ShawnW

I helped build that car originally, was almost 5 years ago now. I bought the whole setup at Colo Auto Parts including the engine I helped rebuild and the piece of junk wiring harness that I really need to fix. We used a legacy 4.11 trans and it was very fun to drive. Center diff was bad and I think it probably bit the dust.

Not finding too many people that have done this. I did it a long time ago in a hatch but I can't remember what radiator I used, fans, mods to the car required, etc. Anybody done it? Dimensions on the Legacy one look about an inch too tall at least but maybe a Forester or Impreza one? Aluminum vs copper/brass versions?

That was so much fun!

This product needs to be shaken VERY thoroughly before pouring it in. While I agree its chunky it needs to be clarified that its more effective if poured as syrup in nature as possible. Shake for a full minute, add to a cold engine--to the radiator itself not the coolant overflow bottle. As stated its chunky and you don't want it clogging up the hose from the radiator to the overflow bottle. Its intended to be used to prevent not repair head gasket problems. I have of course used it to band aid a customers car until they can afford head gaskets but in the end they are leaking usually.

They will let you buy it back for what they think they can get at salvage auction in your area. This varies a lot. Here $1200 isn't unusual as the used parts market here is incredible. I hope you can buy your car back for $300 or less but don't assume you can.

Not picking on you, definately confused. The build date on the car is the key here. I can't tell from here. Its stamped on the Vin plate usually on that car it would be in the drivers door opening down low by the edge of the rear of the door opening and the front of the rear door.

Pull the drainplug out of the front diff and check for metal on the drain plug. Post a picture of it if you can. Does this mechanic know Subaru's?

You have been reading! The 2.2 swap is going to take at least $2000 to do. It involves a lot of little things, but for you its going to virtually require a complete Turbo Legacy parts car. The STI wheels are at 600 or so last I checked. Rhino Liner probably $500 to do professionally Paint Job at a minimum $500 and sky is the limit. Not sure what you are doing for a fender swap. Headliner can easily run over $100 to have done. Power Locks, I am not sure this has been done but I have been thinking about it. Power Windows can be done but you need to find a Coupe to get the window regulators and motors out of, switches, harness, etc. I hope you like wiring. The Turbo brat has plenty in it stock, throw some legacy wiring in, power window harness, stereo, CB, front lights. The wiring alone easily takes a week your first time doing it and will consume an entire living room floor or huge workbench. These posts make these swaps look easy. They can be after many of them, years experience, nice work area, good weather (Junkyard/parts car time), and parts availability. Your going to need a nice set of tools, 2-3 factory manuals, and a lot more reading than you might like. I have friends that have spent $5000 doing half that list to an Impreza and it took them a year and they are pretty talented people with a good job to pay for the project.

I have seen some with manual adjusters on that year and model and yes I would adjust them.

Pretty cool but its hard to show off a stereo install with a you tube video. Sorry.

Yeah it is! He should sponsor his dad!

Cougar is one of the best at electrical on these forums! Id be checking the pins on the alternator connector. Does the battery charge light illuminate when you key it to on? If you have a scan tool does it connect to the ECM ok? I use this to verify ignition on connections to many things at once and its proven useful to me.

Theres no reason not to exactly match it thats a very common car. That doesn't mean you couldn't do so temporarily to verify it fixes a problem but it could certainly create emissions, drive ability, gas mileage and check engine lights that would haunt you. That part number is superceded by 22611AC271 so that one works as well. Using car-part.com I found one that matches at a salvage yard. Randy's Auto Parts and Towing USA-WA(Okanogan) E-mail 1-800-553-4466 1996 Engine Computer Subaru Legacy 22611 AC271 A 6943 $100 Lots of others on there too if you do a search you can pick one closer or whatever makes it easier better for you. This was one of the few with the actual part number on the description.

May have damaged all kinds of suspension parts, links, etc . Could be ABS sensors and the like messing around too. Don't drive it and let them decide if they are going to total it, etc. Rental car if covered by insurance for sure. If its not your fault demand exact replacement and hold your ground on the value of the car. Show receipts, miles, etc and make sure they return you to the same or better vehicle you were in before the accident.

You might look into the 2005 Baja springs they raise the car quite naturally. I try to avoid strut spacers until required as they can create alignment problems if not built properly. Looks like its a build date difference on your part numbers. One kind is for For models before 5/02 only and the other is after. TireRack.com has pretty good prices on them usually.

I think I would search car-part for a used one with low miles. They tend to be pretty tough when the fluids are serviced. Banging could be as easy as the front differential being bad and those are pretty easy bearings to change out.

I can't wait to add photos of mine. Im using the crossbred performance kit but am in the process of deciding if I want my car lifted anymore and trying to fit my tires if at all possible without the lift kit at least in the front half. Looking harder by the second though. The rear was a snap, I can't believe how easy it was. Jeff in Australia that makes these kits makes a wonderful product that I am certain people are going to want here. Everything that has been "difficult" about it has been me trying to modify the car while doing the kit installation which really complicated everything.

My turbo brat is running factory components with 134A. My VW Vanagon with 2.2L swap liked the Subaru compressor. I have done a 2.2 swap for a customer on an 88 RX and that car had BETTER A/C after I was done than brand new according to the customer. You will need to be very careful not to overcharge it, and I highly recommend putting a Receiver drier that is 134 compatible in while you are at it. I did it with the factory legacy one with no issues on the 88 RX.

Beautiful car congrats. I love my 2009 WRX hatch, same color. You might be surprised how much of a target that huge STI wing makes a car. Lots of hood trades going on out here for years. I like the hatch for this reason too, not quite as flashy.

Mine scare the ____ out of me when I slam on the brakes in my WRX. Should be fine in any GL.

Subaru of America covers parts and labor on all dealer performed repairs for 1 year unlimited miles. Not sure what Canada does though. Might be worth driving across the border if the warranty is better LOL.

I have seen intake leaks cause those 2 codes but this is more common on Impreza and Foresters from the 98-00 era that have two air filter boxes (well what looks like it). Scenerio 1 is that the air filter box isn't engaged into the tabs on the bottom and allows an air leak. Scenerio 2 is that some idiot has taken the air box spacer out and put a 2nd air filter on the car. If you can get a copy of the 96 Factory manual it will tell you how to troubleshoot that code(s). I would start with the 400 as that is less common. I would also clean the EGR valve and verify all the hoses going to the EGR solenoid are in place and not misrouted or broken. That or get a new EGR valve. The 420 codes I fixed at the dealer I replaced the cats every time and never had a comeback.

Was yours apple cored or just gummed up? I did this fix, and highly recommend the vac modulator fix, both of which I have done at least 4 times over the past few years.

Definitely make the seller send you the correct item or money back, etc. Thats not correct information. I agree I would try to find fittings that are 5/8". Its probably fine but why take the risk. I personally don't like these devices.

Nevermind: I found the drawings in the 83 Factory Manuals.