ShawnW

Lets not forget this code CAN be properly diagnosed. It requires skills and training that most dealer technicians don't have and many aren't very good at paying attention during dealer training on this. The big problem is the instructor at dealer factory training doesn't have defective vehicles to show off. They have the technicians look at properly working cars with a problem 'ghosted' on a dummy box. In other words they trick the computer into throwing bad numbers and have the tech pick the part in need of replacement based on those numbers. The fact is: 1. Many of these are "fixed" by replacing the: A. Front 02 sensor B. Catalytic converter Why does this work? Many codes like the 420, are cleared from memory after a repair and road tested. Many of these codes require "2 consecutive trips with the fault." So: Many times a simple clear of the codes would "fix" the problem, or in other words, it would have self reset itself. Many times the fix is as simple as premium fuel and a long highway road trip on mostly flat ground. Its amazing how good your car will run after 120 miles of highway driving for most people. It cleans carbon deposits, gets the catalyst really hot, cleans the tip of the sensors, spark plugs, injectors, etc. This code is also tripped by: Loose air filter box/box not clipped in on the bottom edge behind the throttle body. Any up or downstream air leaks can contribute to these numbers. Anywhere past the MAP/MAF sensor depending on vehicle and before the rear 02 sensor. Find a good shop with a high end scanner that will look at the numbers. A good tech (me included) can see o2 sensor activity, check for leaks, and visually inspect the car and be right about 90 percent of the time. A bad shop will replace both cats and both 02 sensors and send you looking for your credit card. Its possible all of these are bad too and the diagnostic is a waste of money but not very often. The Front 02, or "Bank 1 sensor 1" on most Subarus is typically in need of replacement every 105K miles on US model cars. This aids in fuel economy and prevents the catalysts from being damaged by overly rich mixtures. This is a wear item and frequently original on every car I see around here. People will change 4 platinum spark plugs at 8-18 dollars a plug but they won't do 1 sensor that is 100 bucks. The outcome is virtually identical in HP and MPG improvement but nobody replaces this sensor. On many Subaru's its actually easier to replace the 02 sensor than the 4 spark plugs. This code is one of the most difficult to diagnose properly. I used to hate these until I understood the system better. Now I hate EVAP codes that aren't gas cap leaks and even those can be simple.

Yes you could but why not roll the engine over and do it the "right" way? Yes yours are adjustable and not shim+bucket.

The big thing for me is will they stand behind it if they have a part fail-which in this case sounds promising. I have had to go with a supplier that is local and will for this reason and I am constantly working on customers vehicles and can't wait more than a few hours to get parts. I am happy to attempt to beat TIE's prices whenever possible for USMB people on a timing kit if somebody wants a quote. Am working on having the kits on my website with nice photos for quality comparison as well.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar996.htm Article above describes the methods and how smooth, etc it should be.

Lots of people like the "GO/NO GO" gauges but I don't think they are as accurate on this job. As stated, the slight drag place is much better. I do these any time the heads are off and have to be re-torqued if anybody else is wondering how often to do it. Try to maintain them at least every 105K miles which usually is about head gasket time on most I have seen in this age range.

I can get you one if it comes to it. I would do the O2 sensor while you are at it. The question above of mileage kindof made me laugh a little, if this is used as a mail/delivery vehicle, is probably not going to be a relevant number unless you have seen a drop and drive it the same route on a weekly basis, etc.

I am pretty sure the Forester is the tightest clearance to the fans and you do need to remove them to get a socket on the crank pulley bolt.

I really try to not buy their stuff when possible. If you have a Costco Membership, check out the Arcan jack they are selling. I bought it for $99 and its been amazing in the last 5 months I have had it so far. IT will jack a car high enough to pull a trans mission out on my transmission jack, something like 22".

Check car-part.com to see how much one costs. Shop time on r+r is around 7 hours with a new clutch being installed. Its a piece of cake on a lift, and not so bad on jack stands with a transmission jack.

It might but I think I would just get a little trailer instead for ease of loading and keeping the center of gravity down.

Yep, I agree. Thats where the Sure Shot bottle comes in. You can pressurize it with shop air.

Don't be afraid to do a search of the forums please. The Offroad FAQ thread in the OffRoad Forum is a great start to what you are after here.

You don't scrap the ea82 harness to do a swap on these usually you just either merge the harness or do a stand alone aftermarket setup.

Look into a Sure Shot and buying Brake cleaner by the 5 gallon pail if you are going thru it like that. Brake Clean 5 Gal bucket I saw the buckets at my local Autozone the other day.

I would clean the Air Flow Meter and use a spray cleaner meant for it. Parts stores do sell it but it can be hard to find. CRC sells a good one. If you just replaced an air filter and it was real dirty, and a little oily, you could have a blowby issue or clogged, dirty or aftermarket PCV valve installed that caused it to become very dirty.

I do agree with you. I do think the 2.2 swap is a good one but not for everyone. I have purchased 96-99 Outbacks that have had 3 or more sets of head gaskets installed. I speculate that at least half of the HG jobs done are not by the book, properly done, etc. I plan to sell and stock a conversion engine kit as a fully rebuilt Ej22 with the intake and necessary parts to install it thru my business alongside an EJ25. The 2.5 will be slightly cheaper than the 2.2 kit with intake manifold. Its just that much cheaper to rebuild and warranty an EJ22. The 2.2 swap has a couple drawbacks. 1. Power. 2. Torque. When passing, uphill, the 2.2 doesn't always have the umph to get you around a car on a 2 lane highway like the 2.5 does. 3. Availability. They are getting pretty scarce and when I do find them in the yard its common to find one with 2-300K miles on the old engine. Great for the previous owner but not confidence building to be taking out a 180K 2.5 quad cam engine and installing a 2.2 with at times double the miles. Its just not THAT great of an engine at that point in its life.

You are going to have to disconnect the rods+piston assemblies from the crankshaft at some point.

Next time the dealer tells you 5 days for something get on USMB and ask in the Subaru parts wanted section. Most of the time Priority mail would beat that by 3 days. I have at least 30 of them (used).

Pretty rare to see them fail but its possible. Estimate 250K miles before needing to consider it if you ask me. If you haven't already checked the back plate on the oil pump I would do that first along with cleaning the pressure relief valve on the pump as well while you are in there.

I only do it if I remove the drive shaft and put a plug in the back of the transmission.

Im not following you well here. I assume you know where the EJ25 stamp is so I am guessing you are looking for the VIN stamp area, which is on the left side of the block on the bellhousing it would be down closer to the axle and very hard to see in car. I could see him putting the shortblock in easily but not the whole longblock.

LOTS of them off the shelf at Autozone and Oreilly/Checker that I have put on that were no good brand new. Its like they aren't even testing them after a rebuild.

You are going to have some indicators if its bad enough. Brake pads that are worn on a side more than the other, torn boot on the axle, resistance while spinning the wheel with it off the ground, etc. Your diagnostic skills in person, even if you are pretty novice, are going to be better than us trying to guess here on a forum.

Anyone here want anything off the car? I don't want to be buying a car to save parts for everybody just to store them. They need to go out the door and be on your cars instead.

Dare I ask why you are replying when theres multiple choices posted?