ShawnW

Yes its true.

I usually stock these but am currently out of them. I can get another one though. $45 plus shipping if you strike out elsewhere let me know. Phone is on my website.

A lot of machine shops don't cut the thrust surface unless you provide the bearings you are going to install or the manufacturers specs. As Naru has stated, take the bearings and the crank to the shop for sizing.

I have used them, they work just fine. I just dislike having to buy a new one of their bearings/kits when I do the next clutch on the car but its a minimal expense compared to a new transmission case.

I don't think its so much for aligning the cams as is it for removing the gears while the engine is still in the car to do cam seals. At least thats how I use the tool above.

Its gotta be shoes if its got a wheel cylinder on an 80's Subaru. They aren't that hard to find around here but I have to know what year, model, etc.

Will call in the morning.

The booster swap isn't too bad. I had to modify the gas pedal to move where the cable comes thru the firewall, and weld the end of the brake booster nut to another one. The cable has to be moved to the right because the bigger booster covers the throttle cable hole. I also had to bend the brake line that goes over the top edge of the booster and have flex lines made to go from the bottom of the master cylinder to the distribution block below the booster. All in all, I have now done it and could do the fix in under an hour but it fought me for over a day the first go around.

Its likely the radiator cap is defective. Have the dealer test and check it and top off the fluid. It may be worth it to pay for an STI cap, they seem to be more reliable.

Nice to see you here. Looks like another Colorado member to me!

Living room full of parts headed your way. Yes I have a small living room.

I have one from a 97 Impreza 2.2 MT that looks identical to that. $35 plus shipping.

If I remember correctly, your starter is mounted dead center on a 76DL. That means: Every trans you have chosen has the side starter, and a bell housing change is going to be necessary. Secondly, I don't know if your car has a 1400 or 1600 engine, I am not an expert on the 70's cars. If its a 1600, theres a "fat case bellhousing" you can find but its hard to locate. This is the only way to move the starter, and have a trans that can actually bolt to it. I dont know if a 1400 engine will work with this bellhousing. The XT6 tranny mentioned would be a full time 4wd 5 speed with center diff lock. Its not a dual range. The real way to do this is in my opinion, not worth it but its your car and time..... Find an 1981 GL Brat donor car and put the engine, trans, rear diff, etc in your car. The crossmember is different, the mounts are different, its a big project. For almost every one of these project ideas, you better have a welder, time, and money.

I don't think it normally makes a relay sound at all. The switch itself clicks into position but not a relay. Does the switch light up?

Those part numbers don't work on Subaru Of America dealer system if anybody was going to try a local dealer in the USA give up on that.

Part number on the ebay listing for future reference is SUSPA C16-06389

Measure your old one for me. My catalog shows a 698CBR with these dimensions. 22 13/16 x 12 15/16" x 1 1/4" If you want it I can get it for $198 plus shipping. This is a brass, high end unit.

The last one I worked with, the regulator was a real pain to get to and under the intake runners on the left side. My gut says the only place that will be able to get you one is a dealer, so if you are sure its bad, order one so you know what it looks like and go from there. You might actually have to remove the intake manifold to replace it, I recall the technician next to me at the dealer doing one and having a lot of the stuff in the engine compartment out to get to it.

Remove the engine since its your first time doing shim on bucket adjustments. And without the dealer tool, you are going to have to remove the cams to adjust the valves. Use an impact driver to break the bolts loose on the cam caps. The heads strip very easily. Be sure to have a very precise and small torque wrench for the reinstallation and pre-lube the cams as well they can seize real easily.

Are you saying the lapping compound was left on the valve and not wiped off by the technician that did the valve job? That would certainly let the heat not disburse wouldn't it?

They sell the clutches and steels for just the rear output section. I just priced it and the Duty Solenoid C the other day for a 96 and it was about 300 or so for all the parts. Also order a tube of "Fuji Bond", the Orange Silicone and use it to seal the rear section to the back of the main case. They sell a gasket, but this actually seals better IMO. Same on the pan, I use this instead. The surgery takes about 3 hours the first time you do it, and about 45 minutes the 2nd. I just replaced the rear section on the 96 one in about 20 minutes but I am a certified (ex) Subaru tech.

Cool, good to see you. Try doing a search too, lots of stuff has been covered but if you can't find it just say you tried to find it and couldn't, people will be more helpful that way.

If the valve covers are leaking I would replace them, and check the cam caps to make sure they haven't backed off. If anybody has been in the engine to do head gaskets, etc they may have messed up the threads in the front caps and they may have walked out a little bit. If they aren't leaking this is a little more frustrating to check as the grommets, spark plug gaskets and valve cover gasket are a little spendy.

Can someone link a thread from the SVX forum here on the alarm please?

Id like a soft topper (for my Tacoma). I don't see the point in a topper for a Baja, I would just buy an Outback if I wanted to use it that way.