ShawnW

The biggest hurdle is finding a good hose company to make the custom hoses. After that its pretty easy. Compressor to custom lines to original evaporator and condensor is usually easiest. Putting a 134 receiver/drier is also a good idea.

Sorry but this is wrong. He listed the correct fluids. I am certified by Subaru on transmissions both auto and manual up to 2009. They put in a fluid that they shouldn't have put in. Now you really should have the trans flushed, at a dealer, to get it all 100% Subaru HP fluid. It may be hard to find a dealer that has a dedicated flush machine or is willing to do this but this is the absolute best fix. Also, get their JUNK AT filter off your car and frankly, stop using Jiffy Lube. I have seen more screw ups by quick lube places on Subarus than I care to count.

Red Cone or bust. Still a goal for me. Mine is in the garage being resurrected this month. Stop by and check out the progress next time you have a few minutes. Good to see you here again!

Hi, hit me up if you need help/advice I am a half hour away.

Guys and gals. Please ask more follow up questions or link to similar threads if you want to point at common problems/solutions. Relax and read the posts closer. Jumping to conclusions or known/common problems is getting a little fast trigger happy around here. While you could be right the likelyhood is pretty low. He just put an engine in the car and then promptly had a problem with the AWD system?!? How about something unplugged, pan crushed because the guy jacked the car up with the transmission pan, etc. Why didn't anybody suggest pulling the code out of the transmission? Fluid level, condition. Check engine light on? Miles on the transmission and car?

Agreed but they are 15" and many new model brakes won't work with a 15" wheel. I agree you could weld the beam but I would put reinforcement bars all the way across if I did that, simply welding might result in a weak spot in the center.

Good luck. Careful in those flip flops.

To clarify, might not be necessary: If your check engine light is on...you probably have an emissions code for evap system leak or similar and its probably this filler neck is rotted out.

He scraps a lot for sure. It isn't what they do to them which I can't describe but better what he doesn't do. He doesn't machine anything beyond where it should be, use small balls in large cages, crappy grease, crap boots, etc. I think the other advantage is he knows the difference in the models and only does Subaru axles and sends the right axle in the first place.

Please don't bump a post that has replies to it. Reply with follow up questions or something but don't just bump it. The suggestions above are all very valid. Missed diagnosis of wheel bearings being bad instead of axles is clearly a possibility here. I can get you MWE axles if you want to try those. I think they are the best and I have watched them being redone, I guarantee most of the re builders aren't as meticulous as his shop.

The 2008 and newer are said to not work but I haven't verified yet.

You replaced the one with a blade type single wire sensor or the plug type with 2 wires going to it and a brown electrical connector?

I like the real crush rings. I buy them in bulk thru my shop. The Fumoto valve is pretty neat but at $25 for every Subaru I have it adds up.

As mentioned above the stubs clip in. As long as you use the same generation of trans it will work fine, a 4spd stub won't work in place of a 5spd one but the stubs can be swapped. I have this very thing on an RX trans in my storage unit that I built for my ea81 car.

They do unless they were warrantied at the dealer which is pretty common.

Its not the cover that would break its the clips on the air filter housing.

Mick and I put an 84 steering wheel on a 78 Brat and vice versa, thats as old as I ever tried. I want to say we had a minor issue with the horn contacts one way but not the other but it was something that could be overcome easily as I recall.

That intake is sweet I have seen just about everything for these and never saw that before!

I use only a dealer belt, it should be a little loose new, 10MM deflection pretty typical, then when it breaks in a little tighten to about 6MM.

I think the regular 2.5 is a great engine and agree that is a very nice looking, driving, and handling Outback/Legacy. Plan on head gaskets and timing belt every 100K going into it and you will not be disappointed. I also love the 2005 GT 5 speed Legacy Turbo edition if you can drive a stick you will LOVE that car.

Not a very frequently done project at this point.

I would have to look at a wiring diagram to be sure of this and I think you are making a large assumption. Just one ignition on wire being pinned to a different position, inhibitor switch lacking, etc would certainly cause a no start situation. I think you should obtain, borrow, etc an OBDII scanner. Put the factory ECM into the car and put the key to ignition on. See if it will communicate even. If it won't I would assume its fried. If it will start troubleshooting no start. For this I would pull a plug wire off the coil pack and see if you are getting any spark.

That is looking very sharp!

Its like a little puppy. Anybody that doesn't like it isn't worth liking. I think the saddest part is we never got another Subaru van in the states again.

The part numbers you were looking for are in the EA to EJ PDF file.