ShawnW

The ones that are here, and down there, are pretty active. Id say 3-4 of them. Tommy sure likes his Gen1 Brat down that way and is active here. Biffanyus I can't believe your user name wasn't already taken. (in 1998 for that matter).

Might be surprised how nice it would look with a WRB colored decal set instead. The ones that say Brat up the side or the ones on the bottoms of the doors. Check out this one: Only your WRB color to give the gold something to balance itself to. Maybe even better:

Doctors note from a fellow USMB member dated in advance?

Active donors is 78. Meaning their "subscription" is active. 2/3's of these are 5 and 10 dollar donors.

I love that section of that forum! Will be added after migration! As for pricing, we are at 60/month for hosting, 14.99/yr on domain registration, and 275/yr for VBulletin License. When we exceed bandwidth the pricing on the hosting goes up but not by a big amount like it was on the providers we had in the beginning. I am looking at Invision Power or "Ip BOard" to move to. Right now we have, as I type this, 83 users on the forums and this is probably off peak. I have seen as many as 636 according to the bottom of our VBulletin but that seems really high. Anyway, the packages on Ip Board require you to pick a number of users max online at a time. At 175 at a time its 119/month and it jumps another $200 to go to 375 at a time. While expensive, it is pretty much the top of the line 'home' for USMB, just a matter of is it worth it. Right now we risk a hack with the version we are on but because the 4.0 version is a piece of junk and the 3.7.4 is the last stable version according to what I was reading on the VBulletin forums, I haven't upgraded. Didn't seem worth the $275 and time spent upgrading just to have new problems and a still hackable board.

I have a 6 pin fuel pump connector with the fuel pump leads for this exact purpose. I didn't want sparks or to have to pull the pump or anything. 4 screws, connect to battery with alligator clips and run it straight thru the filter to a gas can.

Never seen an upper spring perch do that before! Wow.

It sounds like you didnt get the intake manifold and related plugs on the right rear of the engine plugged in all the way. Remove each one, and make sure it clicks when it plugs together. Theres a red plug, a grey plug, and 3 on the edge of the bell housing that would amount to this number and types of codes being there. And they definitely wouldn't clear if they are unplugged. If the CEL is blinking stop driving it, that usually means the car is misfiring and its very bad for the engine.

Its a thermal thing. On the highway the fluid expanded and began to leak. Its amazing how little is coming out when you spot a leak sometimes and an easy mistake. Run it thru all the gears, warm, and check it while its idling to see where the level is at. Drain some out if its overfilled. This unit likes a precise amount to be in it to work best and not leak, shift hard, etc.

In the coming months, I am looking at upgrading the forum software here. Unfortunately, the VBulletin Software is out of date, and the newer version has a lot of problems. This forum is growing. Not as fast as previous years but still pretty well. As many of you have experienced, the server and software have had a mind of their own in the past few months and have been more trouble than they are worth. I hate seeing any downtime but I know this is unavoidable. There are various directions I can go with this site but unfortunately, almost all of them are going to be more expensive than what is currently being utilized. In the past, me and "Shadow" have paid out of pocket for many things and have occasionally been reimbursed from the donation account but there just isn't the funding right now to move. If I had more personal funding right now I would just do it but I don't. I have never asked for money on this forum and don't intend to just yet but I would love to hear suggestions via email (shawnw@Ultimatesubaru.org). New Shirts are coming and this generates good funding for the board but with an upgrade I may not have time to be doing a server migration and upgrade along with shipping shirts. I want to continue the site being AD free. This is my top priority. I would like to get a more modern user base coming here if people want that. As awesome as the 80's Subaru's are, I think having some Impreza, WRX, SVX and XT/XT6 owners here more often would be of great benefit both to them and the rest of us. When you come here and don't find what you wanted, where do you go? Any suggestions, again, please reply or email me, especially ones that will generate donations to the site. Big/Small, like usual, I want to hear about it. I would also like to know what features of our current system you: 1. Want to keep. 2. Want to go away or improve. 3. Is social networking important to the forum users? (Facebook/Twitter, etc) This will affect how much the forum, data use and bandwidth, etc uses but if it gets people here and hanging out and enjoying the site thats the idea.

Welcome aboard! Sweet ride!

Thats a beautiful car, and that is coming from someone that doesn't even like that particular model!

Alternators can fail in both ways. They can fail to charge, and they can overcharge. You may have experienced the fail to charge but I bet not the overcharge. Its entirely possible you were overheating as well. Where did this replacement engine come from and how do you know it was good?

I must point out, that you would probably be doing the same thing if you were independently wealthy. I wouldn't mind blowing a part of my fortune this way.

Any update on this or do we know this person/car here?

I love the ones I have! BTW Let me know if you need more cores. Happy to send.

I think its a machining change but am not sure. Most I have seen with it had hydraulic lifters but I haven't taken the time recently to do a verification of that.

My buddy did the same thing you are trying to do and everything worked out fine.

Get a new one at the dealer 413967100. You will see yours is actually in pretty good condition.

In this photo it looks like you haven't slid the tensioner over and then bolted it down. There should be a gap between the tensioner bracket and the tensioner itself on the right side.

The center cover will work, the oil pan will as well. Remember to check oil level the bigger pan holds about 1/2 qt more.

OH! My bad. I have seen these in the paddock and no problems witnessed so far. The jack I suggested is WAY to heavy for toting to RallyX. Sorry its only good for the garage. Pumps fast with dual piston but not light enough.

The crank pulley bolt is a 22MM. Mentioned above is 5/8" and that isn't big enough. Be sure the key is pointed down when you remove the belt. I remove the cogged idler on the water pump. Then you can turn the shortblock over if you need to get the key back up on top and put the gear on. Then rotate back to the down position and put the timing belt back on. If the tip of the key got torn its possible the end of the crank snout got damaged as well. Verify this isn't the case before proceeding. If it is call me, I can try to get you a kit to fix the crank and key from a local shop here in Denver that makes them. You are going to have to compress the the tensioner. If its got a blue bearing and pivots(which is stock for this year), then you need to do so in a press, SLOWLY, over a 10 minute period put light pressure on. You can press it while its on the engine as well with a prybar but again, super slowly take over a minute to do its motion in this case. Finesse and patience required. Lots of people have done it too fast and pushed the oil past the seal. Later on this can cause the timing to jump, bend valves, etc. If in doubt put a new tensioner on. DO NOT compress this tensioner in a vise.

Was replacing one a week at the dealer. Very common.

If you drain it first not much is going to come out. If its just 4th gear, its either the linkage/bushings are shot, damage to the gear itself, or the rail slider in the trans is worn. With 220K miles all of these are possible. IT would be a good buy even if you paid a shop to replace the transmission most of the time. I like the 99 GT Wagon better but thats just looks, the ride, newer engine and newer creature comforts are worth it.