ShawnW

I think I have one that was a dealer return and never mounted, or I can source you a truly "new" part from Subaru.

Awesome! I haven't found the scoop yet.

The service manual calls for not removing that during rebuild. I have mixed feelings on it. Its real easy to ding it up removing it with a chisel which is about the only way I have found to get them out. And obviously you want to be able to clean it, flush back thru the screen, etc.

Ill put my knowledge of these engines up against almost anybody. 97 is interference 2.2. It doesn't matter what the head or valve cover look like to determine. Its the PISTON that matters. The cylinder head isn't any different than a 96. These engines (97) have a piston that looks like a 97-99 Quad Cam outback with the rounded square dent top. There isn't valve relief spacing like the old ones. (Oh, and the fact that my 97 Brighton had, again, bent valves on cyls 3 and 4.) I replaced the engine in this car with a rebuilt 94 Shortblock and 95 roller rocker heads and changed the front y pipe section. Should be good for another 298K now.

This is going to be fun!

Ordered a rear for mine! Can't wait to see it in person.

Im a bit overdue to show off my 83. Trying but the kid is due in June and trying to open a real shop here in the next month or two...could be financially irresponsible to leave but will try.

That wiring could be fixed with a nice day of patience, solder, heat gun and shrink tubing. Its not 100% necessary to replace the harness but it might be cheaper.

Donor badges for the last 3 donors added. If anybody didn't get theirs please let me know. I am having to do them manually these days due to crappy software. This thread has resulted in a few donations and they are truly appreciated. It wasn't the intention of the thread but its loud and clear that people are willing to help out around here and I can't say enough thanks for that. I am really amazed at the recent donations for the people that have less than 20-40 posts and are new around here. Really like to see new "faces" coming in. I think this is proof of the patience and helpful nature of people here to newbies. Lets keep that going. I know some of you get annoyed with people that don't search but try to grit your teeth for a second before snapping.

The CTS on the 84 Turbo is near the Thermostat housing if I am remembering it correctly. 2 prongs. The radiator fan switch is in the radiator.

Another vote for Jerry's kit. Im about ready to stock them in my shop.

Just repaired one here same year and model. Bent valves cyl 3 and 4.

Have you ruled out the A/C belt or compressor and its tensioner? Pull that belt and verify its quiet or not. You can also pull the timing belt back off and spin the idlers. If one makes more noise than the others, or you didn't replace them all, I highly recommend replacing all of them with the belt, then go from there. You can run the engine with the covers off, sometimes that will make it easier to see/hear the noise.

There should be a part number on the side in green lettering if they match go for it.

They sure did and an 81 would be a high percentage chance of that.

Pretty close to what I would do. Some corrections: The fuel level sending unit is accessed from the rear of the car not on the interior under the carpet like more modern Subaru's. The fuel filters for this car are very cheap so I would recommend replacing both of them and as suggested watch what comes out of the filtered line under the hood. It would probably be best to put a few gallons in and manually run the fuel pump by jumpering power to it.

Nice job and info. Going to get to the bottom of this one I am sure of it.

I prefer the Red Fujibond for that application.

I can ship you one Priority Mail/Fedex.

Yes they do. They they are very similar.

Or most Subaru's newer than 94.

Theres no fuel cut switch. The Main and Fuel relays are up in the upper dash behind where the ECM and TCM was on a brass bracket. One is square and brown with a matching color plug, the other is silver with a green plug. They are WAY up in the top of the dashboard on the driver side. When you cycle the key to ignition on, have somebody listen with you for the fuel pump buzzing and then shutting off after it builds pressure. Should run for about 3-4 seconds and the go away. Fuel pump is back behind/above the passenger seat. MOst of them are loud enough to hear alone too. I have seen 1 bad Fuel pump relay in my years of working on Subarus, and 15-20 Main relay failures, most of which were 97 or so model year for some reason.

Theres TONS of those cars up in your area. Gotta be a pull a part yard around with a harness you can get. Dare I say a huge majority of the USMB members are from your corner of the country even! Post a parts wanted thread? I wouldn't splice because some of these are shielded wire setups like coax with signals coming/going to the engine.

I could be misreading but I think you said you are missing 1 plug on the intake manifold harness that was the smaller of the 3. That one usually has mostly sensor grounds in it if I am remembering correctly. It would certainly explain all of the codes, in essence "ghost" codes as the sensitivity is too high (sorta). You really need an entire engine harness most likely the battery corrosion got into those connectors. Lots of patience, de-pinning the main harness side, cleaning with a brush and dielectric grease coating after, might also work.

Too nice to part out!