Its stupid that we don't get all the offerings here.

Yes. And sitting, oil and coolant changes and age are much more of a factor than the miles for it too. Put the $1 bottle of Cooling system conditioner in and hope that it makes it to the 105K timing belt interval for Head Gasket Replacement and save up for the job.

When you cold start it are you depressing the gas once before cranking?

Yes, but did she want the Brat or the Brat behind the wheel?

Is it rubbing our routed the wrong way? The old 80's Subaru cars you could route the cable on the steering linkage and have it rub thru very quickly. I think the cable or the hill holder are suspect here.

Don't use brake cleaner on a MAF. Use mass air flow meter cleaner. Its specific and available at parts stores. Not as easy to find but its around. My OReilly store has it here for sure and Napa keeps it in the back.

I often would agree with you but if you could sell it and make money and do the project again, even better the 2nd time around, why not! Cash is king to me. If its a vehicle I would have a lot of trouble replacing that is of course a different story but its always an option.

I think you could push some of that back out with the panels in the bed being removed maybe?

Yes, that shows the bolt in style and you must have the press in ones. Be happy I think once you replace that bearing you won't ever again. I always use NTN or KOYO brand ones if I can get them. I believe they are are the OEM. There are 3 seals btw, 2 inners and 1 outer. I get a "kit" for about $75.

Certainly could wedge a pop can but a plastic cup or something from a Fast Food place isn't going to work.

The driveshaft shouldn't be any big deal for a reputable driveline specialist. Head porting and such I would put the heads in a box and ship them somewhere like Delta Camshaft if they do porting or Jerry DeMoss is a user here you could message. At a minimum I would strip the body of all the trim and bits myself and then take it to a bodyshop. Ask around at parts stores you might find a guy at a counter that knows a shop like you are looking for locally. The CV axles you can order thru my shop if you want FW enterprises axles.