ShawnW

Fit? Yes. Concealed, like under the floor line? No.

Wow that is terribly expensive. I would have fixed for 1/2 that.

I was using the kent moore one at the dealer and never had one it wouldn't remove. Its all in the size of the impact gun and air supplied to it as well though. I would bet a cheap impact, or anything less than a 25-35 gal compressor of typical CFM ratings, etc would not remove all of them.

Not going to make this one now and had truly considered it.

Im going to go get it next week after my 95 Legacy Sedan sells. Does somebody want the roll bar even though it isn't factory?

I would be the gas tank is rusted out.

If it has a filter its screwed onto the left side of the transmission above the oil pan. Its said to be a lifetime filter. I replace them a lot because dumb shops talk people into replacing them, with a filter that isn't made for transmissions. Lots of generic Napa, WIX and other oil filters threaded on. I can get you one for about $35 if you ever need it but you shouldn't. I often wonder if they think they are changing the OIL filter by replacing this one.

Yep, seen that quite a few times, unfortunately usually with the opposite results. Good save!

Why not just post the instructions? I think it was in tech tips (Subaru newsletter for technicians), as well as the New England Subaru newsletter.

Hopefully thats got it.

I am going to go look at this in person in the next few days but wanted you guys opinions. Im more of an early 80's guy and this is a little older than my expertise. My gut says its probably too far gone in the frame rail rust and the black paint is probably hiding more than anyone wants to admit but let me know opinions. I think its probably worth more parted out than as a vehicle. I believe its currently not running but that could be solved pretty easily. If you guys would like anything off it that you see on the photos please let me know via PM with an offer amount. (assuming you think it needs to be parted). https://picasaweb.google.com/yoshidamachine/1978SubaruBrat?authkey=Gv1sRgCMSU08SrrJKHsgE&feat=directlink#

It doesn't look too terrible and I bet those are standard size pistons so a mild bore at the machine shop should do it. Then order whatever piston size they bored it to.

My 83 with stock looking 2.2 swap passes. The 87 model year thing doesn't help you anymore like it did when skishop lived here. Now its 1981 and older are grandfathered. I should have gotten collector plates when I could but the window of opportunity wasn't ideal timing. It must have a cat, the gas cap can't leak, and it will have to be tested on the rollers the first time you test it. After that roadside is usually good. If it looks like you rigged a bunch of things, hoses not plugged in, charcoal canister blocked off, egr plate blocked off, etc, you will probably fail visual. Ill help you get thru it if you end up out here.

Pirate4x4 would probably be good too. Good luck on finding the rig!

Most of the rental companies buy the cars that aren't selling well from the dealers or manufacturers that are willing to let them go at wholesale prices. If you are expecting to find a car you like on a rental car test drive basis, think again. The two rentals that I have driven in the past 2 years that I actually liked after the test drive are not commonly found rental cars. 1. Nissan Sentra 2. Subaru Impreza Base hatchback. Number one was no surprise to me. Number 2, I ended up with a WRX but it did show me that I like the hatchback, good size, comfy, quiet, etc.

Why bother though, its not like its that much more work to split the case and the only additional expense if you don't want to do the bearings (which I would do) is a couple o rings and some silicone sealer.

I have access to a huge number of timing belt components now if you need a price quote on a kit let me know. Most ship same or next day and fit in a priority mail flat rate box for quick delivery.

Its very common for the dealer to want to replace both hoses. They see oil residue on them which is a sign of a leak nearby. The H6 cars seemed to go thru A/C hoses pretty often. 134A does leak more easily than R12 for some reason. I can order you the hoses with my dealer wholesale account. I would replace the o rings on all of them as well if they are not included with the hoses which they often are. You really should pull a vacuum on the system and verify there are no more leaks before trying to refill it even with system sealer. The sealer isn't good for the system and is even worse for A/C evac recycling machines that shops use. It is likely the noise you were hearing was the compressor trying to kick on, and then the pressure switch detecting that the system is low on freon and kicking back off promptly. This happens when you are on the edge of the fill amount until the leak seeps a little more out and then it just doesn't even try to come on anymore.

Is it possible you didn't get the o ring behind the oil pump seated correctly or it moved when you pressed the pump against the block? Or the screws on the back of the oil pump backed off? I loctite these but shouldn't make any noise unless they have backed off and are up against the crank surface or something bizarre.

What are the symptoms? Did someone drain the transmission and forget to refill it? While many here are going to say $4500 sounds like a lot of money, remember: R+R trans is 6.5 hours. (650 dollars average) Fluid is around $50 if the good factory fluid is used. Just a syncro or bearing, and there are MANY inside the case, is 30-50 and many times 95-125 each for the bigger parts. It adds up in a hurry. The Viscous unit (the most expensive part of what they are calling transfer case) runs 550-700 depending on year. Then the labor to rebuild the trans is usually 12-18 hours depending on how extensive you go. An estimate that high is not uncommon and honestly not surprising. The dealer has to play the better safe than sorry route and replace all the wear items in the case. On the other hand, have them put a used transmission in. I don't know what year your car is but usually one can be found on car-part.com from a local salvage yard for less than $1500, maybe even half that if its older than 2004 or so, and labor again, 650, puts the total at way under half the redone transmission. I personally don't think there are very many master certified techs that have passed the transmission exam so I would probably go with a low miles used one before paying double for one that might not be put together perfectly. Even if you do find one that is certified and good at them, they are often rushed by the service writer, manager, and more money making work orders. Thats assuming the dealer has all the factory required tools on hand (many don't know where all of them are)

Is it like a tapping noise? You might check with fellow dealer techs to see if theres a tech tips or bulletin on the tensioner bracket. It had a pin that the tensioner presses against that was wrong in some way, and would cause a strange noise on some engines.

Your new information is correct. For the LEGACY (NOT OUTBACK) they got the 2.2 phase 2, same motor as many Impreza cars that year. Sorry I didn't catch this sooner. Possible swaps for that engine are 2.5L SOHC. Requires switching the front y pipe section over (easy). I don't see the 2.2L in your car as any more reliable than a 2.5L SOHC. Its got all the negatives of the 2.5 except head gasket surface area, with less power.

Yours should have power locks. Its the last year of the door lock/unlock toggler in the door handle area. They get to be pretty worn out and stop working. The year later they changed it to separate the switch in the panel instead of the door handle area, I haven't looked into whether you could retrofit this style. Congrats on the new ride! Looks really similar to the 96 Auto One I just finished and sold but yours is better.

I just use a 17MM swivel head wrench and align the cams with the marks.

The engine you want is an ea81. These can be built to 100HP with some pretty basic old engine type modifications.