ShawnW

I always like reading his posts here, looking forward to meeting him someday at a meet.

Well that would explain why the Turbo Brat didnt have it (no cruise) and the 83 Wagon doesnt have it (different cruise system). Thanks everybody!

My 83 Turbowagon has cruise control with a metal folgers can like thing up on the upper left side of the firewall and seems vac operated. The 84 Parts wagon has a cable driven thing. Whats better and whats the difference? Can I switch between these two systems? Im also concerned with using the cruise on the car now that I have made it a 5spd. I have been told that cruise is transmission specific. Im wondering how I could make it work easier with one of these two systems. It seems to me in my gut feeling that the cable driven system would be easier to make work with a trans swapped car but I don't know why my brain thinks this.

This 84 TurboWagon I am parting out and getting the fuel/intake stuff off of has a weird item on the passenger side of the engine. Its bolted to the frame rail, sits underneith the frame rail itself and seems to have 2 major lines going to it. Its a can made of plastic I believe. Anybody know what it is? Turbo brat I parted out before and my turbo wagon do not have this item. 2 10mm headed bolts secure it to the framerail.

You can however weld in the center bearing and use the 2 piece driveshaft from an ea82 car. If its not welded dead on center to the car its going to wobble though.

Just went thru this. There is no driveshaft from any ea81 car that is the right length. The 5spd trans is SHORTER and by around 9 inches. I was amazed that they added diff lock, and an additional gear and managed to make it smaller. I will take some measurements tomorrow if you want. To really get an accurate measurement install the trans and then stick the ea81 driveshaft into the tail of the 5spd. Then measure from the end to the front of the diff. Remember that trans is going to require custom axles for the front cuz they are 25 spline stubs. You could split the case and switch stubs but to date I know of nobody that has actually done that. I just got axles (on order in mail right now actually) from cvaxles.com. $105 plus shipping each. My driveshaft lenghtening with 2 grease zerk u joints replaced was 183 bucks.

You need a rather rare adapter hub or to have somebody make you one. Do a search for hub adapter and you might come up with some hits. The adapter you need is not XT specific but I could be wrong. Its just specific to the 85-94 Subaru's with the engine like your XT has (ea82).

2nd vote for front axles.

Check out this post for possible donor cars for rear diffs that are going to be somewhat easy to find. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11397&highlight=wrx+gear+ratio

Why I love my Subaru. Nobody else wants it or anything else in it except the floormats. Floormat manufacturer leads anyone?

Got you guys on a technicality on this one but am not the Dr RX around here. Im having enough trouble getting everything figured out on my 83 Wagon 88 RX tranny install. Heres my "smartass" answer: RX is their Rally Cross edition Subaru. 85 was not the first "RX" but it was the beginning of their import to the USA. There is an 83/84 type RX they sold in Australia in very limited production that has a dual carb setup and decals that are special. Not sure about the trans if its special or not, etc. For me its the addition of sport items such as special trans, swaybars, engine, that are not found on other Subaru models.

I owned these when I had my 86 hatchback. I miss them a great deal. They were full rubber. I had them stolen out of my car (I didnt used to lock it so somebody just took the mats). Floormat picture

Copying thread over to newgen this would be helpful to those people.

Copying thread over to newgen this would be helpful to those people.

I agree with Danbob i used to put 2 bikes into a GL wagon and a Forester is bigger than that. I had to lay them on their side but it worked.

The off topic forum is closed and the USMB is for Subaru topics only. I have closed(rather than deleted) the topic only because people put time into the replies. In the future off topic items will be deleted.

I found the rear to be much harder than the front personally. It also seemed to be increasingly difficult on my wagon compared to helping Mick do one a long time ago....kindof suspect it may be because my torsion bar was adjusted all the way up. If yours is adjusted all the way up back it down before starting. I think it takes up some of the slack in the rear end parts and makes things not want to line up without coaxing but I can't prove it. (I also did the lift kit install with no engine in the car so that might have something to do with it.) Don't do it if you don't have another vehicle to drive to town to get parts, tools, etc. An extra set of eyes was very helpful when doing the rear shocks on my wagon too. Consider buying new struts and shocks if you haven't already...the lift kit install basically makes both of these replacments hardly any more work.

Theres a cushion rubber part and a lot of bushings in there. Has the bolt that supports the bracket to the trans tunnel come loose?

Go find the Sub Club website. You can get a bumpersticker and register your Brat's success.

Nobody is changing your Ezboard links, they just don't work. I can tell that the posts have not been edited by anybody. We aren't THAT good. If people want to go use the Subaru Alliance forum for OT stuff we aren't in any way trying to stop them.

Post copied from New gen. A very small # of Justy and early model type tools on the page.

On the older models there is a 2 wire plug that runs to the ignition switch for the key chimer noise, so your ignition switch suspect isnt a bad idea here.

Yep, learned that one from an 86 Hatch I used to be privilaged to own.

Pretty sure they were a dealer option.

Check the ground wire that should be secured to the front of the car and the top edge of the radiator.