ShawnW

Crossing fingers for you that one is good!

Gotta be able to pass emissions and not overheat on the Dyno in Boulder County. If you want me to come look at it with you let me know.

I just did a search with my wholesale account at Performance Radiator. They show that part (Heater core)interchanges in a ton of other cars including: 2001 Nissan Xterra with 2.4 or 3.3L engine Acura CL or TL from 2000 1997 Infiniti QX4 I think I would try the Acura or Nissan dealer and see if they have a gasket for it. I can get the PS Pump Bearing for a Subaru from Nissan with a cross reference part number I use for example, but Subaru doesn't sell the bearing.

Quite often I just pull the engine and the transmission as one piece and put them back in together. Its a little awkward but after a couple times I have gotten really good at it. I also have a trans jack but its huge, big enough for a Semi Truck transmission. I like having it around but not enough to utilize it often.

I found a used Hitachi carb in my stash today, I think it came from an 84 EA81 but I think the choke is probably the same. Its riveted on so we would have to drill and rivet it back to yours. 6 pack of Corona if you want to come try it.

I would be happy to take a look at it if you are in Colorado.

You have verified power at the choke as well, like with a test light, etc? I have a used weber carb, would have to get an adapter plate, etc to make the rest of a "kit".

You definately need to figure out if the choke is working on the carb you have right now. It could be as simple as the fuse being blown for the choke circuit. Switching carbs wouldn't help that as well, the Weber needs a power wire to the choke too.

I can supply rebuilt engines, contact info on my website below. I would recommend Ea81 engines with Ea82 SPFI setups installed on them, or weber carbs installed on them. Both are very reliable and cost about the same to build-the weber would be a new carb, adapter, etc, the SPFI would be used parts but they are very reliable.

Could have sent me the camshaft back when you wanted the shortblock. DOH. Valve job too.

Might be time to have a little mini meet again?

When I paint them I make a chalk mark on the tire that is dead on with the valve stem, then deflate and press the wheel down hard until you can tuck something between the bead and the tire, then reinflate slightly so it beads again. Spray away, then remove and put the tire back in line with the chalk mark. This should keep the tire from being out of balance. An old thin dish towel, thin cardboard, newspaper, etc can be used if you are careful.

I would sell the car as well. If it was a rare car I would keep it but otherwise there is no reason to keep it unless you are upside down in it. There isn't a friend or family member you could loan the car to for a monthly fee just to keep it insured, moving, and honestly preserved better than a garage can do?

I dont think they lose the exhaust noise unless they use the later model Y-pipe like 95 and up (94 and up Impreza) have.

1996 Outback with Manual Transmission because it has a slightly more powerful 2.2L engine, and refinements, appearance package, and clearance of the Outback.

Remember, backspacing/offset is a concern here and many of our wheels are hubcentric. There are so many Subaru wheels out there for cheap just be patient and be willing to pay shipping.

I might just have to get out there somewhere for a mud event. Dry gravel vs mud almost makes the two look like AutoX vs RallyX.

There was a tentative Oregon event in Sportscar mentioned this past month I think. Miller Motorsports Park is near Tooele so I think that has to be it. Its only 20 miles from SLC or so. (Close enough a fellow CORX competitor was willing to flat tow me with a strap back to SLC). In my opinion the surfaces are pretty similar in gravel type but Miller is bladed perfectly flat and Fountain doesn't get that sort of treatment since its a Truck Driving school and not a raceway. Miller is an amazing complex and venue but I still like racing at Fountain better. It just feels like it has RallyX soul and isn't trying too hard. With Gravel rally tires either should be fine for you. Medium to Hard compound is best with a lot of sidewall strength as Fountain usually has a course that is tough with lots of tight turns (unless somebody lame from another region designs the course.--end small rant, but honestly if you let the guys get really good at gear changes, tight turns, etc and then give them nothing but huge sweeping drift turns and not so technical stuff at the National event its kinda annoying). Guys that run last years snow tires find themselves with slicks in about 4 events from what I have seen.

Moved to historic. Assuming its a 70's model which may be a mistake but 50-50 chance.

Theres an arrow pointing at 1 bolt/screw hole. Put thread locker on that one. If its a brand new stamped one with new screws from the dealer it should have a sealant on that screw already and its a different color than the others.

I am working with MWE Axles to bring you a deal thru my company RetroRoo. Sale offer: I know many of us have project cars that we either don't drive really often or that we are in the process of working on right now. This time of year I spend a lot of time and money on my projects because I don't have a lot of customer work to do. So right now, if you send me your old axle up front, I will get you a rebuilt MWE axle for $10 off the regular prices. This really helps me out in getting you the correct axle back to you, and keeps you from having to pay a core charge at all. Core charges are a necessary evil but if we avoid the process it saves me and the builder a lot of work and saves you some upfront cost. Front Axles: 1973-1999= $85.00 each now $75 2000-2004=$95.00 now $85 Shipping is $35 for one and $55 for 2. Email for larger quantities shipping prices. I use FedEx Ground which is pretty fast usually around 2-4 days or less. I can usually do rear axles for the same prices if they are EA series but email or call for details before sending a rear. If your old one is really destroyed and not rebuildable I may need a day or two extra but for the most part we have immediate or next day turn around. I accept: Money Orders Credit Cards (Visa/MC preferred) Paypal I can accept a credit card over the phone, money order can be sent with your old axle, and I can do paypal but I would prefer not to for this sale. I also have 1 ea81 front ready to go out the door if somebody I have previously transacted with wants to send the core afterwards I can do that. This sale is good thru the end of February. After that regular prices resume but you can always order one from me. Denver area locals I can install them for $60 and obviously no core charges apply for installed axles. Call for an appointment, normally installed in 30-60 minutes.

What he said, they have been real reasonably priced for me as well. Around Denver we have a lot of Hispanic owned tire shops that will mount and balance for less than $8 a wheel too so learn how to point or a little Spanish and get to it.

I could send you a used piston if you want pretty cheap. Need to know which bore its for meaning is it an A or B size piston and what year EJ22 it is for.

Yeah I went last year to the Miller Motorsports Venue Regional, was a long ride back after I developed a rod knock and had to tow my WRX home. I believe I was in 1st after two runs but I won't bring that up too strongly since that may have been the demise of the engine.

Thats kindof a neat idea!