ShawnW

Timeserts instead of Helicoils. Trust me guys. I switched over and never look back. So much easier to get right the first time and have never had one fail like the coils. For a lasting repair I wouldn't even try tapping and longer bolts. Once the integrity is gone you need to trust this so you don't waste all your efforts in sealing the engine. Measure the current depth of the hole with a micrometer and get inserts that match that closely. Slightly shorter is ok but as close as you can ideally. These lock into the aluminum and won't come back out. https://www.belmetric.com/ts1610-m6x10-kit-p-1499.html?zenid=2u4365hdiqmmufk2jorgoibm76&cPath=217_218_228

Why did you replace the wires or coilpack? Do the spark plug seals asap. They cause a lot of misfires and strange behavior and aren't going to be a lot easier to do while the timing belt service is being performed.

That kyb 341065 only fits sedan. The wagon strut is discontinued at my supplier.

Check with Subaru and verify that there isn't a reflash available. Also verify that the transmission code matches the one on the VIN plate under the hood.

Welcome! A very worthy surf board hauler.

Definitely don't remove all of it on a windshield seal. A little left behind is absolutely fine.

52.8 foot pounds.

Don't forget the seals too. I have those in stock.

That' can be confusing for sure. Its how far the belt drive is out from the edge of the pump itself. What car exactly?

It was at my shop for a few months. The car is solid body and rather neat. The swap had a lot left to do. We didn't do anything other than an estimate to finish it. And it was a lot of labor and not a lot of parts. If I remember- about 90-10 in percentage. Estimated around 4100 in labor left but I did pad some in for incidentals as I have never swapped a 70's car before and a lot of shops charge extra if you start something and they finish it....and for good reason its almost as much work if not more to figure out what the previous mechanic did and verify all their work. This would absolutely be worth the money in my opinion. Dirk is a member here but I can't remember what his screen name is.

Bummer. Oh well. Just pull the heads and have a machine shop replace and lap in new valves. Or DIY if you know how of course.

NO. But you are trying and that's all that matters. Phase 2 refers to the version of the engine. In 1990 they came out with the EJ22 and they made that basic type of engine and head type from then up to about 1998 or so. At that time they started using the newer engine called phase 2, which is the version they made from 1999 to about 2002 for the Ej22 and 1999 to about 2010 depending on the model of car for the 2.5. All it really equates to for you is that the bottom of the head has 1 exhaust port hole and the intake is of the phase 2 variety. You can switch the front of the exhaust on the car to a dual port and put an Ej25 phase 2 or Ej251 engine in it, or you can source a used Ej22 of similar variety again made from 99-02 or so. Can't go wrong with either but the Ej22 still sees less head gasket problems thru the entire life span....from 1990 to 2002 than the 2.5L engines. You will have a little difficulty in finding a used one of these and many are knocking like yours around the 130-180K range. Just be sure to save and use your intake manifold no matter what engine is swapped in so your engine computer and its sensors and devices all talk right.

Just an update. I have long since sold the car but I did put the Impreza 3.9 trans in it. And I didn't switch rear ends. And as indicated above-no problems. Today I disassembled the original trans. Now scrap metal. I was right-the case was trashed from the bearing slopping around and the throwout bearing kit that was installed would not come off. I counted teeth. 39 ring, 10 pinion or 3.90 ratio. Chart is, as indicated...wrong. Thanks everyone! Was able to help a guy out with a cheap used VIscous unit out of the box, save some parts for later, make a clutch alignment tool and a few bucks on aluminum recycling.

If it has a Corvair transmission bellhousing then you should be able to get a kit from Kennedy Engineered Products in Palmdale California. They do a lot of Vanagon ones and their quality is good. They did Corvair swaps before and as long as you go with a modern Subaru engine you should be fine. I'd use an SVX motor if you can source a complete donor car.

I have been just drilling out the stock mount and welding the proper mount in on my originally automatic cars. Small plate that the two bolts mount to comes out in about 20 minutes with a chisel and a spot weld drill bit at the yard.

Very cool video! Hope the trail doesn't get too washed out from all the water.

So Eric, this really is a trail and you didn't just decide to drive up the creek? I am sorry but I am getting a few doubters here.

The top of your radiator is essentially the recovery bottle. There is a tab inside the radiator that serves as the full mark on the radiator. When the cars were new they had a sticker under the hood to indicate this but most are long gone.

Wow sorry to hear you are having trouble here. How did you power each of the power feed wires to the ECM and the relays? It sounds like you have constant power to relays where they need to be switched and vice versa.

The 2nd cable is for the cruise control. When you pulled the engine did the torque converter come with it a little and leak some fluid? Maybe you just need a little more fluid to top it off?

Sound better with 2?

Keep yours, sell hers and drive one to Texas. The 2000 is a better car with a better engine IMO and that way you can both ride in 1 car, buy no plane tickets and only pay ownership transfer once on one car. Its just nicer to have a car already when you are trying to find another and move into a new place. Oh and stay in Oregon. Texas comments above-I agree with! And AWD is better on dry pavement too. More stable and it does rain there. Additionally you probably have to drive to visit family in a place where they have winter so maybe that is enough reason to have it too.

Has the car been tuned professionally on a dyno? I assume you have it on a basic stage 1 map? 19 PSI is awfully high if you haven't had a dyno tune done. Do you have an AF gauge so you know where you are in the stoichometric level? 14:1 goal and I bet you are real rich with those mods and have fouled plugs.

The crank keyway goes to 6:00 or down and when in that position on the edge of the whole gear is a notch. Don't use that triangle on the front edge of the gear use the notch on the back edge. It lines up with the notch in the oil pump on the top edge. This Ebay auction has the image the right way "up". http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-SUBARU-CRANKSHAFT-SPROCKET-GEAR-PRE-1999-13021aa091-/300446106618

I can send out an EJ pump that is a number 9 or 10 if you have a 6 or 7 unit on your car. I do this whenever I can on rebuilds for racing or heavy use car builds. Typically the 9/10's are found on 4 cam engines including the 96-99 Outbacks as well as the ones for WRX/STI mentioned. Nothing fancy for sure and agree with all above only screws coming loose.