ShawnW

The car actually pulls to the side when it shifts, sort of like a brake caliper hanging. It actually kindof swerves!

Does anybody have or know of any old gen Subaru posters? Something bigger than a magazine ad-a true poster. Looking for decorations for my shop waiting room walls. I would love 80's stuff but even mid to early 90's is "ok".

Relax. Hes got 16,000+ posts here. He knows what he is talking about. He isn't picking on you. He sees new posters post this same sort of question on a weekly basis. You might not have filled it properly. That's it. Period. Just because you remove the air pockets from the radiator doesnt mean you have from the entire engine. When you fill these engines with coolant you fill it until the bleeder screw is full of coolant, close the screw, and then idle the car until the radiator fans cycle on and off. If you can't get them to do that, the car isn't ready for the road and will overheat. I use a "spill free funnel" and allow it to naturally draw coolant into the system while its idling. It will drink about half the funnel as it idles on some cars. Instead of bypassing the heater core, you could just put two T's in. Removing the heater is removing some of the cooling capacity of the car. Does the heater not produce heat when you had it hooked up? I haven't seen a "rusty" one be a big problem very often, and you could flush it out with a hose and a radiator flush kit. Its quite likely you have a bad head gasket. If you don't have an OEM or factory type thermostat and a proper pressure holding radiator cap those two need to be in perfect condition for a Subaru. I stock them here-and I don't stock a bunch of parts but those two I could probably sell 300 a year of. I find so many cheap aftermarket thermostats and leaking radiator caps on these cars its not even funny. On cars that already are "known" for head gasket issues.

I have never had one do this. I am thinking AWD clutchpack failure. Seems to mostly go away with the FWD fuse installed on the 4EAT transmission.

Its lame that they break windows to get the wheel lock key. Most are easy to get around.

Yes, it is! Ill be watching my place and shop closer now.

Is the tensioner resting against the tensioner bracket and not slid over? Might be taking that long to get the belt moving and the slack evened out?

Its a really tough market. If I can help somebody let me know. How do they ship a midpipe for $5?!?!

The long block/engine assembly will but you need to switch the intake manifold so that you don't have strange wiring/sensor problems.

Did you just roll over 30 or 60K mile interval?

Most of the time when a valve cover bolt on a Subaru is a PITA, this wrench makes it easier. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=633437&PartNo=RTBM10&group_id=675014&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

I bet most of it was caused by those rocker panel covers.

I have some aftermarket ones that I stock and like the quality of-they look OEM to me. I can ship them. $18.70 ea plus shipping- USPS flat rate Priority small box should work.

Reported it stolen too right? I know people that don't call the cops-I assume you would.

Drill it out and put inserts in it. Difficult but possible. Otherwise the case needs to be replaced.

Looks good! Have fun with it.

Why limit it to places that are open on Saturday? Many shops aren't open on Saturday because parts suppliers are closed and you get situations where they can't get the parts for your car until Monday.

You can mail in a donation if that is easier. RetroRoo 6300 E 88th Ave Suite 4 Henderson CO 80640 Put your USMB handle on a piece of paper so I give you donor status.

I have that on mine. I used the ej22 pump and lines down to the passenger side of the crossmember, then the ea81 rack and its hard lines and bracket that run across the crossmember. I think I had to have an end changed.

The SVX is about the best and most serviceable for the power. I have done it twice with the 3.3, twice with the EJ25SOHC, 5-8 times with the 2.2, and once with the Ej22 closed deck turbo engine and standalone. My favorite is the SVX, followed by the EJ25 SOHC. Both are plenty of power, sound awesome, and have a strong following by providers of conversion parts. There are all kinds of Stainless cooling lines and such you can install. Don't go the copper route like people used to do in years past. I did that and it was a disaster. The wiring harness on any of them is the hardest part and you already knew that. The Smallcar.com SVX diagram is excellent. I have used it with the obd1 style now about 15 times.

Your manifold is fine. The Weber "32/36 DGEV" with electric choke is best. The "computer" isnt going to know what hit it. Don't worry about it.

Cool post guys. In the old days I used to spend a lot of late nights working on this place. Now, so many things have become automated or easily sourced to other places like photo hosting and such. Most of the pages above were managed by TheSubaruJunkie who was a key moderator and technical helper from the very beginning.

Looks like I have some big shoes to fill. We bought the equipment from McBrat here at RetroRoo. I have always had good dealings from McBrat too.

Its a 50/50 on making it run different. Some of them create a vac leak, some juts make a leak between a sensor and a source where it doesn't change much other than it won't pull unburned raw fuel out of the canister or something.

Most likely, a vac line under the hood has come undone. The 1518 I believe is idle speed malfunction, and those 2 others are basically different takes on the same old canister purge or evap system problems. Look for thin lines going under the intake manifold that might be unplugged. Check for rear damage too, lots of people back into things and mess up the charcoal canister. Its in the rear passenger side under the back edge of the car.