ShawnW

Not a bolt in if thats what you are asking. The seats are about it for bolt in.

That is the plug but shown on an EJ series engine. Its the same size and removed with the same tool. The dealer here usually stocks the block heaters, as described above its $27 USA. I haven't ever seen the brand you linked to but it looks similar to the ones I have installed here. For the most part I think these are a waste of time. A Subaru with 5w30 will start in really cold temps and heats up in a matter of about 5 minutes of driving or less.

Closing thread. 1. New users: Please try to use the search function. If you did please mention that you did but came up with further questions. 2. Veteran Users: Flaming a new user for not using search is a current but new infraction here. If you don't want to help by: 1. Answering the question. 2. Pointing them to a thread that has the info they want. Then just hit the back button and go read something else. I will award infraction points for this. Everyone: Name calling, offensive language, being a jerk.... Again, infraction points will be awarded. Get enough points you can earn yourself a real time out or a permanent ban. We are here to learn, help others, and "play well with others" There are plenty of places you can go post and be a tool and treat people poorly.

I can order you a crossbred performance kit. Full 5 lug conversion including front struts, all brakes, rear e brake conversion. This is the really class way to convert. http://www.crossbredperformance.com/

Not quite that simple. The seat frame is welded to the body. I recommend: Remove the whole frame at the welds, weld that to bars and put captive nuts in that part. Then put large washers, grade 10 bolts, etc thru from the bottom to bolt it down. The headrests mounts. The 86/87 has a metallic silver bar across the back window. One might assume these are the same mount as the headrests. They aren't. I recommend removing mounts from another brat for this as well, welding them in. Insurance liability warning: 1. Add jumpseats at your own risk. They might not be covered on your insurance in the event of an accident because they weren't original equipment. They were banned and it doesn't take much research to figure this out. 2. BE SURE TO PUT THE SEATBELTS IN and I would put them on the frame with the seats so you can remove them as well. These corrode and seize so being able to remove the seats and belts and put them in dry storage is nice. 3. Use common sense with passengers in the rear. Theres a good reason they don't install these in vehicles anymore, a few bad apples ruined it for the rest of us. Consider getting the mounts for the steps on the side of the brat put in as well, especially if you have a little rust in this area. Cut the section off with a saw and weld in with good diligence to rust prevention.

No wife/girlfriend living in the house I assume by this statement? Most would kill for that offense.

They fit in my 83 Wagon with 5 lug conversion. I need to test drive the car and haven't got it back together but they fit sweet and I don't see why they wouldn't be just fine. Ill get some testing done before we complete transaction and get the price firmed up.

Which should read I spent $40 on gas, $50 on the topper and my time.

Old post! I don't know who the mfg was sorry.

If its a dealer one its usually on the other side of the bottom of the shortblock, on the other side of the oil pan. The plug is bigger than that one but has the same size socket hole in it. These can be pretty tough to remove sometimes. Its a 14MM hex if you don't have the right socket don't try removing it.

Pretty common to have to cut those actually. Depends on what you need but price a new bolt, etc before you fight it too hard.

In almost perfect shape I could justify 250 for one, especially a GEM top that isn't fiberglass but metal instead, maybe even 300 if the color matched the Brat.

It doesnt fit inside the frame rails but people have notched them, welded in new material and put the 2.2L in then. They do the same on Ea81 body vehicles when putting 4 cam 2.5, 2.0, etc engines in as well. Thread here, broken images but good descriptions all the same. Might contact the poster to see if they have the images they can reload or email you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88632

As soon as I find some more shafts like mine I will get a set made and a price. Guess right now is $120/ea, exchange for any stock Subaru axle. I am working with MWE on getting these so they are sweet axles. My inner cups aren't legacy spline but that can be switched very easily. Pretty enough to put on the kitchen counter.

I have 2 pairs and 2 spares one set is NOS in box..

It eventually died, or it stumbled, or it just plain kept running perfectly? I highly doubt its the computer unless its a Turbo EFI model but even then. If its carb'd the computer has nothing to do with it running or not just how it runs. I would lean to the ignition/fuel pump relays if its the 3rd option but I haven't ever heard of a Brat doing that. Is it a Turbo? All the turbos are 83/84 but some people misread the build date and its possible a couple got carried over to 85 year I suppose but its unlikely.

I think they owe you 10 wheel studs and 10 chrome acorn nuts from Subaru.

Thanks again. I have my 5.0L WRX right now.

Front is 25" Rear is 23.5" and replaces the short section as well so it goes all the way to the hard line straight to the rear disc caliper.

Does that have a flat 4 engine in it?

Might price/call a Subaru dealer and see if you can buy the airbag test harness used to diagnose bad airbags. We used to remove one, plug in the harness and road test the car for a few miles. If the airbag light was on and now off that meant the rest of the system, harness, etc was good just the airbag itself bad. Otherwise you could unplug the airbag control module and not have airbags on the entire car. None of the replies are liable for anything on this thread by the way. Do any solution, at your own risk and realize the dangers/precautions beforehand.

Which transmission did you end up with? Legacy if I read right but like me I bet you change your mind as you go with the build. :-) I have a 5MT D/R in mine right now so I have ea81/ea82NA spline axle shaft inboard and Impreza/Legacy/Forester outboard. The hard part is the shafts I need to find more.

If you don't have the front axles solved let me know I can get you a set made here.

Ive got my 4" lift ones for sale from my ea81 wagon and I think they would work. Marketplace has the ad.

Post a photo of the routing of your fuel lines you may have one hooked up wrong.