ShawnW

Ive always used the headlights as the key. If the headlights match in shape the entire front end will swap with no mods. And with a little work, you can do almost anything like said 93-01.

Ive got one with 190K on it from an Impreza L from 1998 model year. $10 plus whatever speed of shipping you want. Call 720-440-1662

Agreed. As simple as pulling a valve cover and looking at how clean/dirty it is inside there usually. If it doesn't wipe clean with a rag its probably missed a few oil changes. Sometimes that can be reversed with a flush but usually its damage done.

Thanks to the internet, we have a bit of a mess in the Subaru world. I would like to give my take on it. Im pretty open minded but when someone comes to me and says that their Subaru steps out, or "ghost walks" I have ask about 10 minutes worth of questions before I am even willing to road test the car with them. The true symptom is, the car, on ice or gravel surfaces, will step out from the rear and try to fishtail. It only seems to happen on 2005-2008 model Subaru Outbacks and the ones I have seen in my shop are mostly the earlier of that being 2005-2006. It needs to be said that the suspension and steering on these cars is unlike many previous models. Its sensitive, its drive by wire, its ABS is really sensitive, and the weight on the rear wheels is not being supported by long struts like previous models. These cars handle much differently than the older generation Outbacks. They are quieter, smoother, and more Buick like than previous models. But the fact is, the 4EAT transmission is usually a factor. And this one has a slightly different situation in the rear when it comes to Duty Solenoid C and such. Its not in the tailhousing like the old ones. The ones I see that exhibit the problem usually have a thin gearstack measurement in the tailhousing. When I get a moment I will have to pull up the spec on it but its usually about 1/2 a clutch off! Thats a great deal. The 3 that I have fixed that actually had the ghostwalking and weren't just old, typical AWD system no no's like mismatched or worn out tires, blown rear right strut and brand new left, or previous known driving of thousands of miles with the spare tire on it. Im really tired of seeing people just go on and on about how Subaru should fix this. Give it up. Its not going to happen. Most of these are way out of powertrain warranty, but more than that, good luck proving that you or a previous owner didn't cause the problem or that some normal wear and tear item isn't the problem. Instead, put the FWD fuse in like the good old days and see if the problem is made worse. See if you can drive on ICE like any normal FWD car can. If you can, move on to fixing the rear. If you can't-it could be the driver! Like I said, these cars are more sensitive. Trying to run cheap tires on this car is a disaster. Its not a crime to run snow tires on this car in the winter. Trying to be macho and say you are gods gift to driving and that you don't need them is ridiculous. I fixed one of these cars on a bet and the customer bought me new tires for my car after I put clutch packs in hers. She said she could drive on bald tires on Ice because it was a Subaru. Maybe an old one. The clutch packs were bad, but putting the tires from my wifes 06 on it truly solved the majority of the problems. Its an improvement. It really is. Its not that the cars have gotten worse. They have improved but to get the full potential of the car you have to invest a little in it. When you do, it pays off. If yours does have "IT" I recommend: Make sure you aren't expecting too much of the car first. Thinking you can drive 60 on black ice isn't an expectation. Anyway, First try the clutch packs. Diagnose with the fuse a little. Go from there to repair. Its a few hours and the trans doesn't have to come out. Remove the driveshaft, remove the tailhousing, and measure the combination of the clutches and steels while in the housing. Compare to spec for that year. Order a gasket, clutches, and re install. Second, consider the tires. Are they all season? Were they less than 70 bucks each?!? Try quality. Third, check the rear struts. If they have 100K or more on them, they are suspect. KYB Excel are almost identical in every way to the factory ones. No alignment necessary. Ride quality will really improve and if it doesn't solve the problem at least you got your ride back to being responsive. Anything beyond this, it could be the driver. Try having someone else drive it and see if the "problem" is still there.

Too bad its digital dash. I wonder how many of us will be watching the auction.

Its a C Clip with tabs on the inside edge of the C. Not real hard to find at a junkyard.

Yes, those holes are made to accept a tap. M8x1.25 works perfectly.

Ive done it to vehicles for customers before here twice, both have around 11-15,000 miles with no side effects. One just the fuse, one I put a switch in. In the past I did it at other jobs too but I didn't track whether those are having any issues. I don't see how it would cause any problems. I rebuild them here, about 6-10 per year. Its a pretty quick series of electrical tests to verify the solenoids in the trans are good for this and most of the other problems you can encounter with a 4eat. And frankly, who cares if it did "ruin" the trans by putting the fuse in. Its already in need of repairs anyway right?

Why not wait until next Winter to see how your finances are then? Its not like it doesn't drive in front wheel drive mode right?

Placing a number of miles on failure is rediculous. How its used and maintained is key and thats all. The diff is a sealed unit that takes regular 75W90. I use Extra S fluid from Subaru in all of them here. The clutch type is better for initial launching only IMO. Otherwise they are fairly similar.

Dare I say, the axle held onto the stubs during disassembly? They are supposed to have the male stub with roll pin like older GL's do. Take a photo of the side so I can see.

Last Ej25D I did as $1401.30 and thats about the most expensive engine to do the gaskets and timing components on. I won't install customer supplied parts without it being a friend or family member. Like said above, who is responsible when the part I didn't supply fails. Not cool. Its much easier to do business without attorneys involved.

First. I will award infraction points for any further slashing at each other in this thread. Second. There are a few things that could be wrong here. The pipe that goes to the solenoid could be plugged, missing, or not all the way into the aluminum it sits in. Third. Further diagnosis is needed. Find another dealer or Subaru specific shop to at a minimum diagnose the problem but hopefully also fix it. Further..... Does the AT Oil temp light flash when you start the car? Have you connected the car to a scanner to verify no trouble codes are present? Is the rear section of the driveshaft in the car? Yes I have seen this. How long has the AWD not worked? Has the height of the clutch pack been measured when assembled? Lastly, You might need to stop looking for a parts list and just get back to basics and diagnose it. One last thing. Please break up your text a little. Hit enter and make a separate paragraph when it is warranted to make it easier on the eyes of the readers.

If one has had the heads replaced and upgraded to roller rocker cams that would do it.

The old 2.2 has the spark plug wire enter thru the head itself, the newer one goes thru the valve cover first.

I have a Tacoma with an outside temp and compass display in the ceiling. Its a known problem where the resistors come off the circuit board. I tried soldering it but I am having no luck with it. Anybody want to give it a try? I mail it to you/you send me a quote to fix it or tell me its scrap? Thanks

Bore Scope would be the easiest way to "see" it. Then the grabber tool to find it. I bet draining the oil into a container will make it easier to see and grab. Do not drive the car until you have fished it out.

There is a kit from Subaru for the PS reseal. Around $40. If your dealer can't find it I can ship you one. Some people replace the bearing too. Thats easily ordered as a Nissan part 11924-W3420. For some reason Subaru doesn't offer the bearing. I would guess you have knocked one of the small vac lines off the sensors on the right strut tower or one of the ones on the air cleaner duct.

Blow it up!

Please do not post in this forum unless the parts or vehicle being bought or sold is "historic" in nature. Mostly 50's-70's parts, vehicles, and accessories are to be listed here.

These are shim on bucket. As stated, if you put the shims and buckets back in the same holes they were previously in-you shouldn't have changed anything. Maybe a cam cap isn't as tight as before. Did you torque them to spec correctly? I think its like 7 or 9 pounds, it isn't a lot.

That or a flatbed tow truck.

You have got to be kidding me. I hope I never work on a car that you have. That kind of logic is about as good as luck is. When in doubt, consult the forums or a Factory Service manual. 38?!?! I haven't built 10 percent of the ones that Emily has, and I have watched her build them. Hers, and mine, were all torqued by the book with no ill effects. I know-I used to work with her at CCR. I have a bachelors of science in Telecommunications (IT/Computers to most people), am earning my MBA, and was a dealer Master technician. I passed all the tests and I know what I am doing. Im also not against asking a question as I don't even begin to think I know it all. I too am running a Subaru specialty repair and parts shop here in Denver Colorado. Im not saying you aren't qualified but you scare me. Take a step back, slow down, and just type properly using punctuation. It makes your content look better. Today's mechanic is educated, and tomorrows will be even more. You don't need to be perfect here but at least give some effort.

Oh stop whining about it, I have a lot more gas to burn if I go.

Those photos are amazing, I love it. I can't wait to drive one. I also can't wait to drive the new 2012 Impreza especially with the CVT mounted to the 2.0 engine. I think it will be decent. Finally in Corolla territory for MPG. :L the comments on the thread about the boxer being hard to work on. His loss.