ShawnW

Looks good, especially for a bathroom photo booth job.

Not the one on the front of the bolt, the one on the center of the bracket. Look from the left or right fender side across the top of the bracket.

Sweet! Not that I will see any money.

One I came up with at the junkyard about 10 years ago after I forgot a chain. I go all the way around the heads if possible but if you are at home with a chain use the Alt/AC bracket, it should have a hole through it, and as stated before the Right Rear above the bellhousing bolt opposite the starter. You can always take a bolt and a washer and thread it thru a hole on the chain and torque the bolt down.

Can you email me a photo of them? I might want them if you are willing to ship them to me on my FedEx account. shawn@retroroo.com

They are a little too long.

Kennedy Engineering or KEP.

I have seen a lot of the older model ones ripped off but agree not the newer ones. I think the tow truck guys don't use them mostly because they have small diameter holes to thread chains and cables thru.

Anybody want these?

I have had pretty good luck with those on EJ20 WRX engines here when customers request them. Unless requested though, I use Genuine Subaru only.

When you performed the wiring repair did you verify that you didnt get any shielding for the wire touching the actual wire? Its sort of like Coax cable.

Are you really going to argue this? 1. If you need to tow a car, the tow hooks are not adequate for anything other than securing the car to a trailer or flatbed truck and even then I have never seen a tow truck driver actually use them, they use larger components like the trailing and leading arms, control arms, etc to strap the car down. 2. The logic you are suggesting implies that Subaru hasn't thought this out. You are pretty far from being a Japanese engineer or an employee of Subaru of America. When they find a fault in a vehicle they have to come up with a solution that every dealer in the country is capable of fixing, in a timely manner, while you are in the waiting room. A fix that is simple, effective, cost effective, and not going to require them to put every car they built from year A to year b back thru government, insurance, etc crash safety testing. Most of the tow hooks I saw prior to the surgery were scraped very badly and rusting not from corrosion, but from people grinding them against the ground and objects. In other words, there was bare, open metal here in the first place and slicing it off isn't making the car rust any faster or slower than before. 3. You mentioned they need to spend more time in R+D. Do you know what R+D costs? How much are you willing to pay for a Legacy, or even worse SVX that was already VERY expensive when new? 4. Have you seen the in house bulletin for the tow hook slicing, and the follow ups to it in tech tips and other dealer only directions? It was advised that vehicles in the rust belt get a light coating of undercoating or flat black spray paint. Most of the ones I saw didn't ever get it but I wasn't working at a dealer in the rust belt. You are making an assumption that every car didn't get this treatment which is likely not true.

For what? I have a used set for a 99 Outback but there are variations over the years.

My parts manual doesnt show a set just individual locks.

Yes.

Last time I did exchange rate, shipping, etc it came to $1000 but the nice thing is you can actually stop, find parts for the car later, and the rear ebrake is pretty darn cool. My 83 is sitting in the driveway tonight with 2009 WRX wheels, 2000 2.5RS front brakes, outback rear brakes, impreza struts.....

Point to Denver, crash on my couch, and head home!

Not all shops are crooks. It only takes 1 bad apple to make all of them look bad but there are some great shops out there. I take great offense to this comment even though I know you aren't talking specifically about me. If you can fix your car yourself by all means do it but not everybody can. I have had numerous cars towed to me where a do it yourselfer tried to fix something themselves and made it far worse, spent an entire day on something that is quick for me, etc. The wear indicator on a brake pad can come off. Some are just slid onto the side of a pad and most new brake pads only have one indicator per axle on the Subarus. You can be pretty low on brake pad and not have it squeel but nobody here can speculate any better than visually looking at your car. I agree with GD here, they should have just removed the brake pads on one caliper and showed you.

I wouldn't do it. The 4-runner is closer. I think a Tacoma V6 4door with long bed would do a better job since it is longer. Or of course a Tundra. It all depends on how often it will see towing duties and how often it won't. If its once to the lake and once back a year it might be fine but why risk it? The struggling up and down the hills might be worth it for the gas savings the rest of the year not having a huge engine and gas tank to fill. Its still exceeding the rating and if you have to slam on the brakes or make an evasive maneuver of some kind its going to be very dangerous.

I think 85 Ea82 Carb is worst...when it has cruise, ac and ps.

Air suction valve silencers. Heres a start on blocking it off. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107958&highlight=Quarter Honestly I would just replace the reed valve and leave it factory but if you are going to put a weber on it block it off.

Start with some basic troubleshooting. Verify spark on both sides of the coil pack. He says it eventually dies. When it does will it restart or do you have to wait a while, etc?

Take a drive down to Westminster if you want to take a look at my car. Just got the 5 lug done, deciding on the front lift kit height still, have the 2.2L swap in for years.

And that is fine up to 2004. After that you have to be careful what you put in.

The reason it doesnt sound right is that a 2005 has a bolt in wheel bearing assembly. That price is right. Pull the axle, 4 14mm bolts hold the bearing into the knuckle. Tap with hammer on outside to drive it out. Line up the 4 bolts and slowly pull the bearing into the knuckle with the threads and light soft mallet taps on the inside.