ShawnW

Your post isn't long its complete. And its typical. I see these leaking all the time. I recommend: 1. Fuji Bond Red. (dealer or I can ship you a tube-see site below) or 2. Rubber type gasket. Don't use paper or cork and don't use a sealant that isn't the red mentioned above. anerobic works well sometimes if you want to use that. 3.5 foot pounds is spec torque I believe that would be about 42 in pounds.

The belt itself might be tough but the idlers and bearings aren't intended to take on the elements directly like that in my opinion.

I love it. IMO its the best of both worlds. Impreza looking interior, GL looking exterior, and lots of refinements. Its what I am after in my 83.

You can also remove the negative battery terminal, place the key to the ignition on position, and put the battery terminal back on with it still at ign on to trick the alarm/keyless system.

Moving this to the historic forum, there is likely more interest in there.

Red Fuji from the dealer. Expensive but worth it.

Did you remove the inner tie rods as well? I see a lot of people replace the outers when the inner ones are shot.

In person, better than wildest expectations. I am going to add a few more coats of paint but of no flaw in build or the fabricators, mostly my method of unpacking scratched it a little. Will be installing next week.

Been quite a few years!

Going to move this over to the Older Gen forum so you can get an answer as to whether or not it will bolt in or not.

Im already married but I think its probably guys thinking its a better place to meet women than anywhere else on the web.

I think its also possible its a linkage or trans mount broken and the selector isn't really going into 2wd position, just that no mans land in between.

Most of the time they aren't much bigger its just the hydraulic unit and hoses that are bigger. Would want to compare directly (like in person) if possible to be sure.

PM me an offer. Still want the blue cargo cover?

I would pull the engine to do this surgery if you haven't installed an insert before. I would also practice on the old water pump before trying.

I worked in a dealership and it was pretty difficult for the counter reps to look things up for the older ones compared to todays cars. The systems have been changed from a paper or microfiche system to a computerized and some of the information got lost in translation. I feel very fortunate to have dealer parts catalogs and a wholesale account to order directly from my suppliers with the original numbers instead of waiting for the rep to find it. If you have trouble finding a part and a counter can't help you feel free to give me a try. A little shipping might be less than tax in some cases.

I have to order them from SJR as well. I made them in the past but its beyond my tooling at this time.

Thanks for the tip on Sketchup. Pretty fun in the first few minutes. I did Autocad in High School in 1993-1996. Back then it was R12 for Dos and R13 Windows. Was a really fun architecture class and was pretty rare to have in a High School classroom at the time. My drafts ended up being chosen to be drawn as the 1996 Student built house, which I did with R12. I am pretty sure I could still do it again today but I hope the software has improved some. (I know it has but not direct knowledge of it.) When I go back "home" I drive by this house. Its still the best one on the block which isn't saying much on its street but for a high school project it was cool.

Thanks for the clarification. Totally agree.

Welcome! I had a converted Vanagon until last year when I sold it. Stop by if you are down in Denver.

There is typically a silver tag affixed in the engine compartment on the GL models. The newer cars have a sticker under the hood or on the front radiator support, the older ones usually on the strut tower near the drier. It will typically tell you a dealer part number for the A/C belt, and charge amounts for the A/C system.

Fairtax4me: Did you read the original question? I can only assume you are complaining about 1-3-2-4's post which isn't that far from being on topic of the 97 2.2. As he indicated, possible valve collision instead of piston to valve collision. The ones I have seen have usually been piston to valve collision, but if the cam gear breaks, its anybody's guess after the rotating mass hurls around a little bit. This is clearly the right place for a debate on interference vs not. I have already indicated that the engine I removed from the 97 Legacy Brighton, less than 2 weeks ago, bent its valves after the timing belt broke.

This is a neat old thread, thanks for resurrecting it. I haven't heard from most of these guys in years.

Try a claybar kit instead of the rubbing compound. Im honestly not sure on the bottom, I think its paint with a ribbon of pinstripe above but I never looked that closely.

The harness plug for the Outback Alternator isn't round like the older Legacy one. I can ship you an alternator if it comes to that.