ShawnW

DenCol in Denver should have it. They are at I70 and Washington, the bright yellow buildings on the corner.

The wiring is very similar to the naturally asperated Ej22. Less than 5 wires if I remember correctly. Honestly, I would just put an Ej22 in it. Lots of issues to solve like fuel delivery (pump and lines), engine crossmember notching, and such to do either way but running the turbo engine with the little EA71 style radiator might be pushing it.

I don't think the cams are going to be hard to figure out, just a matter of figuring out who can make them. Its just a copy of the front lobes. Isn't this going to shake like crazy and make the whole design of the boxer engine a moot point? Getting the injectors to work is probably a matter of the cam and crank sprockets or maybe running a distributor with a rotor that points to both plug wires at once.

Use the ea82 rack, the ej lines and be done. Last one I did was a simple bend of a line and a little longer rubber hose and it was done. The old 90-99 pumps might be easier and they have a reseal/rebuild kit available.

Sometimes it takes a cheap one to make an awesome one. If you buy an expensive one you might not have the cash to make it awesome too. And better still, some of the cheap ones are cheap for a stupid reason. My favorite is the plug wires backwards one I bought. They changed plugs and wires, they put them on backwards and it backfired so they put the car up for sale. All you changed is the plugs and wires and you can't go back thru what you did?!?! I tried to fix it for them and walk away and they insisted on selling. I purchased, fixed, and drove away in 20 minutes.

Only want the answer from those that have heard of RetroRoo.

Doing my Masters of Business Administration program right now, could use a little information from you. How did you hear about RetroRoo?

If the last repair was done in the last 1 year or 12,000 miles its still covered.

I need some information for my graduate studies. I am working on getting my Masters of Business Administration degree and am doing a course project. I need to know which option you would most likely choose if you needed parts for your Subaru. You can also write in another choice by reply if you wish and we would love it if you commented if you want to as far as why you buy from the supplier you chose.

Nice job. I am confident that there are many people that have learned a lot from people on this forum without ever posting too. Look at your project and progress with only 13 posts here. Amazing. People that are shy with the keyboard, people that just read and read and never stop until they find the solution. I wish people would come out and post even just a hello and a photo of their car more often. PLEASE post photos when you can!

Thank you.

Does anybody know what the thread pitch and length of the stud is on the starter side of the EA to EJ adapter plate? I lost the one thru the upper starter hole. Just the pitch would be ok too.

Yep, speed sensor. Its on the back of the speedo head with a yellow/red and black wire.

A new crank is like 3-400 bucks, a used one cheaper but you have to machine it at around $150 depending on who does it and how many you bring them might be cheaper. But probably worth the savings if you need one.

Did you do stock NGK plugs "vpower"? Those seem to do the best MPG of any I run in old Subarus.

Hold the strut spring with one hand and spin the wheel+tire. You can usually feel the grittyness in the wheel with bad wheel bearings. If you don't feel it, drain the differential and look at the fluid color. If it looks old change it and road test.

Sorry I didn't call you back. I don't typically keep office hours during the day but will be soon. Tried to reach you back but you were already gone. Best to email. Spray a ton of penetrant on the bolt that retains the ball joint at the top. Its going to be rusted in good on most cars from out east.

I should do this writeup on our site. So many missed steps, details, and mistakes that could cause a problem on that one. For just scrapping out to get aluminum, this works.

I bet its just the wiring harness on one of the fan plug ins. I see that once a month.

What you are getting here is that people think its rude to ask a question that you can search for. I see both sides of it, every day. Again, relax and don't point fingers at each other. I think the electrical problem might have helped point the car toward the head gasket failure, if it was getting hot in town in traffic. Sounds like its time to do the cooling system repair and the electrical system diagnosis. Its not always a time thing, its how much load the car has put on it sometimes. Prolonged climbing, car working very hard, towing, etc. Two gentle hours could easily be obtained on some head gaskets. Others, like you said, don't even make it 5 minutes. Typical diagnosis at my shop: Verify factory head gasket and thermostat are on the car, pressure test to check for leaks, look for visual leaks or seeping from the past, look in radiator overflow bottle, check radiator cap pressure, road test again. Sometimes I do half an oil change to really verify. By half, I mean, I check for watery oil and the new oil doesn't go back into the engine until after the head gaskets are replaced. An Ej22 with 140K miles on it isn't usually prime for head gasket failure. Could be water pump gasket or something even.

They don't even have to pay to have it charged. Pay to have it evacuated and vacuum tested. From there its sealed, dry inside, and empty of all the old Freon. Many shops will do it for free if there's a significant amount of Freon in it. I don't but I do it for a very reasonable price in the first place.

I would consider them, just want to keep it classic and classy for now. Not a bunch of modified rigs and things. As much as I like those too. Ideally, old stock posters from a dealership that didn't throw them away. Example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Subaru-Brat-Automobile-Photo-Poster-/350505847784?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item519bc6cbe8#ht_2639wt_1185 But I would prefer they were even bigger than that.

I haven't ever seen a code that makes the car have a higher idle than before. The grey plug referenced above is a diagnostic plug for the HVAC system I believe. I have never used it, and worked as a Subaru dealer technician in the past. If your harness was modified by a company-they should have left the OBD2 plug in it. Its possible they left that plug in-and chopped the OBD2 plug by mistake. It would not be easy to add back in. It would be easier to modify another harness. But it would have to be a harness that works and matches that VIN number in every way, otherwise you would end up with a bunch of ghost codes, that you can detect and read, but no way to get rid of them. There is a VIN number stamped into the side of the engine block. Its very hard to read and if the shortblock was replaced at any time in the Subaru vehicles life it might not be there-or could be the wrong VIN. Feel free to call me about this if you need help, another harness modified, etc.

Welcome! Want to post details on your Vanagon?

You also apply a vacuum to verify that there are no leaks. I have so many pet peeves about the 134A. I am pretty do it yourselfer friendly but to me this one crossed the line. I have evacuated systems where people put 5 cans in, stop leak in, etc. I have found clutch problems as described above and people that were still just adding freon. The stuff IS bad for the environment and now everyone can go buy it and "fill it till the level is in the green". The cheap can top gauges are almost always completely inaccurate.