ShawnW

Replace, and then carry spare serpentine belt and idler/tensioner and the H6 ought to be reliable. I would love to have one and I hate cramped engine compartments. I can do a plug change on one in an hour-its not that much harder than the 2.5 4 cam. The coilpacks come out easier than heated spark plug wires do sometimes.

Looks like you have a proper diagnosis to me. Put that one in and road test, then pressure check if its still bad.

Or use a spill free funnel and let the car idle until the thermostat opens, radiator fans cycle on and off and heat is coming out of the heater ducts when you turn the fan switch on. (otherwise idle it with the fan off or it takes an hour to cycle). Filling thru the upper does help but the funnel is the only sure shot way. Even using a vacuum filler doesn't work. I own one. I wish it worked better. Its absolutely the thermostat in this case though. I would bet on it.

I think they are identical, maybe a slight piston revision but nothing to worry about.

The last driveshaft I had made (5 speed trans means you need to lengthen the driveshaft) ran me $200 with U Joints. Then the $100 plus shipping for the kit from Bratsrus1 A little wiring for the reverse and lo lights. IMO worth it.

Ea82 Y pipe is going to work fine.

Sorry you didn't have your camera. Sounds like fun.

You have no spark at a spark plug wire itself? Pull wire at the spark plug end, ground a spark plug and have someone watch. Make sure you don't have spark 4 sure. You have no fuel coming out of the line from the fuel filter? Does it backfire or anything?

I doubt he would ever do that. Lots of little tricks of the trade that he doesn't want to share I imagine. Ill ask though.

Looks pretty good!

My best price is with the seal too. Just seeing it as a Tama like GD indicated-not a Stant branded one yet. Im digging though. RockAuto is tough but not impossible to beat.

The differential lock that most Subaru owners think of is on the FT4wd cars from the late 80's. It locks the center differential to make it more like a true 4wd. Your car should be pretty unstoppable as is-that recipe is pretty solid.

No sealant is necessary. There's not mickey mouse gaskets thats the EA82 and ER27 engines. I would remove the crank pulley to make it easier to see since you haven't done it before. Torque it to 47-54 lbs when you reinstall it. The pumps are hard to remove sometimes. I leave the oil filter on and use it as a handle to wiggle the pump off the block.

Its the vehicle more than the engine that makes a difference. Are you putting an ea81 engine in a car that had an ea82 originally?

An air hammer works a lot better than a press if you have access to one. Gotta be a nice on though, a 2-3 series SnapOn or Mac for example. Not a cheapie like you get in those air tool kits with 3 tools and such at parts stores. Going to skip the e-brake?

Thanks guys. I knew most of what Josh said but its nice to have a reminder. I have a Miller with a bottle as he described. Been getting better with it and the practice sure helps. Im not sure I am going to do the EZ30 anymore. As awesome as it is I think I will have almost as much fun with a frankenmotor build. Might put the 3.0 in a Vanagon. Gotta tear the engine down and see what is wrong with it before I decide. If it needs a full rebuild I might just have to sell it to a customer rebuilt instead of spending that kind of cash on my car.

Working on this. $15.09 is the lowest I can source so far.

I can source KYB's thru my shop and ship them. My supplier has them in stock so no waiting 1-4 days from the warehouse like the justsuspension site. Most likely I can beat the justsuspension.com pricing. Not sure I can beat their shipping though.

The positive battery terminal is sold separately and is the most common problem. After that I usually get a used part from the junkyard for the cables themselves. They charge $2-3 for a battery cable at the yard next to my shop. I would rather have used OEM than New aftermarket in this case-every time.

I do the ball joint method in my shop. It doesn't affect the alignment and our cars aren't usually real rusted here. If the side one doesn't come out the castle nut usually will. I share shop space with MWE so I do a lot of axles-average about 6-10 minutes with paperwork. Theres no reason to own a pickle fork for Subaru work though. A large prybar works great.

Gotta say thanks for the FB weekly photo updates and the photos here. Really enjoy seeing not so Flat Stanley in his adventures.

I have used this logic in the past and it hasn't burned me yet. The chassis type (Impreza/Forester or Legacy/Baja/Outback is the back half of the shaft. The transmission is the front half. Most of these are 2 piece with a flange you can unbolt in the middle. The Ea82/Loyale series are just slightly different. In a pinch they might work but long term isn't good. I have these in stock if you just need a part of a shaft and can't find one local.

Nice Job Mick! Looks great.

Your tires don't rub on the inside of the wheel wells with a 29" with an EA81 body? I would like to see a photo please. On my 83 I have the crossbred performance kit installed. With impreza struts it sits higher than stock ea81 struts. I also have the EJ CV axle end which helps with the axle angle a lot. It does about 10 degrees more range of motion than the ea81 axle did. I think if I can figure out a control arm replacement, I can run as much tire as anybody with a lift-without a body lift on the front of the car. Handling should be better but even better is the modern wheel bearings, brakes, and axles that can handle the EJ22 or more. I have built and driven a lot of lifted rigs and I wouldn't do another one with solely a body lift. They look kindof cool but I think that's where it ends for me.

Anybody have advice and photos on doing it? I am thinking of putting an EZ30 in my 83 Wagon but its pretty wide. Also have a customer with a 78 Wagon with an ej22 installed that has a section cut out of and it worries me a little for crash safety.