ShawnW

Fine with me, that thing seems like the ultimate vintage "Subaru".

Are you saying you want factory large valve EA81 heads, or a set that a machine shop has replaced the seats with larger ones? I can provide the first, not the 2nd.

Contact Wild Westy in Boulder, CO. He does terrific work, very detail oriented. I would ship the entire van, harness, and engine to him and let him complete it.

The dealer sells that little harness piece and its not terribly expensive. As noted, it has a tab that is hidden. Needs to be pressed toward the center of the connector.

Correct when I went thru their site. I have a rebuilt MWE in stock if you want one.

Probably the positive battery wire or terminal is corroded, as stated above feel for warm spots or just replace the battery cable.

Its not your computer it was the server. This is fixed now.

Take them to the laundromat?

Snap-On has a socket with a magnet built in in 12MM shallow. Mine has installed over 250 knock sensors and looks like new. Their swivel impacts are a must have. I have 10, 12, 14, 17 and have warrantied them 5 times on the small ones and 4 on the big ones over the past 5 years and they are damn durable. The number of times warrantied isn't a mark of the quality, just how hard I am on them.

I highly doubt it is absolutely fixed on either of these but the frequency is likely to be going down. I look at these as a maintenance issue. Perform the HG replacement with the timing belt and you are only looking at around 5 hours of extra labor to do the head gaskets, and you likely need valve cover gaskets and seals as well. Packed and priced as a package, its really not that bad especially if you set aside $1000 for a leaky day.

I talked to him today, he hasn't been able to get a hold of the lady and buy it.

After driving 4 speeds, then driving a 5 more regularly I think you will find that it isn't that you will forget to shift the Outback to 5th as much as you will try to shift the Brat into 5th.

Crossing fingers for you that one is good!

Gotta be able to pass emissions and not overheat on the Dyno in Boulder County. If you want me to come look at it with you let me know.

I just did a search with my wholesale account at Performance Radiator. They show that part (Heater core)interchanges in a ton of other cars including: 2001 Nissan Xterra with 2.4 or 3.3L engine Acura CL or TL from 2000 1997 Infiniti QX4 I think I would try the Acura or Nissan dealer and see if they have a gasket for it. I can get the PS Pump Bearing for a Subaru from Nissan with a cross reference part number I use for example, but Subaru doesn't sell the bearing.

Quite often I just pull the engine and the transmission as one piece and put them back in together. Its a little awkward but after a couple times I have gotten really good at it. I also have a trans jack but its huge, big enough for a Semi Truck transmission. I like having it around but not enough to utilize it often.

I found a used Hitachi carb in my stash today, I think it came from an 84 EA81 but I think the choke is probably the same. Its riveted on so we would have to drill and rivet it back to yours. 6 pack of Corona if you want to come try it.

I would be happy to take a look at it if you are in Colorado.

You have verified power at the choke as well, like with a test light, etc? I have a used weber carb, would have to get an adapter plate, etc to make the rest of a "kit".

You definately need to figure out if the choke is working on the carb you have right now. It could be as simple as the fuse being blown for the choke circuit. Switching carbs wouldn't help that as well, the Weber needs a power wire to the choke too.

I can supply rebuilt engines, contact info on my website below. I would recommend Ea81 engines with Ea82 SPFI setups installed on them, or weber carbs installed on them. Both are very reliable and cost about the same to build-the weber would be a new carb, adapter, etc, the SPFI would be used parts but they are very reliable.

Could have sent me the camshaft back when you wanted the shortblock. DOH. Valve job too.

Might be time to have a little mini meet again?

When I paint them I make a chalk mark on the tire that is dead on with the valve stem, then deflate and press the wheel down hard until you can tuck something between the bead and the tire, then reinflate slightly so it beads again. Spray away, then remove and put the tire back in line with the chalk mark. This should keep the tire from being out of balance. An old thin dish towel, thin cardboard, newspaper, etc can be used if you are careful.

I would sell the car as well. If it was a rare car I would keep it but otherwise there is no reason to keep it unless you are upside down in it. There isn't a friend or family member you could loan the car to for a monthly fee just to keep it insured, moving, and honestly preserved better than a garage can do?